Help...2016 M8000 LTD starts but won't rev up after riding and 15 to 30 minute rest

[North]

Didn't have much luck checking for spark, but it turned out to be a stuck open injector (I think). Every time I cleared the case enough to get it started I'd let it run itself out of fuel. Then I'd plug in the fuel pump and it would immediately flood itself again. Got some clicks out of the injectors with a 9V battery and smacked the ECU a few times and it ran great all the way out.

 

[sno*jet]

Only time mine would not start was after leaving it outside for a week or two with a cover, after riding it. loaded into truck one moring fine, would not start at sno park. I suspect condensation in the ecu or somewhere. fired up after sitting in warm shop couple days, never happened again, I try not to leave it outside for extended periods now.
Also the one time I ran it with ethanol fuel it was noticeably lower idle, wont touch that stuff again. I suspect a common trait you might find with people having these start issues is either leaving sled outside and/or running ethanol fuel. I rarely let my sled idle completely down before shutting the motor off. seems to fire up best when its still idling a little high after a pull and you shut it off. they run so rich when idled down, usually requires a crack throttle to fire first pull in those cases, maybe just mine. They do have different fuel mapping between the years I believe.

 

[North]

The no-start after cold nights seems to be relatively common. Mine started normally at the trailhead, eventually idled down and died 1x which was weird, but otherwise ran fine for 45min or so before flooding. So slightly different than the usual scenario. My sled has to live outside unfortunately, so can't do anything about that.

It's possible I got bad fuel. Pump truck was at the station while I was filling up so maybe the tanks were stirred up. Pump was running kinda slow. This is a new to me sled this season and only it's 4th or 5th ride out and it seems to be running the best since I've owned it after cycling the injectors.

I've read elsewhere on this forum that a bad exhaust temp sensor can create a short in the injector driver circuit, and cause the ECU to ground one or both injectors. Not sure how plausible or common that is but maybe I'll test my ETS.

 

[North]

Update: Fixed some other issues on this sled (electrical) but just yesterday found chafed injector wires where they meet the main harness by the VR. Guessing that was my issue.

 

[spoon]

Update: Fixed some other issues on this sled (electrical) but just yesterday found chafed injector wires where they meet the main harness by the VR. Guessing that was my issue.

Thats great. Another thing that I found made my 16 run 100% better was a decent porting job. The ECU is so rich that an aggressive port job from Arctic Edge works great with no fuel controller. Runs consistently better from idle to full throttle and added 3 grams weight to each weight to keep RPM happy. The power difference is huge. Cost= 800$ CDN. A few other goodies I added made even more power, still no controller. Other option is to get a 10-14 ECU as those were mapped leaner (10-11 leanest). I see new and used ones for sale for under 300$. Just need to match the symbol on your current one.