How to check an OFT Rollover Kit for proper functioning?

christopher

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On Weds 4 of us went out for a ride at Keg Springs in Island Park.

In the course of the day my son was doing some sidehilling with this 2009 Nytro and flipped it upside down on the side of the hill.

He got tossed off the sled and had to work his way back up to the upside down sled.

When help arrived, we rolled her back rightsideup and prepared to fire her up and keep on riding. But the OIL warning light was on as soon as he turned the key on. So we coasted the sled down to some flat ground to check the oil level.

Sure enough, as he pulled away from the rollover spot, there was a huge brown spot in the snow, and the dry sump was BONE DRY when we checked. In spite of the rollover kit being installed, the sled lost 100% of it's oil reserve.

Well, we were able to send a sled out to the trailer and get more oil, so it wasn't a huge disaster.

BUT, now I want to know what went wrong with the valve that was supposed to close the stop this from happening. My son was wearing the tether, and the tether key properly pulled out when he got tossed off the sled. So I would have thought that valve would snap closed just moments later??
 
Nov 26, 2007
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I want to know this too, I wanna get one but I want to know how to make sure it will not fail open and sure as hell want to know that it won't fail closed.
 

scmurs

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Take off the right side body panel.

Turn the key on ( engine not running ) and pull the tether clip out.

Put a finger on the valve and cycle the t-handle on the kill switch in and out.

You should be able to "feel" the solenoid opening and closing.

If is not opening and closing, check the red wire on the valve for 12V with the key on and tether clip pulled.

If you have voltage and no movement in the solenoid, the solenoid valve failed.

Let me know the results.

Scott
 

christopher

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The installed unit.



Closeup of the control Valve.


Voltage check on the RED Wire coming off the Control Valve.
 

christopher

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Went down.
Cycled the tether and the valve did NOT move.

But, the valve was WARM to the touch.

Disconnected the power plug and ran the voltage test which showed 12.4 volts.

Reconnected it and cycled the tether several more times and it worked perfectly each time.
 

scmurs

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I wonder if there could have been a piece of "crud" in the valve causing it to stick, but to be on the safe side, PM me your shipping information and I will get a replacement valve out to you guys.

Scott
 

christopher

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Thats really generous of you, but I hate to see you replace it if it just needs some kind of periodic cleaning / maintenance???


And I suppose the other question is, should those of us that use this check it from time to time as part of our "Pre-Ride" to make sure it's fully functional.
 

blackhillsnytro

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I have mine hooked up with an LED light, when the tether pulls the light comes on. I know this still shows the the valve is "supposed" to be closed and could still leak, but it helps. I can also hear mine click
 

detz1000

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I had mine freeze open in march due to warmer weather at home and then cold out west.Not a big deal just alittle oil in panel and can't freeze closed over night. Just can freeze open like stock.
 

christopher

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I have mine hooked up with an LED light, when the tether pulls the light comes on. I know this still shows the the valve is "supposed" to be closed and could still leak, but it helps. I can also hear mine click
I have the flashing red LED as well on mine.
But I have NOT gotten in the habit of checking it before we crank over the engine.

Obviously from now on I WILL listen!
 

blackhillsnytro

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Yeah I can usually hear mine click when I plug the tether back in, of course when it pulls out Im too busy cart wheeling through the air puckered up and the last thing I concentrate on is listening for the it!!
 

TRUEBLUEMAX

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Do you have the factory bar mounted kill switch still hooked up? In order for the valve to work the key must be on and the kill switch up. I ended up disconnecting my kill switch because I had the sled roll over and push the kill switch down and it disabled the rollover valve. Luckily I only lost a little oil in the process. May or may not be your situation but something everyone should be aware of. I say bag the factory kill switch. The kit comes with a jumper to bypass it.

Isn't I great to still be talking about riding this late in the year!
 

christopher

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Do you have the factory bar mounted kill switch still hooked up? In order for the valve to work the key must be on and the kill switch up. I ended up disconnecting my kill switch because I had the sled roll over and push the kill switch down and it disabled the rollover valve. Luckily I only lost a little oil in the process. May or may not be your situation but something everyone should be aware of. I say bag the factory kill switch. The kit comes with a jumper to bypass it.

Isn't I great to still be talking about riding this late in the year!
Dang.
Never even considered that as a possibility.
That could be EXACTLY what happened!
 

..SNAKEBIT..

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I did the kill switch delete for that, and it seems like I am allways trying to ride thru trees when the hole looks ALOT larger from the bottom of the hill
then a branch hits the kill switch and I'm stuck, NOT anymore.
I did notice one of the first times it was pulled the light never came on?
pluged it back in and out and it seems to be working fine.
a BIG thanks to OFT and the originator of the valve sorry cant think of his name.
 

towerrigger

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I have the OFT on mine with the kill switch delete. I still get a lot of oil coming out of the breather when rolling the machine to get unstuck. I've tested the valve and all seems to be ok. I always make sure that the key is on when rolling as well. I think some of it may be coming from the valve cover breather, but this should only happen when machine is directly upside down. Next year I will try seperating the valve cover breather tube from the oil tank hose, I have them joined at a filter.
 
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