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    MH

Indy Dans Turbo Clutching

the way I understand it is it doesn't matter all in 1 or all spread equal its just what you prefer for the shift characteristic and are safe to shuffle them how you see fit 3-0-0 1-1-1 0-0-3 and so on. this is just to the best of my knowledge {in all the adj. weights I have hade over the years} but it wont hurt to call dan and confirm!
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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I personally would load 3 with one more, more overall bite. But I dont have enough info to say completely. Changing the heel will change engagement. The change IMO is not big but can affect things as you load them up more. Elevation, riding style, Boost, power it all changes things. I have mine fully loaded at the moment to run 5 and I have not noticed much difference when I tried some other placements. But I am rising 2500 and very aggressive with my throttle.. And brake. Just over 300 miles and had to order up some brake pads.
 

TRIPLESWILLNEVERDIE!

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A few customers called and asked if I would post on this thread.

I didn't have time to read this thread yet.

The Turbo 3 weights are pretty easy to tune, the tuning holes are all out at the tip for a reason.

And it seems a average gram weight i hear for 7 pounds of boost is about 72 to 74 gram area HIGH ELEVATION .

Now you can get to 72 area grams a lot ways....... the good part is that the T3 works pretty good even if its not SET-UP correct for your style.

quick example - Red spring - 140 psI starting x 320 ( maybe alittle To high engagement fir some ). hole #1 full hole 2-1 hole #3 -1

Now if you have a soft drive spring lets say 125/290 area

and lets say the thing was a little sluggish..... You can empty hole number #1 and then load up Hole-#2 & #3 and the throttle response and snappiness increases with a soft spring. ( I talked with Jack at Carls cycle and he likes the #2 turbo hole full )

Seems like its hard to send one spring for the drive clutch to make everyone happy, if anyone feels the kit is to aggressive or not aggressive enough you can just e-mail or call us for a different drive Spring.

it seems the 120 to 140 PSI are the 2 most commonly used.... I have several guys running 130 PSI but those springs are harder to find.

As for the Driven clutch the MTN 1 helix with either our standard issue 155/222 spring, or on occasion a few guys like the 140/200 less aggressive riders with lower boost.

I would like all to understand the main goal of the complete Turbo Clutch kit was ( BELT LIFE ) with the most low end throttle response possible. ( I do cut a few other helix's that shift faster and pull harder down low ). belt life could decrease with more aggressive helix's but will pull harder.

If anyone thinks its to aggressive we offer softer drive springs then the RED..... The weights were designed to NOT need 180 PSI springs that tend to break On occasion.

And I was also fully aware that there are riders from 130 pounds to 375 Plus..... and 144 tracks to 174 - pretty wide spread.

Its a clutch weight design exclusively for Turbos and there is really no right or wrong way to place magnets.
I strongly suggest you move them around and see what fits your style.

It seems people have pretty easily found a set up that works pretty good for them, and they seem pretty easy on belts to matter where the magnets are.

I am building 2 new Turbo weights...... 1 set lighter for the 600 to 700 turbo guys and a set heavier for high boost in the 85 max gram area. ( There is a guy named McCardy Running a one of a Kind 700 Turbo
IQR motor we built for him and he has a lighter set of Turbo weights we sent him to test. Hoping he chimes in if he sees this.

Thank you to all our Turbo 3 Customers !!

Dan
I may need to get my hands on some of these weights. Anyone running these on a d7?
 

indydan

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700 Turbos

I may need to get my hands on some of these weights. Anyone running these on a d7?

There are a few guys out there we built 700 WartHog Turbo Motors for that can pull the Turbo 3's
* McCarty Lord * and one of his biddies ( Not sure of their snowest names ) these guys really got their 700's. Running really good.

We did a few 600 Turbos that we did some custom drilling on the T3's to lighten them up a little for the smaller motors.




Dan
 
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richracer1

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Question for you guys.


This is my first turbo sled:


2016 800 Pro-RMK 163 with the 3.2" track
2019 Sidekick switch set for high pressure.
BMP head kit w/ low alt domes
BMP turbo pipe
BMP y-pipe
BMP Bully Dog turbo tune in the ECU
Pro-Ride QD sprockets with 3" pitch drivers
Usually ride around 7-9K elevation.



I just received my IS Turbo clutch kit and was wondering about magnet quantity and placement. The riding our group does is mostly climbing and very little in the trees (only to get to another hill).


IS shows a 3-0-2 magnet arrangement for 73g total (65g base weight with 5 magnets at 1.6g each). Does this sound about right or have you found something a little better?
 

indydan

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Question for you guys.


