Left on the hill again! '07 600 RMK HO Electrical Problem

[Hillboy]

tighten your throttle cable if that does not work just unplug the kill switch. It sounds like you just have too much slop in your cable I put mine at 1/16 inch between flipper and rest with hand off the flipper. just pull out on it a little and see if it has too much slop. Let me know.

 

[corpeleven]

feeling pretty stupid right now....

I took apart my throttle assembly today to check the throttle safety switch (the one inside the flipper pivot). It's fine. BUT, I discoverd that my sled lacks the small switch that the flipper hits when you let off (the one by the cable pull point). I assume that this is a bypass so the sled stays running at idle when there is no pressure on the other switch?

If this is the case, and this whole time I've just been missing that small piece I'm going to feel like a complete idiot. So feel free to chime in and varify my retardedness. (that would be great so I could finally put the problem to bed!):beer;

 

[Daggerboat]

There is only the switch on the pivot on the 600....Just curious, what RPM is your idle adjusted to?

 

[corpeleven]

Idle RPM is set at about 1700.

My wife's 06 600 has both switches, why did they go away from that one in 2007?

 

[Daggerboat]

They went to what is called the Software Stop System for the throttle overide function....I don't know all the specific's but the TPS signal is compared to the throttle lever switch signal to kill the ignition....The only info I can find is for the CFI but with only the one switch I'm assuming the CDI kills ignition when the throttle switch is closed but the TPS is above idle (throttle cable stuck)

 

[corpeleven]

So how do I fix this problem? I had a lefty on the sled, and it used a different pivot bolt for the flipper. It almost seems like it's ever so slightly too small, and letting that switch extend out and kill the sled. Do you think I could fix this by simply installing a slightly larger pivot bolt? Seems like that would work.

It's just that tiny bit of extra movement that kills it. If I just let off the flipper easy, it doesn't die. But, after letting off, if I then pull the flipper towards me (sitting on sled) it dies. Only takes a tiny bit more movement to do it. I'm thinking if I could just prevent that movement or somehow limit it so the safety switch has enough pressure on it even when the flipper is pulled back, that would cure the issue.

 

[skibreeze]

So how do I fix this problem? I had a lefty on the sled, and it used a different pivot bolt for the flipper. It almost seems like it's ever so slightly too small, and letting that switch extend out and kill the sled. Do you think I could fix this by simply installing a slightly larger pivot bolt? Seems like that would work.

It's just that tiny bit of extra movement that kills it. If I just let off the flipper easy, it doesn't die. But, after letting off, if I then pull the flipper towards me (sitting on sled) it dies. Only takes a tiny bit more movement to do it. I'm thinking if I could just prevent that movement or somehow limit it so the safety switch has enough pressure on it even when the flipper is pulled back, that would cure the issue.

Couldn't you just tighten the lefty cable slightly, should act the same as pulling the flipper towards you.

 

[Daggerboat]

Left side throttle ?

You never mentioned a lefty anytime in this thread??? Did you have this problem before you modified the throttle system ?

 

[corpeleven]

I bought the sled with the lefty already installed. The problem developed later. Took the lefty off completely to eliminate that as a potential problem. Sled still did this, and problem became worse...hmmm! Might leave it off. I rarely use it, but then again, when I do use it (icy, low speed, super off camber side hill crawling) I really like having it.

Skibreeze - yes, in theory I could tighten the lefty cable more and that might prevent the flipper pivot bolt from moving back and away from the safety switch, and thus from dieing under normal use, but if it got bumped at all, it would still move outward too far and die.

I *think* I fixed it last night. All I did was put a twist tie (yes, like what comes on a loaf of bread) into the oval slot on the throttle block. This prevents the pivot bolt from moving back (away from) the safety switch too far. I could not get it to die with this in place. I'm going to try this and if it works I'll figure out a more permanent and durable fix.

 

[skibreeze]

Using those screws suck, the threads will dig in and wear your hole bigger. I used JB weld on the threads to smooth it out and prevent the issue. If you take the lefty off, you could go back to the stock pin.

 

[corpeleven]

Breeze - Yep, and I think that is EXACTLY what happened to mine. Since the sled came with the lefty on it, I don't have the stock pin. So if my bread tie fix indeed fixes it, I'll order a new throttle block, and pin, and ditch the lefty. Sure going to miss it though on some of those crazy icy side hills down south....you know where I'm sure...

 

[corpeleven]

Back to square 1.

Sled died on me 6 times today. Each time I was on the throttle, from 1/4 to WFO. When it shuts off, it's off like the kill switch was hit.

Sometime it will fire right back up, but most of the time it doesn't. But if I let it sit there and cool down, it will fire back up every time and run for a while till it gets hot again.

So today, when died I took Hillboy's advice, and unplugged the white connection coming out of the stator. This of course cut power to my ECU, headlight and bar/thumb warmers. I let her cool down and started it up. Ran fine for a 5 minutes. Then died again. So I've come to the conclusion that it's the stator and not a short in the wiring or a connection. Is this a reasonable conclusion?

Do I need to pull the flywheel and recoil to test the stator or can I do it without removing it? Never had these parts off before.