How to access brake bleeder valve on 2015 RMK 800

[illbilly]

My brakes desperately need a bleed, but I can't figure out how to access the GD bleeder valve without pulling the entire coolant reservoir off. Seems like something this regular shouldn't be so hard.

Someone please tell me I'm being an idiot (and then throughly explain how it's easily done)

 

[go high fast]

I am also in desperate need of help for this problem. Can anybody out there advise on how to do this. Thank you.

 

[Teth-Air]

I was under the impression that they were somewhat self bleeding but if they don't return to normal when pumping the lever there does appear to be a bleeder (looks like a grease zirk) on the end of the brake cylinder. Just pump up the lever (with reservoir full) and while holding pressure open the bleeder, then closer before releasing the brake and start pumping it up again. Repeat several times while topping up the reservoir in between. If this doesn't fix your situation then your seals may be shot. As far as access can you get at it by removing the knee panel?

 

[NapaMatt]

FyI

Way easier to take the caliper off the sled to bleed it, then To try to bleed the caliper on the sled.

Don't have to take off the coolant bottle either

 

[go high fast]

Thanks Man!

That's what i was after.

 

[NapaMatt]

Also to Add..

Use a paper towel to soak up all the fluid in the master.. so you dont have to pump all the bad fluid through the system.

4 paper towels later you will have it all soaked up..

Fill up Bleed out.. Till you have fresh fluid.. Clear!!

also use dot 4

 

[go high fast]

What a MFPIA this is.

 

[NapaMatt]

Did you get it done?


Drop a caliper bolt?

 

[go high fast]

Thanks for checking in on me.

Have not yet attempted to remove the caliber since the two caliper bolts are also on the engine side and I am not convinced I can get a wrench to them. I spent the weekend trying to access the bleed screw with no success. Actually the access is not the biggest problem. The problem at this time is that I can't seem to find the correct size wrench for the bleed screw. I thought it might be 5/16 but no cigar. Possibly 6.5 MM but not sure. It seems to be the world's most carefully guarded secret. I've ordered a new master cylinder but sadly may have to make a trip to the dealer to install and bleed system. Completely disgusted with this aspect of the sled.

 

[J270wsm]

Yes it is a stupid location for the bleeder. It isn’t that hard to remove the calliper, so remove it and save yourself some frustration.

 

[go high fast]

I will give it a shot and keep you all posted.

 

[NapaMatt]

1/4" 6 sided. Socket.. long. Perfect fit. With caliper removed

13mm wrench..

You will only get a 20 deg swing, enough to do the job!

 

[go high fast]

OK so I stopped being a wuss and realized I was able to remove the caliper. Bleeding the brake line was actually a little bit more of a challenge than I thought and I ended up using a system where my wife would engage the brake lever while I opened the bleed valve and then I will close it before the air in the bleeder tube rose to the top and reentered the caliper. Did this many times. I was able to get it to the point where the brake would engage at about the halfway point. Also noticed that as I worked the brake lever I was getting air coming up through the line and bleeding through the brake. A couple of drops of thread locker and I reinstalled the caliper and re-zip tied a couple of lines and put the can and hood back on and off I went! Went for my first ride Saturday and by the end of the day to brake would fully engage at normal position and appears to be totally back to normal. I will check the reservoir level one more time before we head out for our final ride tomorrow at Lincoln.

Thanks to the Sledhed for lending me an old brake rotor he had sitting on the shelf that I was able to use on the caliper while I had the caliper removed. Worked like a charm.

Thanks to all the snow west folks who offered help!!

 

[NapaMatt]

glad you got it fixed!!

bbbrrraaapppp on