• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

How to fix steering slop? 09 600 RMK

SaskRMK

Active member
Sep 7, 2010
433
39
28
Saskatoon,SK
My sled has horrible steering slop compared to the other 5 Polaris sleds in my shop, 2 being older with double the miles. I have pulled my air box and throttle bodies to discover that the metal plate connected to the bottom of the steering shaft is moving back and forth while the threaded shaft with lock nut is staying still.

I was able to get a stubby 14mm wrench onto the nut but it just continues to spin along with the shaft. I reached down with two hands to put upward pressure on the plate connected to the steering post while trying to tighten the nut but the shaft and nut still moved together.

It seams as if i would just be able to tighten this nut it would eliminate all slop. I felt underneath the threaded shaft to see if there was an allen head that needed to be held so the shaft didn't spin but was unable to feel anything. I was thinking the shaft may be splined or tapered but cant tell from my view. I hope that the hole on the tear drop shaped plate on the bottom of the steering post isn't ovalized from being loose over time.

Can anyone shed some insight on what i need to do to get this tightened?

Thanks



 
Last edited:

ripalip2

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2008
390
77
28
everett wa.
there is a slot in the threaded shaft coming out of the joint that you must hold while tightening the nut, i think its 1/2 inch or the thing will just spin in the joint
 

Roadbuilder

Premium Member
Premium Member
Dec 1, 2007
80
17
8
tighten tie rod end

I had the same problem. Take a inexpensive 1/2" wrench, cut the open end off, weld a piece of 5/16" rod to it to make a wrench about 20" long.

Reach in from muffler side and turn the nut from top with a long extension and socket until the wrench slips over the shoulder of the tie rod. You'll have to bend rod around to get it to fit through the maze.

Then tighten the nut with the socket and ratchet from above. Isn't easy but will work. It's a 2 man job.

You may have to take gas tank cowling off also ?

Good luck !
 

snowboatboy

New member
Oct 22, 2011
138
4
18
Petersburg Ak.
you could also take and bend the wrench about a 1/2 inch behind the head so it come out and sticks straight up off the bolt . just had my steering post out to fix, and it worked really well.
 

polaris dude

Well-known member
Jun 5, 2009
3,417
1,003
113
Grand Junction, CO
Okay, just talked to the dealer about my dad's. My dad had 2 inches of play in his steering, so they gotta take the engine out to put in new tie rods apparently. They said the parts were 70$ and it would take 3 hours to take engine out and install, then put it back. If you have that much play in yours you might have to as well.
 

SaskRMK

Active member
Sep 7, 2010
433
39
28
Saskatoon,SK
currently in shop and this is brutal! a regular wrenchi wont fit on the shaft because they are much to thick to fit beetween balljoint and below steering post plate. are you guys using normal wrenches? my joints are fine just circled nut has backed off and is very loose. i just cant get the wrench in to hold shaft. any tips? i leave to the lake tomorrow night
 

Race

Premium Member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
263
33
28
Trump, AK.
If you were to just tighten that bolt, what i did when I replaced my steering post on my 09 Assualt I think I just backed off the motor mount bolts on the Mag side and had my wife leverage the motor up so I could get my hand back there.

Edit: I used a 1/4 inch rachet set
 
Last edited:

SaskRMK

Active member
Sep 7, 2010
433
39
28
Saskatoon,SK
Thanks for all of the help guys i was able to get it tightened by myself. I made this tool from some flat bar and round stock it has a 1/2" section cut out of it. A regular wrench is to thick to fit so this tool worked perfectly to hold the shaft while i tightened the top nut. dont mind the welding!
 

diamonddave

Well-known member
Apr 5, 2006
4,845
2,191
113
Thieve Capital AKA Federal Way, WA.
Yes, this can be fixed without R&R'ing the engine.

Remove airbox and fuel tank. Get an open angle 1/2' crows foot and a very long extension and ratchet (I have a 36 incher). Place the crows foot below the tie rod which will be below the flange of the steering shaft. Now place a 9/16" socket with another long extension and ratchet on the lock nut. While holding the 1/2" crows foot, tighten the nut.

Easy as pie.

BTW, if anybody needs a new IQ-RAW Wildchild steering post, I have a brand new one that I will take off $30 for.
 

trench

Member
Nov 28, 2007
308
20
18
I hope your just tightening it will ...stay that way.
Cause mine loosed up again. ( pissed)

This time I removed the steering post and measured the hole it was way to big. I measured a new one as well same thing the hole is to big.
So I welded it on both sides almost shut then re drilled it , now its so tight even with out the nut being very tight... hope it stays that way.
 

BobRoss?

New member
Dec 27, 2018
5
0
1
Yes, this can be fixed without R&R'ing the engine.

Remove airbox and fuel tank. Get an open angle 1/2' crows foot and a very long extension and ratchet (I have a 36 incher). Place the crows foot below the tie rod which will be below the flange of the steering shaft. Now place a 9/16" socket with another long extension and ratchet on the lock nut. While holding the 1/2" crows foot, tighten the nut.

Easy as pie.

BTW, if anybody needs a new IQ-RAW Wildchild steering post, I have a brand new one that I will take off $30 for.
I know this is a old thread, but I confirm that this works. My sled was getting some bad steering slop and would actually pop when turned one way and move even more with a metallic clunk. Ended up being the tie rod nut on the Steering post was just a bit loose and the linkage was moving and popping out of place.