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Khaos shock settings.

G
Jan 21, 2008
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Seeing as how some guys are getting a bit of time on these new shocks, has anyone been playing around with the low/high speed clickers and seeing much of a difference? Would be nice to get a thread going with your setup and what you have your shocks set to. I haven't touched mine yet as I've only been on the trails so far due to a lack of snow.
 

Prayn4snow

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Good idea greasemonkey,
There are quite a few new people to the Polaris RMK platform because of the Khaos (welcome some of my Cat & Doo friends). Some basic tips I would suggest is 1st to just ride it and get used to the sled, how it handles, transfers and reacts. If you don't carry a cheat sheet with you to establish a base line I suggest making a new contact on your phone titled 850 Khaos. Drop down to the notes and start with the factory settings. (I do this with clutching/elevations as well) Note any changes you made, but start Small. You can make major changes to the ride characteristics with just slight changes on the RMK/Khaos. Do one change at a time, for example if you want to adjust the (RTS) rear track spring on the rear suspension for more or less transfer and ski pressure don't adjust the shock clickers for ride quality at the same time. For less transfer, tighten the RTS, more transfer decrease RTS preload.
For the new Khaos shocks changing the High and low speed compression the two clickers (inside and outside knob) are in the same spot. The Red outside clicker is for "High speed" and clockwise increase compression, counterclockwise for decreased. The small Black inside is for "Low speed", with same clockwise increase, counterclockwise to decrease. Keep the rear suspension greased very often with a low temp synthetic grease.
Last year on the Khaos I would switch back and forth from the standard RMK, RMK with W.Evans clicker shocks and the Khaos. For example on the standard RMK, I would bottom out on some of the big whoops on the trail headed to the mountain. With the upgrade Walker Evans clickers I could dial them down for a softer trail pounding and stiffen them up when I got to the hills. Surprisingly the Khaos shocks were much better in all situations. I could dial them soft for the trail and a couple quick clicks at the powder and their they stayed most days until the trial ride back. Some of the pro riders with us (RMSHA) would pound this shock full speed down the whoops and still stay under control. I wasn't quite willing to total a new prototype sled WOT down the whoops (my excuse for wimping out) lol.
 
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Wheel House Motorsports

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I've found myself running the ski shocks with additonal preload (~1") as well as both high and low speed about maxed out. I've jumped up high speed a few clicks on both front and rear track shocks and a little more low speed on the rear shock as well.

The shocks ride really nice but they are just a bit on the soft side out of the box for my liking.
 

TRS

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Nick or Robert, do you know what the travel is on the Khaos FTS? Wondering if it is the same as the RMK. If it is, there is an easy
fix for the standard shock when converting to Khaos rails.
.0644F587-DE85-4F69-8707-061D0B08FB46.jpeg
 

TRS

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Disregard, a Raptor kit is available for the WE at a very reasonable price.
For those that have some old WE laying around, this could be an option.
 

Prayn4snow

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Disregard, a Raptor kit is available for the WE at a very reasonable price.
For those that have some old WE laying around, this could be an option.
You were totally on to something Tony, but your right Raptor has the kit for only $75 and $25 more for the longer limiter strap. The Khaos FTS conversation is here: https://www.raptorshocks.com/product/khaos-f-t-shock-conversion-kit-walker-evans-shock/
For some guys like Nick that are hitting the bigger jumps they have some triple rate springs that might help. The OEM did an excellent job with the Khaos shocks to fit "most" of us, but no company and meet the requirements of every rider out there. Raptor has 2 triple rate spring kits, a base model that is softer on the 1st 1/2 of shock stroke while the last half is progressively stiffens. They recommend the base kit for riders up to 250lbs, and the Triple rate "Firm" kit for aggressive riders and the 250lb + range.
 

madmax

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I saw these Khaos shock settings on Facebook. From snotech magazine. Were a good starting point for me, but you really have to adjust to your terrain, riding style and weight.

8D162647-F703-4DDA-B719-6ED01D2DD7B9.png
 

summ8rmk

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I am surprised that this thread hasn't had more input....?
Rode the khaos today and very disappointed with initiating a side hill. Coming from an Alpha its not even in the same realm. I was hoping it would be a lot closer that what it is.
Hearing "effortless" used so much .... it is far from effortless.
Pounding the whoops is amazing, these shocks are great. Now, what can i do to make it "effortless " ?
 

turboless terry

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The alpha to me is effortless. Love my buddy's 163 kaos but alpha is way easier and more fun. Just go ride a front heavy doo and then jump on the kaos. Don't ride your alpha anymore. Then you will feel really good about the kaos. I'm putting a skins front end on my wife's kaos. Burandt told me they are easier to initiate and steer easier. Front is up about 2 more inches. Will see but guessing whatever i do it won't be as easy as an alpha.
 

Killer Time Racing

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Your comparing a Alpha to a Khoas on 4/20 and you can't get it to set in is your question? It's going to be a little hard to initiate anything in spring.
I'd wait till you have some actual snow.
I'd bet it keeps lurching forward and can't get in edge huh?

Pro chassis initiate with throttle not chassis give like a Alpha. They also sit way higher so it will be impossible to compare until the snow is at least up to the belly.

But you are correct they are not effortless in the parking lot like a Textron.
 

summ8rmk

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Your comparing a Alpha to a Khoas on 4/20 and you can't get it to set in is your question? It's going to be a little hard to initiate anything in spring.
I'd wait till you have some actual snow.
I'd bet it keeps lurching forward and can't get in edge huh?

Pro chassis initiate with throttle not chassis give like a Alpha. They also sit way higher so it will be impossible to compare until the snow is at least up to the belly.

But you are correct they are not effortless in the parking lot like a Textron.

