You about ready to do some lernen!
There are tons of clutching topics throughout this Snowest Forum spend an afternoon or five and you will get the jist, find a friend who gets all the sled mags, once or twice a year they show a teardown and rebuild of most types of primary and secondary clutches, then ther's Youtube.
Steering, the 4 bolts 6mm x really long maybe 70mm holding the steering stem to the bulk head through the plastic bushings may have one or two broken at the nut.
You can ask any Ski-Doo shop for the pins J and L mentioned, 10 gram hollow for up to 6000', 9 gram 6-10,000', 415 ramps to replace stock 417's not critical but you should if you want it to rock, spring same as Ski-Doo Summit 800 2004-2006 these parts will get you in the right direction on the primary lower clutch. Secondary on the 800 Snow Hawk is worth keeping if your budget is small it's similar to the Summit's just not sprung or Helix right but can work in original trim. Artic Cat from Bud/Yamacat is the best bang for the buck just don't forget to tell him it's for the splined 800 Ski-Doo shaft not original keyway 503F/600HO Snow Hawk. The Artic Cat belt, part # 0627-020 is Bud's choice for his clutch, I found it works well and lasts longer on a 600HO still with stock clutching set up as best as it can, so should it with yours.
Original jets should be 490 mains if you are around the before mentioned riding elevations then replace starting around 420 and check plugs dropping no less then to 390's, if your HIGHER then lean out or call the cops! To do the carbs right remove them and go down a few sizes on the pilot jets.
Attac is something to consider but I'd rather put my money towards a Summit parts machine or runner, swap electrics and control module and anything else Summit, 144" track, clutch parts if low miles, etc., then use OEM Snow Hawk parts to reinstate sled to running cond. and dump that COUCH for what sum TWOSKI:boxing: will giv-for-her!
Don't ever mention you're working on a Hawk to the person at the dealer counter, throws them way off, not to mention your asking for parts from an "OLD" sled. They might just send you down to sales for an 012 8HUNNERT Etek!:second::boxing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M55m81BWdBc scene @ 5:10 :face-icon-small-win
The cog belt fraying is just the beginning of your problems with that longer 1360mm 4 pulley setup, next comes the "cracked" frame if you don't change to the before mentioned or chain drive.
Since you've joined this club your just going to have to do alot of this stuff for your self if you want it right, bonus is you'll find out just how easy it all is and that those genius's at the "SLED SHOP" will do just fine if there are any turnovers at the local Jiffy Lube.
No bonus just plain SUCKS!:becky:
