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hmm this is super similar to how mine is, did you keep the track covered or ditch that? also how long do your pre filters last? Ive been thinking about trying to enclose the area with outerwears material but i have a funny feeling it will always fill with snow. Do you ever get snow through to the point of having issues? its mostly the dry days that really get me screwed up. We had a pretty wet pow day recently and it was much less of an issue of course.
I use chain wax. It is more for water deflection. The grime you see on there is grease from when my main bearing went.Was looking at the little deflector above the chain , any of you guys tried chain wax in winter conditions ?
I use chain wax on my KTM 500 Riot with DID o ring chain. Spray it durning the week, doesn't seem to fling, bought at Walmart for about 7 instead of 15 at the bike shop. That being said, after 60 years of lubing my dirt bike chains profusely , I am not certain snow bike chains really benefit much from the lube, but I do it anyway.
are you still liking the raised head? I am pretty darn happy with the setup thus far, and I really like how well i can roll into the power off idle when navigating some tight stuff. Do you think you lost much of that? I have the PST clamp on heater and its not optimal, it only flows around 70% or so. I made a shield for the track blasting my intake and that helped a lot. I run heet as well. bike stays at least 120f and the carb is pretty well shielded.I think I still have a machined head around if you want it for raising your cylinder.
not sure it’s possible to keep all the snow out. Ide look at getting your carb hotter. Better contact patch between the heater and the carb / hotter coolant / more flow.
Contact patch is a real thing. If the heater is loose, the area available to transfer the heat is very very small. Really just one little spot of aluminum and the set screw.. I took forever with a dremmel and flapper wheel to get my heater so it was a press fit and touched all the way around.
Also I mix my fuel with some deicer in it. Maybe a couple ounces per 20L. I think that helps a lot.
Thats nice to hear, I guess a better way to put it would be that I love that i can put through something tight and roll into the powerband from near idle even in 3rd, it makes for quick launches and I never have to clutch into the gear. From the sound of it though it seems like I'll have plenty left with the cylinder raised. That raptor looks sweet, I bet its a workout though!I've been thinking about that off idle power a lot today in fact. I just switched back to my 360 2 stroke after riding the raptor 700 all season. the 700 has so much power at idle I won't stall ever. I could ride it home with a busted throttle cable. When I got on the 360 it felt weak on the bottom (and it has more than a 300 but hits like a 125) I decided the most important thing is the height and width of peak power. You really need to ignore off idle. If you ride much there you aren't getting anywhere fast even on my raptor. Now if you are stalling a lot that's a tuning issue not related to power. I've raised cylinders on 250s,300s,360s and 380 snow bikes and they all became leaders of the pack regardless of rider. On my 17 250xcw I raised the cylinder and cut the head too and it's never been on snow. I do ride that bike at idle in extreme enduro conditions even with my 15/45 dual sport sprockets and can't say I need any more. The power delivery is perfect and more than stock 300s.
Doing a top end so made a couple vids. Here is all the top secret info
All the hot tips on how to build a monster 300
What I’m explaining in the cylinder just gives the powervalve more range. So you have all the low end, but it will also rev farther like raising the cylinder. Gives you a really flat tq curve.
Wondering if just the increased compression (sx style head) And raised exhaust would make a noticeable difference?All the boxes I have tried only shift things around by like 1 hp.
If you grind the ign mount and move it over it for sure makes more power. It’s kinda the poor mans/worse way to increase compression. If you grind the mount it will also allow the pickup to move up/down too. Ktm does a real good job of locating the sensor and you lose that if you do this mod. So you have to check if it’s not going to hit the flywheel and you have spark. And blue loctite it there once you get it in the right spot.
Again I run c12. I wouldnt touch anything if running pump fuel
Doing a top end so made a couple vids. Here is all the top secret info
All the hot tips on how to build a monster 300
What I’m explaining in the cylinder just gives the powervalve more range. So you have all the low end, but it will also rev farther like raising the cylinder. Gives you a really flat tq curve.
I have tested the FMF fatty, stock and PC platinum pipes along with stock, cut down stock, stock XCW, turbinecore and PC full length silencers. According to my butt dyno the PC silencer was the best running silencer followed by the stock XC. I thought the PC pipe lost just enough on the bottom make riding the bike 'off the pipe' on anything but flat ground impossible. It was like a really strong running 250. The fatty seemed to gain a little bottom/mid torque over the stocker without losing too much high rpm.Thoughts on silencers? Specifically guys running a PC Platinum 2
All's iv ever heard was longer for more over rev but seems the R304 "shorty" seems to work best on ktm 300s. I was running a fmf turbinecore 2 and not real impressed.
The R304 or the factory sound?I have tested the FMF fatty, stock and PC platinum pipes along with stock, cut down stock, stock XCW, turbinecore and PC full length silencers. According to my butt dyno the PC silencer was the best running silencer followed by the stock XC. I thought the PC pipe lost just enough on the bottom make riding the bike 'off the pipe' on anything but flat ground impossible. It was like a really strong running 250. The fatty seemed to gain a little bottom/mid torque over the stocker without losing too much high rpm.
I was surprised that I found the PC muffler made gains on the mid/top without noticeable losses in the lower rpms. I would buy the muffler over either of the aftermarket pipes I have. It is loud though.