This is my first turbo sled:


2016 800 Pro-RMK 163 with the 3.2" track
2019 Sidekick switch set for high pressure.
BMP head kit w/ low alt domes
BMP turbo pipe
BMP y-pipe
BMP Bully Dog turbo tune in the ECU
Pro-Ride QD sprockets with 3" pitch drivers
Usually ride around 7-9K elevation.



I just received my IS Turbo clutch kit and was wondering about magnet quantity and placement. The riding our group does is mostly climbing and very little in the trees (only to get to another hill).


IS shows a 3-0-2 magnet arrangement for 73g total (65g base weight with 5 magnets at 1.6g each). Does this sound about right or have you found something a little better?

For the first ride I would always recommend starting out with the Turbo hole (2) with 3 grams and then put the balance of magnets in #1 & #3 to get to 73 to 75 grams area.


The throttle response is better...... Since you're not a tree rider its more response then you want.

You can always move away from the #2 turbo hole later...... But at least you get the feel of the sled with that hole full.

We have found that most people like that hole with 3 magnets

Dan
 

richracer1

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For the first ride I would always recommend starting out with the Turbo hole (2) with 3 grams and then put the balance of magnets in #1 & #3 to get to 73 to 75 grams area.


The throttle response is better...... Since you're not a tree rider its more response then you want.

You can always move away from the #2 turbo hole later...... But at least you get the feel of the sled with that hole full.

We have found that most people like that hole with 3 magnets

Dan

Thanks Dan for the help.
 
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mt.sledder

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What Indy Specility setup are guys running in their 850 Axys turbos. Tried the turbo 3 heavy weights with magnets as follows. 2 in hole 1, holes 2 and 3 full. They weigh 79.4 grams. Red primary, mountain 1 helix and I’m not sure about the secondary spring. The one I had in was all black and 5-1/2” high, not sure if that’s the spring Dan sent last year for the 800 Axys. At 7 psi and 6500’ was over revving. Had to drop to 5 psi and still ran at 8450 rpm. Was I running the right secondary spring? Sled also felt felt a little soft on the bottom end. The 800 axys with the same kit only just the turbo 3 weights at 74 grams ran on the money at 8400 rpm. Thoughts for improving the bottom end and getting back to the 7 psi spring without over revving?
 

indydan

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What Indy Specility setup are guys running in their 850 Axys turbos. Tried the turbo 3 heavy weights with magnets as follows. 2 in hole 1, holes 2 and 3 full. They weigh 79.4 grams. Red primary, mountain 1 helix and I’m not sure about the secondary spring. The one I had in was all black and 5-1/2” high, not sure if that’s the spring Dan sent last year for the 800 Axys. At 7 psi and 6500’ was over revving. Had to drop to 5 psi and still ran at 8450 rpm. Was I running the right secondary spring? Sled also felt felt a little soft on the bottom end. The 800 axys with the same kit only just the turbo 3 weights at 74 grams ran on the money at 8400 rpm. Thoughts for improving the bottom end and getting back to the 7 psi spring without over revving?
Ok, I have a few updates that should really help people ( update ) or purchase the correct Turbo kits since we now have a lot more to offer as rider abilities vary so much..... And more and more people are entering into the turbo world.

Mountain 1 & 2 helix's are maximum belt bite least experienced riders ( easiest to handle the sled in the trees with these two Helix's )

The Mountain 2 is one of the mildest Helix's we sell.
Mountain 1 Helix is our go to Helix we sell in most kits ( it's for beginner Turbo riders to mid experienced riders.... ( Hill climbers & tree ) not flat area racers.

Here's where things are in to you guys....

Turbo 3
Turbo 4
Turbo Extreme - very aggressive, for above average riders.
Turbo Extreme 2 - is in the works.... Even More bottom end shift speed harder to hang to handle bars down low ( even more track speed then Ext-1 down low ) - but mid-shift to wide open shift speed slows down for more belt bit.

Mountain 2 helix - spring most often used is 140/200
Mountain 1 Helix - spring most often used is 155/222

Turbo 3, & Turbo 4 depends on boost and rider ability.

Turbo Extreme1 - spring most often sold ( Black/Purple )
Turbo Extreme 2 - spring will most likely be 155/222

Our Website is in process of updates to help facilitate these kit updates.

Note of caution....Mountain 2 & Mountain 1 Heliex's are targeted for high elevation ( Climbing & boondocking only ) not drag racing your buddy on flat ground. They have The best belt life...... Neither kit is designed for holding sled wide open on flat ground with stock or lower gearing.