Riding with Pro 163, my Khaos155 is not easier to initiate like the claims i have heard. Snow was quit soft, sidehilling wasn't an issue.
Axys and elevated mtn cat are the same height. My Cats, Alpha and twin rail are easier to initiate one ski. I bought the Khaos to replace the twin rail Cat since they are no longer making them. Twin rail sleds are better for the early and late seasons.

My silly Azz thought i could ask for shock settings and get some info on shock settings.... not criticized for comparing an 'easy to ride' Cat to an "effortless" Polaris.....
crazy right.

I'll just crank the FTS till it feels better...

I could have asked this question on Facebook and got an answer like urs.

Thanks for the help.



Sent it
 
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Sheetmetalfab

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Riding with Pro 163, my Khaos155 is not easier to initiate like the claims i have heard. Snow was quit soft, sidehilling wasn't an issue.
Axys and elevated mtn cat are the same height. My Cats, Alpha and twin rail are easier to initiate one ski. I bought the Khaos to replace the twin rail Cat since they are no longer making them. Twin rail sleds are better for the early and late seasons.

My silly Azz thought i could ask for shock settings and get some info on shock settings.... not criticized for comparing an 'easy to ride' Cat to an "effortless" Polaris.....
crazy right.

I'll just crank the FTS till it feels better...

I could have asked this question on Facebook and got an answer like urs.

Thanks for the help.



Sent it

Let’s recap.

you asked for magic settings to make the sled “effortless“.

someone told you what you didn’t want to hear. (Apples don’t = oranges)

you reiterated that you already know what to do so the question was rhetorical.

sounds like a win win.......
 

summ8rmk

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Let’s recap.

you asked for magic settings to make the sled “effortless“.

someone told you what you didn’t want to hear. (Apples don’t = oranges)

you reiterated that you already know what to do so the question was rhetorical.

sounds like a win win.......
Nope,
Just thought with all the people out there riding this season, i could get a good base line for what im trying to achieve.
Save myself some time...
Guess people are not as helpful as i hoped.



Sent it
 

94fordguy

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So since we seem to be missing the point a bit here, let's bring it back in. Typically you'll get more transfer by softening the rear track shock and more tip and lift working with increasing the preload on the front track shock (and the skis as well). I don't have a Khaos, but I'm intrigued by the possibility of having a shock that can be tuned by both high-speed and low-speed compression, sounds pretty bad-ass to me. Has anyone else found it necessary to dial in MORE transfer and tip into the sled? If so, how?

This winter I picked up a brand new '19 Axys PRO RMK 163-3" (my first brand new sled ever) and have the sled dialed to where I LOVE IT! I've got lots of transfer and it rolls pretty dang easy for a sled that was so 'stiff' out of the box. Only complaint I have now is that the rear track shock bottoms out way too easy with my given amount of transfer and pre-load where I want them. The Velocity shocks sound bad-ass and I wouldn't mind picking one up to replace the RTS if I can acheive the same performance and eliminate the bottoming issue that's solely a high speed dampening problem. So I'm curious to hear some advice on this too if someone has found a good combination of making the sled tip and roll easier.
 

sno*jet

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"welp no more snow in the parking lot, guess the snows not up to my belly anymore time to put em away till next season". :coffee:
 

Killer Time Racing

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Pros have different spring rates than Khaos/Assault RMKs try starting there .
Pro has a 250# VS Assault/Khaos 180# RTS ( side note put a Pro spring on if your heavy , but I don't know if it fits the collar)
Had to go back and research the FTS .. Pro 250# Khaos 150# ..
Front springs 100# Khaos , Pro same 100#

You said 163 Khaos ?? That is not a model so who knows what you have .

If you just put rails on and a longer shock, did you adjust the IFP or valving? And like I said if you didn't get the front spring your already backwards. The rear is softer in a Khaos for more transfer.

I saw someone said Burandt told them to put a taller front on it. That seems backward of the same guy telling them to put the shortest bar on you can find.

What Front do you have? SwayBar?? You need to adjust the valving if you took it off.
If you have a Z Broz it will have negative camber unless you run shorter shocks. others are adjustable.
If you adjust the Front Preload firmer it will definitely be harder to initiate.

Ya you might need Facebook on this one. They can point you in the right direction.
 
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summ8rmk

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I ride with 163 Pros, i have a 155 Khaos.
Stock, new with 45mi now.
I haven't had coil shocks since 2013.
I increased the preload, turned the FTS 4 full turns on the mountain, one turn at a time. Factory setting had about 1 thread Showing under the spring. I increased the preload another 3 full turns for my next ride.

Sent it
 

Sheetmetalfab

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I ride with 163 Pros, i have a 155 Khaos.
Stock, new with 45mi now.
I haven't had coil shocks since 2013.
I increased the preload, turned the FTS 4 full turns on the mountain, one turn at a time. Factory setting had about 1 thread Showing under the spring. I increased the preload another 3 full turns for my next ride.

Sent it

cranking that spring more will just keep making it harsher in the chatter.

Use the rear track shock low speed compression as wheelie control.

back the thing off a little until it “pops” with throttle.

I have minimum spring preload (even the fts spring) all around and use the hi and low speed dampening adjustments to anti bottom and anti wheelie (Or wheelie more)
 

Killer Time Racing

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I posted the spring rates . So if you turned the FTS up and nothing else you would be making the skid transfer extremely hard and if your using short bars and standing way up on the boards it will want to just turn out and go down hill.

Try standing back .

I come from a Sno Cross background so I am not allowed to touch mine. My tuner makes all my adjustments and glues the clickers so I've never touched them . Not on my Mountain sleds but still I've never touched any. But I do know about spring rates I have a box of those.
 
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