Longtrack the 98 700 RMK???

[brushfit]

Should I move the skid back or add extensions? 136 now, goin to 151

 

[jgd]

To keep it simple you can add rail extensions and a tunnel extension. Years ago my buddy took his out to a 156" x 2" that worked out great for years. It sounds like a lot of extension, but there was never an issue. There are of course more involved options that include doing a drop and roll on the chain case, which would free up more room in the tunnel (the edge 7.92 chain case works great for that)... IMO I would not move the skid that far back, as your handling would be severly compromised. JMHO good luck

 

[wrtmani]

I asked this queation too a while back--here is the thread:

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=141349

The link referenced regarding setbacks is gone, but still good info.

Hope it helps!

 

[kenairmk]

I went rail and tunnel extensions on my 98 600 rmk, kept the stock gearing,works great.

 

[brushfit]

Thank you guys, for all the help!! I have a 98 mtn max that i moved the skid back to long track, but the RMK has a pretty good approach angle..hope I don't need smaller drivers, the track is only 2.25. Guess I don't like the thought of extensions, but they must work ok.

 

[kenairmk]

The SLP rail extensions are hard to beat. My buddy bent his rails jumping, the extensions were unhurt, his was set-up from a 121 to a 136.
I don't know if the 2-1/4 will fit with the stock drivers or not, but either way, you have a very capable sled, and I am sure you will have fun with it.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

On my 98 I used extensions to go to 2" x144 and made my own tunnel ext. Turned out great and was a huge improvement over the 136.
Left the stock gearing.
Also a 2" is all you can squeeze in the using the stock 9 tooth drivers. Actually had to fight to get the drivers over the track nubs. Once installed, it had about 1/2 - 3/4" clearance on the front heat exchanger. never had a problem with snow build up. Ran like this for several years.

 

[X2Freeride]

You need to understand what both are going to do first.


Moving the the skid back does give you the added track length, but it also changes the whole geometry and the balance of the sled, and also greatly increases steering pressure. Although its the cheaper way to to it its really not the best way as you cant setup the skid or the front end enough to compensate for the increased steering effort.


Extensions would be the better option as they use the stock mounting points keep the geometry of the sled the same and only require minor changes to the skid and front end to make the sled ride and handle the same.

Short of going to longer rails or a different skid extensions are your best option.

 

[brushfit]

Thanks to all for the input!! It can be fun to post a new topic just for the replies from all the experience here...I love to read what everyone else is doing and finding ways to improve without dumping tons of dollars...I will post some pics when I get a chance. I have been fortunate enough to be called back to work next week so don't know when I will get done..

 

[X2Freeride]

Thanks to all for the input!! It can be fun to post a new topic just for the replies from all the experience here...I love to read what everyone else is doing and finding ways to improve without dumping tons of dollars...I will post some pics when I get a chance. I have been fortunate enough to be called back to work next week so don't know when I will get done..

Right on man I agree. Keep up posted on what you do. Also post some pictures of it if you can. Always like to see what people are doing along with hearing about it.

 

[hightimes]

we took 156"x2" track and fit a 151" skid with big wheels { stock skid from 04 900 poo } into are 98 700 rmk. We bolted the front of the skid in to the stock location and made a drop bracket for the back of the skid.
Sled rides and handles like a champ,
This summers project is to lighten up the front end and find a set of slp twins