Loc-tite on Y-pipe bolts?

[94fordguy]

So I got to looking under the hood and noticed I got a missing y-pipe bolt again and oil all-over the place.... Time for a new set of y-pipe gaskets. With that in mind, do I need to use some loc-tite on the bolts and if so, red or blue?


I put a new lower bolt on the mag-side about a month ago when I discovered it was gone and tightened it as tight as I could get, now I noticed it is missing again and the top out-side bolt was loose. Never had a problem last year, but I can't remember if I put loc-tite on them or not as they do come with a standard lock-washer.

Also, is that a grade 8 bolt I can get from the hardware store or a grade 5?

Thanks

EDIT: Found the bolt laying under the motor, so it's fine... just need new gaskets and loc-tite or no loc-tite?

 

[Danbot]

Seth, I had a few come loose, or right out on me, I apply blue loctite whenever I take the Ypipe off now, and have not had an issue since. Red seems risky since the bolt threads into the aluminum cylinder... would hate to pull a thread out!!!!!
I don't think you need a high grade bolt for this application... but I can't seem to find a torque spec in the manual..? I'll keep looking

 

[94fordguy]

Thanks Dan, I found the bolt laying under the motor after some looking with the flashlight... just need to put it back in and some new gaskets... the motor may be a bit oily eek but oh well. Would a small leak from a bad gasket lean me out too much you think if I just put the bolt back in and tightened it down to ride tomorrow?

 

[Danbot]

Found some specs from the 06 manual.... 22ft-lb (30Nm) Don't think you need anything special for grade

 

[Danbot]

I say torque em up and ride that tractor!
I'm in a motel room in back-country BC right now anticipating tomorrows ride... we found 4 - 5 feet of pow in the trees haha, I cut a few trench's up to my shoulders. No pics from today, but tomorrow and the next day my cams will be out!

 

[94fordguy]

Nice!!!!!

Have a good time, and thanks Dan

 

[Z-Man]

Thanks Dan, I found the bolt laying under the motor after some looking with the flashlight... just need to put it back in and some new gaskets... the motor may be a bit oily eek but oh well. Would a small leak from a bad gasket lean me out too much you think if I just put the bolt back in and tightened it down to ride tomorrow?

Leak in the exhaust gasket shouldn't lean you out, but if it wasn't out for to long it may seal and be fine. Put it in with Blue loctite and ride it. Clean the oil off the best you can around it and check it after your ride to see if there is any oil leaking from the gasket. If not keep on riding it.

 

[GKR]

Here's what you need. Find them at your local nut and bolt supplier. They ARE the answer.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=2.16.37
Once I found them I use them on all my sleds and the buddies too. They flat out work. Engine gets too hot for Loctite to be super effective.

 

[94fordguy]

Here's what you need. Find them at you local nut and bolt supplier. They ARE the answer.
http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=2.16.37
Once I found them I use them on all my sleds and the buddies too. They flat out work. Engine gets too hot for Loctite to be super effective.

That's not a bad idea, thanks for the link. You know you're probably right on the loc-tite... I imagine those bolts probably get subjected to more heat than most of the rest of the bolts in the motor. I may have to look for those at the hardware store this week.

 

[Danbot]

Thanks for sharing, that is a COOL product!

 

[sw]

Just a heads-up, whenever ever the y-pipe comes off, check with straight edge across flanges, they like to warp, if so then flatten surface by draw filing or flat grind across with 6X48 belt sander, or something similar.

 

[FatBoyzfrenchy]

Nord-Lock os Disc-Lock

Nord-Lock or Disc-Lock is what I have been using for years and they WILL NOT come off with vibration, that's what they are built for.
They are pricey little buggers but once you put them on, you're done with that issue.
BTW locktite should not be used on exhaust bolts.

FBF.

 

[mountainhorse]

Here was a post I put up a while back about for the SKI DOO's with y pipe bolt problems...

The same goes for the 900 RMK with the exeception of the part numbers.
NOTE: Jan 16, 2011...I have Changed the part numbers and they are now correct for the 900 RMK (in this post)

Mountainhorse Posted 21 November 2006 - 08:50 AM
The 800R SKI DOO motor WILL loosen the exhaust bolts on the new ones just like the old 800's. They use the same fastners as the older 800's. This is especially true if you have disturbed them by removing them or periodically tightening them. A lot of the dealers are aware of the issues with the exhaust bolts and "checking" each one trying to avoid warranty issues and are making the problem worse by disturbing the bolts.

