Anyone have any pictures of how they mounted their jack on side of tunnel? I've got older mounting brackets, from 2009 Polaris 700 RMK, and looks Ike the High Jacker Jack website has got newer updated brackets that will work better. Any info would be appreciated.
Help mounting "High Jacker Jack" on 2018 Summit SP 850 - 175" Gen4 sled?
- Thread starter acgreen
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You might consider making your own mounts to keep the highjacker in a low profile position so as not to be in the way while riding.
I used a small u-bolt through the tunnel just behind the brake rotor cover and a custom bolt toward the back of the tunnel. Once the "T" of the jack is nestled into the u-bolt, you operate the jack to force the plastic body up to the custom bolt and the pressure will keep it in place. For safety reasons I have a safety line with a clip attached to the end of the jack. The base is riding in my tunnel bag.
The u-bolt needs to have nuts on the inside and outside of the tunnel to keep it rigid. The custom bolt toward the back is a 3/8" bolt through an old car shock bolt bushing and some large fender washers. It is mounted through the side of the tunnel in a location that it does not effect the track in any way. I used a thin piece of 2" flat steel for a backup washer inside the tunnel. It has never pulled out through the tunnel on any of the sleds that I have attached it to. This jack has been with me through 5 different sleds and has become one of my best riding companions (tools).
Hopefully, you can see most of what I am talking about. If not, feel free to get back with me.
Can you post a picture of each mounting bracket position(front and back) without the jack attached. Looking for correct location. I have the same front bracket already. I'm sure I can come up with your same rear bolt. The older original rear bracket doesn't seem to fit my new sled side tunnel locarion well. Thanks for the info and picture!
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I understand that not everybody rides with a buddy or is physically fit but honestly that sled with a 175 should not get stuck very often but adding that heavy jack to the running board will make a heavy sled even harder to handle. There are many technics that you might want to learn that could be more beneficial than using a jack as it would be difficult to get the jack not to push down and get buried in deep snow before lifting the machine. Your riding may be different than ours but I know no jack would ever work where we ride. Not knocking you, only trying to understand the need?
OH THE MEMORIES this brings back.
I carried one of those beasts for YEARS on my YAMAHA.
It was a freaking LIFE SAVER everytime that beast TRENCHED itself down to the mountain beneath the snow.
I carried one of those beasts for YEARS on my YAMAHA.
It was a freaking LIFE SAVER everytime that beast TRENCHED itself down to the mountain beneath the snow.
I started riding about 1975 and and I'm now 74 years old. My group, that I ride with, have all different riding abilities. I probably don't need it but friends that previously used my jack thank me afterwards. I just feel more prepared for any situation. Never figured the weight of the jack was an issue on my previous sled. Had Artic Cat 900 that was heavy, so now a 850cc with 175", I can't wait to see how it will preform compared to previous sleds I've owned.
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Like anything you need to decide the value v.s. the hassle. I believe with that sled you will find it less needed.
Hunt down a Snobuddy - think that's what they were called. Search the internet, late 2000s. 5 piece cable operated lift, plus a base and lever, completely disassembed in case takes up the space of a unfolded belt. All aluminum, lots of machining. Same principle as a high jacker. Much more compact, more technical, takes longer to pull out and put together. Long-time riding bud had one - we used to bum into country were two guys shouldn't be with just all the usual tools, survival gear and a sat phone - his Snobuddy helped out in more than one tree hole and creek. Sleds were not as capable as now, but there's a use when you have less experienced riders, big risk takers, or just bad luck with a small group or couple of peeps.
i wish i would have known about these jacks a couple of years ago when i started sledding. would have saved time and my buddies' time since i'd be able to get unstuck myself.
i think it would still be useful to have as stucks still happen even with the really good riders in the group.
the "ultimate takedown" is the one i'd get.
thesnowjack.com
i think it would still be useful to have as stucks still happen even with the really good riders in the group.
the "ultimate takedown" is the one i'd get.
Save Your Back! Use the Snowjack! Don't spend day digging again.
thesnowjack.com
I use the "wedge" technique now. Lay on my back under front of sled, push up the front of sled with my legs. Once knees are locked straight it is easy to hold with one leg and push snow under front of track with other. Keep repeating with the sled rising more and more until vertical. Now it is easy to pull back level and the sled rear pops up and the track is on a solid base. Ride out. Alternately the sled is easy to rotate or flip or roll from the vertical position.i wish i would have known about these jacks a couple of years ago when i started sledding. would have saved time and my buddies' time since i'd be able to get unstuck myself.
i think it would still be useful to have as stucks still happen even with the really good riders in the group.
the "ultimate takedown" is the one i'd get.
Save Your Back! Use the Snowjack! Don't spend day digging again.
