Grip n rip alighnment tool?

Devilmanak

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Dec 13, 2007
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I would like some hard data also, as far as belt life before and after "alignment." Lots of data as far as Grip n Rip numbers, but they are the ones coming up with the numbers, maybe BRP puts the alignment where it should be? And I have a very hard time believing that BRP doesn't account for load for alignments. I think they have built a few sleds and know a few things. My 19 sleds were great on belt life, no reason to think that my 20 sleds wouldn't be even better. Again, just riffing, before and after stats would be great, otherwise I am not spending $300 on the tool and messing with something that someone engineered with a hell of a lot more smarts than me. ;)
 

tinkerjohnson

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Dec 12, 2008
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Southern utah
I would like some hard data also, as far as belt life before and after "alignment." Lots of data as far as Grip n Rip numbers, but they are the ones coming up with the numbers, maybe BRP puts the alignment where it should be? And I have a very hard time believing that BRP doesn't account for load for alignments. I think they have built a few sleds and know a few things. My 19 sleds were great on belt life, no reason to think that my 20 sleds wouldn't be even better. Again, just riffing, before and after stats would be great, otherwise I am not spending $300 on the tool and messing with something that someone engineered with a hell of a lot more smarts than me. ;)
It's easy to say brp has them good enough antill you actually have the tool on there and make the measurements and see just how far off they really are. I have done 3 now 2-19s- 1-20 and brp is pretty consistent all 3 took about the same shimming to get inline. The numbers they give aren't pulled out of the air. But like I said it becomes more obvious when you put the tool on and measure for your self to see. And when your done shimming you can see how your clutches are perfectly aligned on all Plaines. Center to center, top to bottom, left to right and the offset. But it's a belt it can twist and flex. It's probably not for everyone, most guys don't care. I'm more of a get it right and ride without wondering when I blow a belt if that's why I guess.
 
Dec 19, 2007
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I have also done several 19's, 17's, and several from past years of all different chassis, as I'm sure several here have. Speaking to the G4's, the 19's all took about the same to make them line up under load. The 17's took a bit more work and shims to get them to align. Belt temps have gone down on all dramatically compared to previous. One of the biggest and best differences is the changing of the torque stop. This has been consistently poor from the factory for years on all the previous chassis' as well. I haven't seen an XP or XM come through the shop yet that actually had the torque stop down on the rubber pad as it's suppose to be. While my opinion is that it should be on the pad is just that, it is also what is stated in the shop manual for all summits. All of them I've seen are all the way up from the factory giving them the most movement allowing the engine to rock and tearing the motor mounts apart prematurely. Same holds true for the 850's, too much space in the stock torque stop allowing too much movement. The pre-loader though does allow you to remove this space though to get the alignment right for running under load. I realize that they are trying to reduce the vibrations from the engine into the sled and bars for a more comfy ride but as for performance it's a disservice to the customer ultimately costing them more money down the road in belts, clutch parts, and motor mounts. My .02...
 

Gremon

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Colorado
Our group of four went in together on the tool. We have 3) 17’s and 1) 18. They were all off under load. 2 of the 17’s were very similar. One 17 and the 18 were completely different. If BRP has a system to set the alignment, it’s broken. I thought they would be much closer to each other to meet some sort of factory spec. I blew one belt on my 17 at 600 miles. After the alignment I have not even smelled the belt. I have not taken temps off the clutches but they seem to stay cooler by feel. (Not scientific, but I know hot from extremely hot) We will be aligning another 18 and a 19 freeride next week, it will be interesting to compare their numbers.
 

caper11

Well-known member
Nov 2, 2008
692
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Northern alberta
I would like some hard data also, as far as belt life before and after "alignment." Lots of data as far as Grip n Rip numbers, but they are the ones coming up with the numbers, maybe BRP puts the alignment where it should be? And I have a very hard time believing that BRP doesn't account for load for alignments. I think they have built a few sleds and know a few things. My 19 sleds were great on belt life, no reason to think that my 20 sleds wouldn't be even better. Again, just riffing, before and after stats would be great, otherwise I am not spending $300 on the tool and messing with something that someone engineered with a hell of a lot more smarts than me. ;)
Ive been aligning belts and equipment for years. Thermal growth plays a big part of a successful alignment,

I still believe the problem is the clutching calibration, cause ive proved that already.
I have 500miles on my original belt, on my 19my sled, Still looks like new. More miles on a 19 turbo running a 391 belt. I have seen a smoking hot secondary go from broiling water on it, to being able to hold your hands on it just by changing the secondary spring.

