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Grenaded the TA / Crank Run-Out

Ox

Snowest's Axe Murderer
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Jul 8, 2001
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Two of the arms are broken.

I'm guessing that an arm failed first, and then the train derailed?

We never found most of the parts, but it put a big rip in the hood and destroyed the clutch pop-out side panel.

It didn't drag out of the bush all that easy - even with a 3" paddled 165!

How common is this failure?
I've not seen it before.


Next ?:

We now have prox .010 run-out at the tip of the crank journal.
Not that I checked it before....

Is this in any way acceptable?

I'm just guessing that it is prolly 3x out f spec, but that's just a guess.



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DSCN2327.JPG DSCN2326.JPG
 
Last edited:
N
Jan 3, 2008
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Northern Utah
Ouch. Weve blown up a mtn max clutche like that but never a ski doo.
You and others might cringe when you hear this method but if this a just a dink around sled this works. Get the crank at its highest point and grab a small 2x4 and a bfh. A brass drift would work well also. Whack that mofo and see if it moves down. Weve moved the mtn max crank back into spec doing this. Pretty redneck but it worked for us. I would never do it on my newer stuff. Ideally less than .003 is spec. I think you could be happy with .005
 

Ox

Snowest's Axe Murderer
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I think that I identified the problem as a pin that slipped out, and the arm rubbing on the ramp area by it'self.
You would think that it would bind, but apparently not.
The last couple of rides were not "on the juice" type requirements, so likely didn't notice much performance difference.

Gunna pull the crank out and straighten it myself as I can't find anyone in the area that wants to doo it for me.

.
 
N
Jan 3, 2008
734
311
63
34
Northern Utah
Thats definitely the best way to do it. Guess I should of explained my method was with the engine still in the chassis. :eek: But once you get it split and out its still pretty much the same method.
 
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