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Khaos / WE Velocity Shocks ??

FatDogX

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Okay Guys,

With Snowcheck sleds starting to slowly role in and being fortunate to have a new 21 Khaos coming, I wanted to talk about the WE Velocity shocks.

So, for the guys that have been running the Velocity shocks, what have you guys seen and what do ya think???

What kind of settings on the high speed and low speed compression and what have you seen with these adjustments?

What kind of spring adjustments have you guys been doing or what kind of settings are you running with your rider weight?

Has any of the "larger" / bigger boys out there changed out to the RMK rear track spring (stiffer)?

Anyone running the Khaos Z-Broz triple rate springs, if so...what kind of feedback?

Let's hear what the Khaos boys have to say!!!
 

damx

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I rode a khaos for a couple days, I'm 240 not geared up. At my weight I would change out the spring or something for sure. Its soo fun in the meadows and little hills where you don't need to climb though, but snowbikes were out climbing me.
 

FatDogX

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So.....

Do the "heavier" guys go with the heavier or "pro rmk" rear track shock spring or, does a guy try the triple rate Z-Broz Khaos rear suspension springs (pair)?

 

damx

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Imo the triple rate springs sag more, if it's a 155 I would try a pro spring.
 

FatDogX

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Imo the triple rate springs sag more, if it's a 155 I would try a pro spring.
Well.....I've got a 165 coming and I'm one of those bigger guys, 250 lb......or "medium husky" I always say! LOL

The Z-Broz is actually a better deal considering you get both rear springs at 145.00, but I don't want to waste money and just end up with the factory one????

The Pro RMK, WE rear track shock spring for both clicker shock and non clicker is the following, for $128.00

Thoughts??????
 
Oct 25, 2012
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I put about 1400 miles on the Khaos last season. Although, mine did have 163" Iceage conversion under it. I ran it with the stock springs for about 800 miles and then tried the Zbroz springs all the way around. I found that the Zbroz did not ride any better than the stock springs. Also, setting the RTS spring at Zbroz recommended preload setting seemed a little loose. I found the spring to rub a little on my shock tube. The dual rate ski springs are annoyingly noisy!!! I ran this setup for about 3 rides before going back to stock. My current setup is all stock with the front ski shocks at 1" of preload. A little tight, but my swaybar is removed. I can't recall the exact FTS & RTS preload, but I know it is just slightly stiffer than the recommendations in the owners manual. Running the rear suspension this way really lightens up the front end and helps with the bottoming out due to the lighter RTS. I run the low speed compression all the way out and then in one click on all four shocks. I run the high speed compression all the way out and in 3-4 clicks in on the FTS & RTS. I pretty much don't ever touch the rear suspension from there. In the front I play with the high speed compression depending where I'm riding. Down a choppy trail I run the high speed compression all the way in and out 1 click. On the mountain I run the high speed compression all the way out and in 1 click. The reason for bringing everything back in one click, is they say running all the way in or out will damage the shocks. I weigh 250 in street cloths. I have a 2021 coming as well with a 165 on it, and I think I am going to try running a PRO RTS this year with less preload. I hope this helps.
 

FatDogX

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I put about 1400 miles on the Khaos last season. Although, mine did have 163" Iceage conversion under it. I ran it with the stock springs for about 800 miles and then tried the Zbroz springs all the way around. I found that the Zbroz did not ride any better than the stock springs. Also, setting the RTS spring at Zbroz recommended preload setting seemed a little loose. I found the spring to rub a little on my shock tube. The dual rate ski springs are annoyingly noisy!!! I ran this setup for about 3 rides before going back to stock. My current setup is all stock with the front ski shocks at 1" of preload. A little tight, but my swaybar is removed. I can't recall the exact FTS & RTS preload, but I know it is just slightly stiffer than the recommendations in the owners manual. Running the rear suspension this way really lightens up the front end and helps with the bottoming out due to the lighter RTS. I run the low speed compression all the way out and then in one click on all four shocks. I run the high speed compression all the way out and in 3-4 clicks in on the FTS & RTS. I pretty much don't ever touch the rear suspension from there. In the front I play with the high speed compression depending where I'm riding. Down a choppy trail I run the high speed compression all the way in and out 1 click. On the mountain I run the high speed compression all the way out and in 1 click. The reason for bringing everything back in one click, is they say running all the way in or out will damage the shocks. I weigh 250 in street cloths. I have a 2021 coming as well with a 165 on it, and I think I am going to try running a PRO RTS this year with less preload. I hope this helps.
Great information!!

The more I research, the more I'm leaning towards the Pro RTS as well. I have a 2021 Khaos 165 coming and weigh pretty much the same as you.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Im running the pro rear rear spring on my 2016 162x3 PC with khaos shocks.

i’m 230# and run minimum preload.

handles 7# of boost just fine.(maxed low speed compression for climbs and midway for playing around)
 

danby

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I'm one of those bigger guys and they only thing I had to do was change out my rear track spring for a regular rmk spring. World of difference and I can turn my low speed compression down and use the whole range to set it up as playful or as plans as I want
 

summ8rmk

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On my 20, the rear shock will kick out hard after a few big moguls. Its almost like a ballon getting pumped up with every mogul then boom, kicks you sideways then soaks up the next few moguls and again boom.
This is only while pounding down the trail.
Off trail, shocks perform fine.

