N
People are still satisfyed with the Jawspipe? Guess some of you have gotten som miles on it now.
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Jaws pipe on 20-21 ctec
- Thread starter bcsnowdog
- Start date
T
Yes. I have had zero issues. Just helped another buddy install a set on his new 21.
I’ve only had two rides this year due to lack of snow, but the pipe is looking good so far.
You running painted pipe or ceramic? How do you find bottom end power? How much weight did you add to clutch? thx
T
Black painted. I did not have to adjust the weights for my elevation 8-9k. Bottom end feels more responsive no hiccups or bogs all the way thru the throttle range.
I have a strange running issue just above engagement to about 6,000 RPM. Above that RPM it's great. It may be a leaky injector, my lightweight exhaust canister or my aftermarket intake causing the issue but, the Jaws pipe was also part of my mods, so who knows. I keep knocking out culprits every time I ride. It wasn't the BR9EIX spark plugs in place of the BPR9ES plugs that were causing the issue. One thing for sure, you can sure feel that Jaws pipe bark and the sled take off like a rocket when you pin it!
I don't want to derail the Jaws pipe discussion but, you're right.
Yes, it could be the tune. It's on my list of things to check as well as maybe installing a reducer in the Jaws pipe designed for higher altitude. However, on the Alpha One forum on Facebook, it sounds like MANY people have the very same problem I am having on my 2020. It could be injector synching that's supposedly required anytime there's a re-flash accomplished. Each injector has a code and and specific flow rate that must be put in when the re-flash is done. On the aftermarket re-flashes, I doubt that is being done. This could be the problem.
Yes, it could be the tune. It's on my list of things to check as well as maybe installing a reducer in the Jaws pipe designed for higher altitude. However, on the Alpha One forum on Facebook, it sounds like MANY people have the very same problem I am having on my 2020. It could be injector synching that's supposedly required anytime there's a re-flash accomplished. Each injector has a code and and specific flow rate that must be put in when the re-flash is done. On the aftermarket re-flashes, I doubt that is being done. This could be the problem.
Have you tried putting stock muffler back on? My 20 sounded bad and and ran rough on low rpm when packing was gone in can.
J
What are you guys doing with heat shields so the panels don’t melt?
T
I just used thermo shield tape from napa. The 2 inch wide strips. Used three packs but I did everything that could possibly get hot. Probably a little overkill.
"Have you tried putting stock muffler back on? My 20 sounded bad and and ran rough on low rpm when packing was gone in can".
It's on my list of things to try.
It's on my list of things to try.
Everything I've heard, don't tune when it isn't needed.
Bump.
What are peoples thoughts on the pipes with more time on? I see JAWS offers their own Re-flash for the sleds too which I imagine really helps to get every last bit out of it... they claim 14-15 hp gain.... Which really isn't too shabby....
What are peoples thoughts on the pipes with more time on? I see JAWS offers their own Re-flash for the sleds too which I imagine really helps to get every last bit out of it... they claim 14-15 hp gain.... Which really isn't too shabby....
Happy with mine on my ‘20 with no tune as jaws recommended. When I first got my ‘20 I honestly thought it was kind of a dud and that my previous ‘14 zuke would have smoked it. Actually my brothers ‘14 with just a y pipe and Mds clutching would kill it in an uphill drag. Haven’t had the chance to run it against that sled again, but on my last ride we had a doo 850 up there and I was beating him up the hill by a good sled length or better although he was slowly starting to gain ground towards the top. I don’t think I would have had a chance in stock form. Clutching wise I was running stock weights with an ssi 120/280 spring and I believe a 45 helix and whatever yellow secondary spring Steve at Mds sent me when I was trying to get his weights to work. I say was running because my team cracked after that ride and I haven’t had a chance to ride since I put the adapt on. the jaws pipe seems to perform better once it’s good and hot. Only negative I’ve seen is it’s melting the hood and fender panel together at the twist lock fastener.
B
if I was to run one on my '18 I would need a controller.
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Or Jaws Reflash. Seems most places have cheap deals on PCV controllers for CTEC probably because of the ease of reflashing.
I wouldn't touch a piggy back controller, just never been desirable, Jaws has a ecm tune, I'd go with it as it'll run like stock. From I seen independent dyno's, the Jaws and tune do seem like a reliable 12-15hp over stock. so it's actually not bad at all,