DO NOT USE LOCKTITE RED ON THESE FASTENERS!!! If you ever have to remove these you will have a mother of a time getting them out and will probably strip out the threads on the cylinders. Locking compounds on the soft aluminum of the threads around the exhaust ports is asking for trouble when removal time comes around (damaged Y-pipe, cylinder work, etc).

Use the NORDLOCK washers to secure these bolts. They will not fatigue with the heat and actually hold tighter when they get hot. They are resuable, easy to assemble and dissasemble and are not affected by oil.

There is no need to safety wire on the bolts especially with how tight it is in there. It makes threading and twisting the siezing wire a pain. Aircraft "allens" are pretty hard to find in M6 sizes but you can always drill your own with a bunch of cobalt bits if you have to go this route.

Change out the bolts to stainless steel socket cap screws [M6 x 20mm] and use the silver (nickle based) anti sieze on the threads so you dont have to deal with corrosion problems down the road as all exhaust bolts look like shyte after a while. This compound will not give you corosion problems. Don't use copper antisieze on the threads as this will promote galvanic corrosion with the aluminum and steel or stainless steel.

You can order all of these fasteners and the ball hex driver that will keep you from teaching your kids new words(***#@^&&&*###) when you try to remove the old ones and install the new. You can get them from McMASTER CARR The following are McMaster Carr part numbers. Anyone can order these parts with a credit card over the phone or online.

NOTE: Jan 16, 2011, I have changed the Part numbers to reflect the needs on the 900 RMK.

The NordLock washers in Stainless Steel are McMaster Carr # 91812A230 $7.93 per pack of 5 washers (you will need 2 packages)

The STAINLESS STEEL 316 grade socket head cap screws in 8mm x 1.25 are #91812A230 $8.04/25-pack

Nickle antisieze compound Part #91812A230 => $5.57 for 1/4 oz tube (4 sleds worth)

5mm extra long 6mm drive ball-hex driver Part #54185A24 => $15.18 each

You may be saying to yourself (since sledders are some of the cheapest bastiges on the face of the earth, me included) that that is some serious money for little washers and bolts... but these things ABSOULETLY work and will keep you riding and not wrenching. Go in on this stuff with your friends with 800's if you feel the need. If you've ever dropped anything under the motor on the REV's or RT's you will see the value in these "expensive" parts.

I have to give credit to REV*BARON for turning me on to these issues and the solution.

 

[Z-Man]

$7.50 per 5 pack now.

 

[mountainhorse]

AND the 900 RMK has different size fasteners holding the Y pipe than the Ski Doo ones pointed out above.

 

[diamonddave]

SW makes a good point about having flat surfaces. I always file any straight edges that use gaskets. On all the sleds I work on, I use red loctite and nordlocks on the y-pipe bolts. If you are a tuner and constantly are removing your y-pipe for inspection purposes, then I wouldn't bother with the loctite. If you aren't removing it often, then go with the Red loctite and nordlocks and be done with it. In fact, on the 900's, red loctite and a torque wrench is all you really need.

The main reason I use loctite on anything with gaskets is when you first install the bolt and torque to spec, after a while, the gasket will compress and now the the bolt is not at the same torque it was when you first installed it. This is why loctite is so important especially on those thick exhaust gaskets that compress a mile.

 

[mountainhorse]

I like to use the SLP metal gaskets..

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=19&productID=199

PN 090-25

 

[94fordguy]

Thanks for the input guys.... now I just have to get it done.... and clean up the mess under there....

 

[Z-Man]

I like to use the SLP metal gaskets..

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=19&productID=199

PN 090-25

wish I would have known about these before I ordered the stock ones.

 

[Z-Man]

Here was a post I put up a while back about for the SKI DOO's with y pipe bolt problems...

I just went down to ACE to see what they charge for these before I ordered them and mine are not the size you listed. I didn't notice before that the post was for Skidoo, so hopefully nobody else did the same thing and ordered bolts for a skidoo.

Mine are M8 x 25, 1.25 pitch. McMaster carr number would be 91292A148 $8.04 for 25

Wedge Lock number 91812A230 $7.93 for 5 pair