Im not sold on this tool being a solution, but a bandaid for the problem.
 
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Shortline

Well-known member
Feb 24, 2016
139
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WA
Anyone near idaho falls have the tool and doing/helping with alignments? Happy to give some compensation.
I have the same inquiry about the north of Seattle or Wenatchee area (I go back and forth). Would also be willing to compensate.
 

DITCHBANGER

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Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
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I have also done several 19's, 17's, and several from past years of all different chassis, as I'm sure several here have. Speaking to the G4's, the 19's all took about the same to make them line up under load. The 17's took a bit more work and shims to get them to align. Belt temps have gone down on all dramatically compared to previous. One of the biggest and best differences is the changing of the torque stop. This has been consistently poor from the factory for years on all the previous chassis' as well. I haven't seen an XP or XM come through the shop yet that actually had the torque stop down on the rubber pad as it's suppose to be. While my opinion is that it should be on the pad is just that, it is also what is stated in the shop manual for all summits. All of them I've seen are all the way up from the factory giving them the most movement allowing the engine to rock and tearing the motor mounts apart prematurely. Same holds true for the 850's, too much space in the stock torque stop allowing too much movement. The pre-loader though does allow you to remove this space though to get the alignment right for running under load. I realize that they are trying to reduce the vibrations from the engine into the sled and bars for a more comfy ride but as for performance it's a disservice to the customer ultimately costing them more money down the road in belts, clutch parts, and motor mounts. My .02...
The G4 mounting is a mistake that the knucklehead BRP engineers refuse to accept, 3 mounting points make no sense, there is way to much movement and add in a fixed secondary. I did the shimming and yes it did help(along with a SHR clutching set-up) but also raised vibes in the bar, some say no difference but there was a noticeable difference. You are right about a disservice to the customer, I bought a poo 850 and its a world of difference with cool clutching with zero venting or blowhole, motor is mounted as it should, smooth through the bars.
 

Thistledoo

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I have had a 2017, 2018, 2019 and now a 2020 expert...(all 165s)...we ride the same zones and style year after year. My 2015 and 2016 T3 never blew a belt all season....2017 I blew 12, 2018 I blew 5, 2019 we got the tool....rode 1500kms in the same zones as 17/18 and never blew a belt, granted we never had T!T deep snow like previous years but I ride my sleds the same year after year and we feel the alignment procedure has helped for sure. My 2020 I also aligned out of the crate and so far only 3 waist deep days but clutch temps are acceptable...when I drop snow on the belt or clutches its melts away...it doesn't evaporate like it did in 17/18!! But hey each to there own, the motor mounts in 2019 helped a ton, but I want my belt perfectly aligned at 8000 rpm busting trail in waist deep...I could care less what the alignment is at idle:D
 

mtnxtreme1

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redding ca.
I have a 2019 165 summit have not lost a belt around 700 miles but it gets hot in the deep snow
I was trying to make up my mind on weather or not to buy the alinement tool reading this thread sold me im ordering it up tomorrow
thanks guy's
 

snowmanx

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Aug 13, 2001
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Polson, Montana
I have had a 2017, 2018, 2019 and now a 2020 expert...(all 165s)...we ride the same zones and style year after year. My 2015 and 2016 T3 never blew a belt all season....2017 I blew 12, 2018 I blew 5, 2019 we got the tool....rode 1500kms in the same zones as 17/18 and never blew a belt, granted we never had T!T deep snow like previous years but I ride my sleds the same year after year and we feel the alignment procedure has helped for sure. My 2020 I also aligned out of the crate and so far only 3 waist deep days but clutch temps are acceptable...when I drop snow on the belt or clutches its melts away...it doesn't evaporate like it did in 17/18!! But hey each to there own, the motor mounts in 2019 helped a ton, but I want my belt perfectly aligned at 8000 rpm busting trail in waist deep...I could care less what the alignment is at idle:D
So, I just shimmed my engine. THE VIBRATION IS ERRIBLE. Has anyone else noted this after shimming the engine? Anything to do beside take them out? Thanks
 
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