Sorry, but the sled is jammed into the trailer with other sleds and to get some better pictures would mean unloading them. Not quite ready to fire them up for the season just yet.
Plant the u-bolt just below the track (inside the tunnel) by an inch or so, and make sure that there are no extra threads sticking through the nut on the inside of the tunnel. If the track gets to flopping a bit at high speeds it could shred the edge. A 1/4" nut is thin enough that it should never be a problem if it is located under the track by a little bit.
As for the rear bolt, I located mine just back of the top idler wheel about 3.5"-4" higher than the track. This is due to the 3" paddle and track thickness. At this location, the suspension would have to be completely flat and the track would have to be angled upwards to come into contact with the nut. Again, I made sure there were no extra threads beyond the end of the lock nut that I used. This also puts the jack at a low enough angle that it does not interfere with jumping from one side of the sled to the other.
I got my jack when I had my Yamaha Apex. Now that thing was heavy. I have had the same jack since then, on every sled I have owned. When folks ask why I pack such a heavy thing like that jack I remind them that it only weighs 7 pounds and I have never had it interfere with my riding. And, no, I am not a trail jockey. For the 1500 miles, or so, that I put on my sled every winter I would imagine that about 30% of them are on trails. Trails get me to where I bail off for the day and go boon docking. 20-30 minutes down the trail to bail off and spend the next 6 hours exploring and riding the untouched areas we can find is a perfect day for me.
I have never experienced a situation that the jack did not compact enough snow to lift my sled out of hole. So, for the folks that don't think they will work or are a waste of time, that is their choice. When I get unstuck in pocket deep powder in the trees and they are still shoveling their butt off I will come watch and give some verbal encouragement. No problem.
For being in my mid 60s, jack and I are doing fine!!
I understand you getting the jack when you owned the Yamaha, especially if you ride alone or don't have a helpful crew. I carry a few specialized items for sled removal too but almost never pull them out, but nice to know they are there in an emergency. Ropes, straps, pulley, and the remote throttle device "Stuck-Mate" The Stuck-Mate is a goofy device but it lets you operate your throttle while pulling your own ski. It is amazing how much throttle control it gives you.
Thank 'TreewellDweller" for your info. I took a closer look at my sled and figured out location for brackets and same locations as you mentioned. Appreciate your help. I agree, the jack weight and location has never been an issue for me either.
Pictures show where I attached front "you bolt" and rear bracket. I placed front "you bolt" a little back and up to be out of way of my boot. Rear bracket was mounted as far back as I could go and have flat area to mount bolts to tunnel. Rear bracket is of the original style. I believe now rear bracket is of different design. Only issue I had was getting to the nuts on the ends of the "you bolts" with a wrench. Not much space and not able to put force on nut to start it on threads. Finally used ratchet wrench with masking tape, on outside of circle, to keep it in center of ratchet.
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Nice job! The jack weighs as much or less than a gallon of fuel. When it is on the sled and out of the way it is a no- brainer to have for some insurance so that one can get themselves unstuck. Anyone can run this jack while not everyone can lift the front of a sled. If you can, more power to ya, literally. Winter is on its way!
Treewelldweller came up with about the same as I made, including a leash. I made the base out of a piece of conduit riveted in place. I took a piece cut to about 4 inches. I split the conduit for 2 inches length wise, cut off the half and flattened it out.. I drilled holes for rivets in the flat and attached it.
There are competing products, both out of south central Colorado. Bill Harmon started it. The newcomer has a fancier handle and better marketing. If you want to see the one that started it, go to
There are competing products, both out of south central Colorado. Bill Harmon started it. The newcomer has a fancier handle and better marketing. If you want to see the one that started it, go to
High Jacker Snowmobile Jack
Please add make/model/year in the notes portion at checkout! The High Jacker lift is a snowmobile jack that quickly allows you to raise the rear of your sled after getting stuck in the snow. It is tall, easy to use, and mounts directly to your sled. The High Jacker is built from sturdy delrin...
high-jacker-snowmobile.myshopify.com
I will agree that today's sleds are less likely to get buried, but if they doo, that's a lot of snow in the rear susp.
And I understand that you have zero experience with this unit, but to say that it wouldn't work where you ride is pure speculation on your part, and actually completely wrong. This thing was designed and built in the central Colorado mountains. Not Sierra Cement.
Bill actually rides with a pair of them on his machine, and he rides alone a fair amount of the time, and he is not a young man anymore.
He makes it home on his own.
I prefer to roll it over or shovel a little before git'n the jack out, but to say that it is of little value is just not true, and someone peddling their own product here would seem to have some grace for another.
Sorry didn't mean to offend. What I meant about it not working where we ride is the terrain is too difiicult to have anything strapped on to the running boards and there would be a lot of ice and snow built up on it when trying to use it. If you want to carry it for me then I definately will use it.