At 190# i do notice the rear spring is light and i have the preload cranked up to prevent bottoming out. The front shocks are great and i do tend to change the dampers throughout the day.

I have only ridden spring snow with this seld as i bought it in April.

Sent it
 

Sheetmetalfab

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On my 20, the rear shock will kick out hard after a few big moguls. Its almost like a ballon getting pumped up with every mogul then boom, kicks you sideways then soaks up the next few moguls and again boom.
This is only while pounding down the trail.
Off trail, shocks perform fine.

At 190# i do notice the rear spring is light and i have the preload cranked up to prevent bottoming out. The front shocks are great and i do tend to change the dampers throughout the day.

I have only ridden spring snow with this sled as i bought it in April.

Sent it
Have carl’s cycle put fox internals and good oil in them.
They become more consistent.
 

Mxracer39

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You could try a faster rebound setting on the rear shocks, it may help this.. When I raced atv mx, we called this packing from the rebound adjustment being too slow so the suspension wouldn’t fully rebound before it hits the next mogul. Each mogul puts the rear suspension further down in its travel because it hasn’t fully rebounded from the prior bump, eventually it bottoms out and sends the rear end flying.

On my 20, the rear shock will kick out hard after a few big moguls. Its almost like a ballon getting pumped up with every mogul then boom, kicks you sideways then soaks up the next few moguls and again boom.
This is only while pounding down the trail.
Off trail, shocks perform fine.

At 190# i do notice the rear spring is light and i have the preload cranked up to prevent bottoming out. The front shocks are great and i do tend to change the dampers throughout the day.

I have only ridden spring snow with this seld as i bought it in April.

Sent it
 
Last edited:

FatDogX

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You could try a faster rebound setting on the rear shocks, it may help this.. When I raced atv mx, we called this packing from the rebound adjustment being too slow so the suspension wouldn’t fully rebound before it hits the next mogul. Each mogul puts the rear suspension further down in its travel because it hasn’t fully rebounded from the prior bump, eventually it bottoms out and sends the rear end flying.
I know what your saying but just for clarification for others....

Faster rebound is a softer setting / lower setting on the dial or clicker
Slower rebound is a harder setting / higher setting on the dial or clicker
 

FatDogX

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Alright guys, looking to order a Pro RMK rear spring for the new Khaos, I'm guessing the one to get or try first is the standard 210# spring and not the 250#???

And there is two different 210# springs. One is for the monotube shock and the other is for the clicker shock? Different part numbers and different prices.

Item #7044812-458 - 216.99 / monotube shock
Item #7043714-458 - 82.99 / clicker shock
 
Last edited:

Sheetmetalfab

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Alright guys, looking to order a Pro RMK rear spring for the new Khaos, I'm guessing the one to get or try first is the standard 210# spring and not the 250#???

And there is two different 210# springs. One is for the monotube shock and the other is for the clicker shock? Different part numbers and different prices.

Item #7044812-458 - 216.99 / monotube shock
Item #7043714-458 - 82.99 / clicker shock
I know the one from the clicker shock works great.

The monotube spring is probably the fancy SLS lightweight one.

The 250# spring is for 300# guys.
Worthless (I have one sitting)
 

FatDogX

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I know the one from the clicker shock works great.

The monotube spring is probably the fancy SLS lightweight one.

The 250# spring is for 300# guys.
Worthless (I have one sitting)
Ahh, that's right I completely spaced the "new" spring, I bet you are right on the money!! Quite a price difference between the two!! I think I'll just try out the clicker 210# spring and go from there!!
 
You could try a faster rebound setting on the rear shocks, it may help this.. When I raced atv mx, we called this packing from the rebound adjustment being too slow so the suspension wouldn’t fully rebound before it hits the next mogul. Each mogul puts the rear suspension further down in its travel because it hasn’t fully rebounded from the prior bump, eventually it bottoms out and sends the rear end flying.
its called stacking
 

Matthew runge

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I hope someone can come up with some good mountain riding baseline for the Velocity shock set up for my 2.75 165 khaos. I have my sled set up exactly as the owners manual specifies but just off the feel in the garage I’m guessing it’s not even going to be close seems pretty soft with a lot of sag inthe front and rear sitting in the middle of the stroke with me on it
 

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G-Force

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I hope someone can come up with some good mountain riding baseline for the Velocity shock set up for my 2.75 165 khaos. I have my sled set up exactly as the owners manual specifies but just off the feel in the garage I’m guessing it’s not even going to be close seems pretty soft with a lot of sag inthe front and rear sitting in the middle of the stroke with me on it
Off topic, but which rear bumper is that?
 
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