Help! Complete Nytro Setup

[sweidall]

I'm looking for complete setup suggestions. Its all new this year. Last year it was a blue 144 nytro with a 2inch track. Any suggestions? From air pressures in front and/or rear shocks to clutch setup. . I'm 5 11 and 245 pounds.

Current setup.
Push turbo with extra injector.
Roughly 8pounds in mn and up to 12 pounds at higher elevation.
Timbersled 162x15x2.5
19 and 39 gears.
Skinz front end.
D&D adjustable weights

I attached a pic of the sled because I'm wondering if I have the front shocks in upside down. Or does it matter?

Thanks in advance.

 

[justinkredible56]

I'm looking for complete setup suggestions. Its all new this year. Last year it was a blue 144 nytro with a 2inch track. Any suggestions? From air pressures in front and/or rear shocks to clutch setup. . I'm 5 11 and 245 pounds.

Current setup.
Push turbo with extra injector.
Roughly 8pounds in mn and up to 12 pounds at higher elevation.
Timbersled 162x15x2.5
19 and 39 gears.
Skinz front end.
D&D adjustable weights

I attached a pic of the sled because I'm wondering if I have the front shocks in upside down. Or does it matter?

Thanks in advance.

Your shocks are the right side up but some guys do run the shocks upside down. Not sure why, you'd think the travel on the shock would be the same in both positions removing any benefit of running them one way vs the other.

 

[TRUEBLUEMAX]

The one thing I would say would be to run the air pressure in your main chamber of your shocks kinda low like in the 55 psi range and keep the evol chamber pretty high like in the 120 range. I really wish I would have gotten the evol shocks when I did mine. It will make sidehilling in rough terrain so much better. It allows the shocks to move pretty freely through their range of motion and stiffen up before they bottom out.

While I'm sure there are other opinions on the shock setup in riding a friends setup like that I liked it a lot for keeping the sled on an even keel in rough terrain.

Nice looking sled!


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[sweidall]

Is that in front and rear shocks?

 

[TRUEBLUEMAX]

That is just the fronts. I don't really have experience with the timbersled skid setup so I am not much help there. Justinkredible runs a Timbersled though. You could probably start around 125 in the rear shock and 75-80 in the front skid shock. The rear shock setup is so dependent on rider weight and riding style that you really have to kind of dial that in yourself to what you like.

Just remember when you are making any adjustments to air pressure to do it with the suspension unloaded. Your readings will be way off if you adjust pressure with the sled on the ground.

 

[justinkredible56]

That is just the fronts. I don't really have experience with the timbersled skid setup so I am not much help there. Justinkredible runs a Timbersled though. You could probably start around 125 in the rear shock and 75-80 in the front skid shock. The rear shock setup is so dependent on rider weight and riding style that you really have to kind of dial that in yourself to what you like.

Just remember when you are making any adjustments to air pressure to do it with the suspension unloaded. Your readings will be way off if you adjust pressure with the sled on the ground.

It's true but I went with the coil over Exit shocks so I can't offer any insight.

 

[bholmlate]

Normally Aspirated Sled Slide shims: No shim on bottom & 0" shim on top (Up to 160 HP)

Front shock: 95 psi. In rearward mounting hole
Back shock: 145 psi. In rearward hole
Limiter strap: 3th hole down, using standard end hole on strap

Turbo Sled,10 psi of boost Slide shims: ½" shim on bottom & ¼" shim on top (Up to 230 HP)
[FONT=Arial,Arial][FONT=Arial,Arial] [/FONT][/FONT]
Front shock:60 psi. In forward mounting hole
Back shock: 155 psi. In rearward mounting hole
Limiter strap: 7th hole down, using standard end hole on strap

Turbo Sled, 15 psi of boost Slide shims: ¾" shim on bottom & ½" shim on top (Up to 280 HP)

Front shock: 55 psi. In forward mounting hole
Back shock: 140 psi. In forward mounting hole
Limiter strap: 5th hole down, using optional end hole on strap



Here is a base line setup from Timbersled web site for the rear mountain tamer It will give you a place to start It was part of the instructions for the kit. I would start there and adjust it for how you ride. one persons setup may or may not work for you. I you can contact skinz and talk to them. I know they gave people a baseline to start with for their front end kits.

Nice sled

 

[sweidall]

Thank you.

Any suggestions on clutching? Total grams or spring?

 

[M5-]

With a 162 and your body weight I'd swap the bottom gear to a 40, it'll help with belts. A cheaper option would be to run the 18 on top and keep the 39 bottom gear and a 68 chain. As for the Floats, when you are a big dude and fully dressed with pack etc, you have to run the floats with so much pressure that they just get harsh IMO. I've tried all the models of Float on the Nytro but in the end I swapped out mine for the Exits and it was a world of difference, made the ride super plush. May just be your next upgrade.


M5

 

[bholmlate]

Just bought a pair of exits for my nytro. That is good to hear M5 me being 250 geared up. Next year the back shocks get replaced if i like the front

I would talk to Hartmen Inc about clutching or jeff with Psychosled industries (motopsycho) on snowest. Rick with OFT Racing or the previeous owner of OFT scott (i think its scums) on snowest. They have clutching pretty well figured out as far as mountain riding with a nytro. Ulmar and the others have things dialed on the trails for the nytros.