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Indy Lite track specs!?

E
Apr 3, 2008
3
0
1
Soldotna AK
I just picked up a 92 indy lite deluxe that needs a track. It has the 2ndary attached directly to the driveshaft. I think the track is 116x15 with 2" pitch drivers. Can anyone confiirm this? I'm scrambling for a replacement or alternative.
 
5

550iq

Well-known member
Oct 7, 2008
558
188
43
Anchorage, Alaska
Well I drug out the old service manual and can verify the 116" track length but manual does not indicate the track pitch - measure the lug to lug distance to get this (sounds like you did). If it helps, the drive sprocket diameter is 3.69". The manual also has other choice vehical data if you need it.:beer;
 
N

NINJIN

Active member
Nov 29, 2007
152
25
28
we could not find a replacement for our 92 indy lite track and ended up scrapin the thing not saying you cant find one but we didnt....
 

retiredpop

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 3, 2001
1,349
295
83
Calgary
You would have to replace the 2" drivers with 2.52" and go with a 121 track. The original tracks are no longer available.
 
R
Nov 28, 2009
371
6
18
even on a 440 go to a 136. go to avid products.com and get one of there extentions your stock will not be listed but get there number and call they will make a custom one for the same price and just a hint you have i beam rails then find a 136 with at least 1 3/4 lugs you may need a set of drop brackets to run it they are easy to make just make sure to have them slightly angeld back to add them undo the rear bolts on rear suspension them bolt on them to the tunnel then to suspentio so make a hole to fit the tunnel then i would say drop about three to four inches it will help alot on a trail sled make it a triangle peice and add another hole to fit it a little farther back so it dosent move. if its not back right the suspention may need to be adjusted this will be a few hundred bucks if you need a pic of the drop brakets go to timbersled.com do it like that but add the therd bolt to add suport so it wont move. if you have any question send me a pm i have a 96 xlt rmk with a 133 it is still an agressive/wedge chasis
 
T

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
890
113
Soldotna Alaska
Myself, and sevreal freinds all had indy lites for the kids when they were younger. We all ended up with 136 x 1.5" tracks under them. The little 340's pulled them well with small kids on them....well even with the big kids:D These were not the 92's though so this info won't do the OP alot of good. Try Verba's???
 
V

volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
4,221
1,612
113
Stayton Oregon
Have you got any pictures of an Indy Lite with a 136 x 1.5?

I just put a 133x1.5 on my 440SKS - Liquid. I was hoping it would handle it ok, but if my '94 Indy Lite could, then the 440 should.
 
R
Nov 28, 2009
371
6
18
well my friend has a 440 toring sport with a 136 and we are always diggenhim out just with how low it is get a drop kit your hedden off trail i hate that sled with a passion 4 that reason
 
R
Nov 27, 2007
251
19
18
38
Bozeangelas
go with the 7 tooth slp drivers as you can fit a 1.6" track under it... your rails should be long enough to fit the 121.

BTW my 340 121 lite went everwhere 800's went around bozeman in reasonably set up snow you just have to pick a different line and keep it pinned... learn to ride the sled you have and you can do anything with it...
 
V

volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
4,221
1,612
113
Stayton Oregon
I have a stock 121 and 133.5 (2.52" pitch) tracks that might help you out. You would still need to change out the drivers. Not sure if the stock 9 toothers would fit in that tunnel or not. If so, I have some of those too. If you used the 133 track, I believe a standard 121 to 136 extension should work on your rails too.

Just an idea.
 
J
Nov 14, 2015
1
1
1
54
I have a stock 121 and 133.5 (2.52" pitch) tracks that might help you out. You would still need to change out the drivers. Not sure if the stock 9 toothers would fit in that tunnel or not. If so, I have some of those too. If you used the 133 track, I believe a standard 121 to 136 extension should work on your rails too.

Just an idea.
Bringing up an 11 year old post... You still sell tracks for a 340. I am rebuilding one for my daughter.
 
