• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

LED Head Light Help

indyseven

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Nov 2, 2009
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Hi guys, I know this question has probable been asked several times but I cant seem to find the right information I need. I want to put a LED head light on my custom built mountain sled but the stator only puts out AC voltage. I have installed a full wave bridge rectifier right at the headlight but I keep burning out the LED with high engine RPM. I thought that maybe i have a bad voltage regulator but the tach light doesn't seem to burn out (this is the only other bulb on the sled). what else do I need to do, constantly burning LED headlights out is getting costly. Any help is full appreciated guys!
 

Rosslbz

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Must be from voltage spike at high rpm, you will need a resistor in-line. The resistor will have to be sized according to your led voltage input limit.
 

Merlin

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Did you remove the factory(incandescent) headlight when you installed the LED light?

If so, unless you installed a resistor(or similar load to the headlight) the voltage regulator will not likely be able to "burn off" the excess current & the resulting voltage may be too high for the LED light.

That said, I'm not sure why the other lights are still OK(haven't burned out)?

Hi guys, I know this question has probable been asked several times but I cant seem to find the right information I need. I want to put a LED head light on my custom built mountain sled but the stator only puts out AC voltage. I have installed a full wave bridge rectifier right at the headlight but I keep burning out the LED with high engine RPM. I thought that maybe i have a bad voltage regulator but the tach light doesn't seem to burn out (this is the only other bulb on the sled). what else do I need to do, constantly burning LED headlights out is getting costly. Any help is full appreciated guys!
 

mountainhorse

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You may have burnt out your voltage regulator from the low load already.... as stated above... you will need a 100W load (true 100W) or the regulator will not work well.

LED's are a challenge in the sleds.... some state that they have had luck... while the majority have had to jump through hoops to use them.

What is the Voltage input spec on the LED's you bought?

Are you using the kind with the fan on them... or the ones with the ribbon heat sinks (best)??

A load resistor would be best ... make sure you use a wire wound, aluminum heat sink'd resistor... in the 2-ohm range... 100W rating min. ... and you will need to attach it to the bulkhead in a way that transfers heat from the resistor to the chassis well.

Good luck.











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indyseven

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Nov 2, 2009
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Thanks for the help guys. I purchased a new Arctic Cat 2 wire voltage Regulator today as I have read this is the way to go as far as voltage regs are concerned. One question I have is that the regulator with two wires replaces one with only one wire. Do I only hook up the yellow wire to it like factory Polaris or both yellow and brown from the stator. Also thanks Mountain Horse for the info on the resistor! i didn't know that the system wont work properly without load on it all the time. I have also read that a capacitor on the DC side of the full wave bridge rectifier will help smooth out the voltage and help with the flickering effect. Just not quite sure what size mf capacitor I would need to go with. If anyone has any suggestions based on what has worked for them I would truly appreciate it.

Thanks again for the help :0)
 

Merlin

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In the abscence of any firsthand information here on a DIY LED light circuit you could try contacting some of the companies that offer LED upgrades specifically for older snowmobiles to see what they have to say.

Another option would be to find a wiring schematic for a new sled that is factory equipped with LED headlights. Then do a little reverse engineering to see if you could build a circuit based off of that.

 
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