Also Note - Long factory center to center distances can cause the belt to hit the bottom of the driven and cause full throttle belt slipping...... It's always dangerous to hold under geared Turbo sleds wide open throttle on flat ground with little load form low gears...... If you have blowen belts at WOT most often your driven clutch ran out of travel.

Almost all Turbo sleds now days are geared to low......

So before you jump to any of our more aggressive helix's keep in mind that more often then not people would be better off gearing up and running our Turbo 1 Helix..... For maximum belt life and track speed.

Why are there an increasing amount of Helix's choices ?

Because the turbo clutching keeps getting better and people keep are talking to each other and tweeting what they have for there area and elevation and riding style and rider weight.

If you chose to run Polaris stock gearing and you are a fairly aggressive rider you might have to move into more aggressive helix's then the Mountain 1 & Mountain 2

Our Mountian 3, 4 Helix will be getting Re-branded as ( Turbo 3, & Turbo 4 ) and so on,......

Turbo extreme

Clutching will forever be confusing....... And vary center to center distances will always raise hell with trying to figure out .... ( WHY ) your is just a little different to tune then your buddies.

I hope this helps......oh and sorry for this ( we will never post our helix numbers ) and mountain 1,2,3,4 has not logical increase.... I will say this.. our mountain 2 is one of the slowest shifting helix's we sell....Max belt clamping.

Sorry I do not monitor clutching threads all that often..... Reason being..... I do love clutching but you can live on a clutching thread and never be able to sleep again.

So forgive me if I am not back for a while.

Happy Turbo riding !!

And thank you to everyone that runs our kits.

Dan
 
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hiherthanu

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purchased the Indy Specialty kit came with the M1 helix, weights and springs

I installed it as it was shippied, bottom end response was incredible, very impressive.

after riding it a few days i felt i could use more top end pull

phoned IS about my findings and was given direction as to use the M3

M3 pulled every bit as ahrd on the bottom and harder on the mid and top end
Dan warned me that things happen quite a bit faster with this helix so be prepared he wasnt lying!!

my set up as of now is red primary, 1-3-1 weights 75 grams black spring with the M3 helix

8400 +/- 100

very impressive
 
Dec 24, 2018
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i just bought an indy dan kit and waiting for it to come, riding like 0-600 sea level i think,
assault 155'' whit 2.5track, stock gearing, stock engine.
The turbo heavy kit,
where to start to put the weights in? and does it come whit double helix? i want it like sharp

And whats the difference if i move the weights?
thanks!!
 

snowracer21

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Almost all Turbo sleds now days are geared to low......

Forgive me for the dumb questions to follow...I'm still learning.

When we say "gear down", are we talking actually increasing the ratio.. for example, going from a 2.33:1 to a 2.53:1? This then by theory would create less load on the engine/clutches, & lower top speed, correct?

So, "gearing up" would be going from, say a 2.53:1 to 2.33:1, thereby increasing the load on the engine and increasing the top speed?

Am I following this correctly? Would it be ideal to gear up as high as possible while still maintaining the proper power curve? My thought behind it is, if the track is spinning, you might as well spin it as fast as you can (mountain riding).
 

A@ron

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what are you guys out in colorado running for weight? and hole set up?

I'm at 9-12k feet.
current weight is at 70g and the magnets are at 2-0-1
my engagement seemed a little high at 4500ish and I was only getting 8100rpm out of it

red primary with mtn 1 helix and black secondary spring

I'm going to drop a couple grams and put the magnets in number 2 hole and see what that does.

any tips?
 

indydan

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what are you guys out in colorado running for weight? and hole set up?

I'm at 9-12k feet.
current weight is at 70g and the magnets are at 2-0-1
my engagement seemed a little high at 4500ish and I was only getting 8100rpm out of it

red primary with mtn 1 helix and black secondary spring

I'm going to drop a couple grams and put the magnets in number 2 hole and see what that does.

any tips?
Hole #2 raises the engagement and low to mid throttle response.

Try #1 full and the other hikes empty for what explained.
 

richracer1

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Forgive me for the dumb questions to follow...I'm still learning.

When we say "gear down", are we talking actually increasing the ratio.. for example, going from a 2.33:1 to a 2.53:1?


So, "gearing up" would be going from, say a 2.53:1 to 2.33:1

You would be correct on both of these statements.

One could also use the terminology of:

lower gearing = gearing down

higher gearing = gearing up
 
Last edited:

richracer1

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Almost all Turbo sleds now days are geared to low......Dan

I'll take a guess that my 2.28 final drive ratio probably won't be put into this category??? LOL


My only other alternative is to put the Axys QD sprockets back on for a 2.12 final drive ratio.
 
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