J
Apr 3, 2017
18
11
3
Bringing up an 11 year old post... You still sell tracks for a 340. I am rebuilding one for my daughter.
I just replaced a 133.5 x .75 X 15 X 2.52 pitch stock track under a '95 Indy Lite GT with a Ski Doo 136 X 1.25.X 16. Bit of a project but wow! What a difference. Had to cut an inch off the 16 inch width, the Lite tunnel was just too narrow without a lot of cleanup and it may still have not worked. Relatively easy to cut 1/2 an inch off each side of the track with a battery powered DeWalt circular saw and carbide blade. I used a 3 foot long piece of cut off trim wood as a fence along the drive lugs as a guide, used a lot of batteries and it creates a lot of smoke but the result was a clean cut and now fit. A lot of other sleds of the '90s and 2005 vintage used the 2.52 pitch tracks and 136 was a common length. I had problems with the extra track length in spite of the numbers really looking like they should work - after all, on paper the difference is only 2.5 inches, some of that is split top and bottom and a typical setting for the adjusters in the rear has an easy inch or more left. So really only about 1.25 inches appears to be the factor in play but not so in this case. The Ski Doo track may have been a long 136 and the Polaris stocker may have been on the short side. Anyhow, what I finally did was drill out the next lower of the front optional front mounting points to move the front torque arm mounting down and away from the driver cogs and went to 180 mm Ski Doo rear idler wheels that had the same 6205 bearing/bore setup as the Polaris. (NOTE: The Indy Lite GT uses 9 of the 6205 bearings in the skid wheels, the two track carriers in the upper tunnel are the only different ones and they are 99502H bearings. The rear idler wheels just press the 6205 bearing into the wheel, the 6 bogies all have plastic two piece bushings that mate the 25 mm inner bearing bore to the .750 inch axles or skid bolts as may be the case.)
There is a steel plate riveted to the inside the tunnel for the front torque arm mounts; it has 4 holes but just one is drilled through the tunnel and used. Polaris does not list the other three holes as "legal" options on the Lite sleds but does on others. Ski pressure can be really affected if you get too crazy moving the skid down. So dropping the front skid mount point down one hole "ate" some track without bothering the steering, the plastic skis I installed may be a big help as well. (The modern Sly Dog PowderHounds are keel style skis, they steer much easier than the stock "pizza cutter" steelies and at 7 inches wide float the front a LOT better.)
Results of the conversion: A much worthier sled, a lot more confident in challenging conditions and about 10 mph faster than it's '96 cousin with a stock 133.5 in deeper snow. Part throttle vs pinned is a result, far less power is needed to be comfortable in challenging snow. While on paper the 1.25 vs the .75 lug height difference is not that dramatic the Ski Doo track has wider lugs that effectively put close to double the paddle to work. The effect is that of a 1.5 paddle track if the lugs were the same width. And a 1.5 would take a LOT more effort to fit under the Lite GT. I can't pass a 1/4 inch test strip between the forward tunnel and the 1.25 track; this means changing to 7 or 8 tooth drivers at the least. That aggravates the track length problem and may back one into rail extensions to get it all to work. There are folks that have put up to 1.75 lug tracks under these machines and 7 tooth Extrovert drivers were mentioned.
 
J
Apr 3, 2017
18
11
3
This is NOT a Polaris sanctioned setup, do any of these steps at your own risk. Lateral stability may be compromised.

Update: Short brief, I have gone all out on both lug and suspension/skid lift/track driver change on a Lite GT. I had picked up a "parts" sled that while badly abused, turned out to be a runner. The left steely ski was a pretzel, the left rear skid attach bracket sheared/broken, the skid torque axles frozen in the tubes, the fan case/starter assy in a box, the hood a wreck. But fixable. And I learned a lot about the sled in the process.
I built a left rear skid attach bracket from a piece of 4" X 10" .080" chromolly steel, duplicating the hole patterns for both the tunnel attach holes as well as the skid. In addition, I added three holes below the stock position in a straight line. While I had the skid out I drilled the lowest holes out for the forward tunnel skid attach points to match the rears. The vertical spacing is 3/4 inch between holes. While I was at it I pulled the drive axle/9 tooth stock driver and pressed on 7 tooth drivers for the 1 1/2 inch paddle track I had in 136 inch X 15 X 2.52 pitch. When I assembled the skid/lift setup I left the existing attach brackets in place (what was left of the left rear one) and added the 4 X 10 plate to the inside and used longer 1/4 X 20 bolts for the tunnel. The .080 build up is tolerated well and the old brackets give some lateral stiffness to the extensions. There is an angle bracket spot welded to the vertical plate in the original setup, it bolts to the floor board for vertical shear strength and probably adds some lateral stiffness. It's hard to fabricate a duplicate as it has about a 7 degree offset angle to it to work with the 90 degree verticality of the tunnel attach pattern and the up angle of the floor boards. I left the angle brackets spot welded and carefully drilled a pair of 3/16 holes close to the spot welds and put steel pop rivets for additional strength. The whole skid setup bolted right up and the floorboard clearance increase is dramatic!
The results: The extra paddle is wonderful, combined with the extra lift the sled is far more tolerant of deeper snow and the "overflow" we encounter on the lakes here in Alaska. The extra lift allows the torsion springs to be backed down from max and makes for a much nicer ride. Still not modern rider forward quality but much nicer. The gear down achieved with the 7 tooth driver is dramatic to say the very least. It allows for much finer throttle control for starters, this makes crawling through sketchy places much tamer. The acceleration is very dramatic, the skis can come off the snow. This sled type always was good at towing cargo tubs, it's even better now. Of course there is no free lunch. Top speed is knocked down and the speedo is now nearly worthless due to two factors. First, the factory speedo setup is not very accurate on my sleds. They GPS out much slower than they read, 12% or more. 50 indicated is really 45, etc. With the 7 tooth driver that error is amplfied. While the sled now says it will do 70 (!) the GPS says 45!!! I believe the GPS.
A further note: I've put plastic skis on my machines for obvious reasons and they are a game changer in their own right. But be cautious when doing so as some of the modern plastic skis have a very, very pronounced keel to them and a stock Indy Lite GT has an issue with them. The sled wants to go straight on hard pack and it takes a LOT of steering effort to get the skis to turn. So far I've not investigated this very well, just put the steelys back on the affected, all stock sled and will regroup. The skis in question are a Yamaha variety for what it is worth. I have seen some after market comments that this can happen to even modern sleds.
Bottom line: The sled with this setup is my go to for cabin runs, especially towing a load of fuel or supplies as it totally blows the stock Lite GT sleds out of the water and has a leg up on the Lite GT machines with an 1 1/4 track set up.


This is NOT a Polaris sanctioned setup, do any of these steps at your own risk. Lateral stability may be compromised.
 
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