• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Genral maintance for GEN 2 sleds.

Jun 16, 2009
2,866
97
48
Marshfield, WI.
These sleds are getting older now and keeping them up is most inportant now more then ever . Post up genral prone problems and the fixes you know of . Some of the main things to stay on top of are changing oil in chain case yearly and clutch maint. grease all zerk points and rear skid. watch hifaxes . Carbs clean and working properly . check reeds and carb boots.
 
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retiredpop

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 3, 2001
1,112
238
63
Calgary
This is maintenance for all sleds. Remove the skid frame and check all cross shafts for wear. Replace if needed. When you have them out you can clean out the tubes that they sit in because there is usually some old dried grease in there. Good time to check the wheel bearings for roughness. Check hyfax for wear. They are a lot easier to change with the skid out. Check exhaust springs to see if any are missing. Tighten exhaust manifold bolts for tightness. If oil is leaking from them replace the gaskets.
 

Scott

Super-moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 1, 1998
69,023
11,151
113
47
W Mont
Make sure you driveshaft and jackshaft bearings are still good...and lubed too.

Replace chain.

Crankshaft runout.

Steering post bent?

Ski skegs?
 

JustinB

Well-known member
Dec 22, 2008
1,691
645
113
84050
Check compression if it blows on the mountain you might have to hike out. Look at your belt surprised no one said this. also look at your track found 3 screws in my paddles this year??? With racing moto check all bolts on the sled had my drive clutch bolt back out and screwed the whole clutch last year.
 
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kinnr3

New member
Premium Member
May 9, 2008
19
0
1
43
lancaster, pa
check your coolant hoses for any cuts, scrapes, or wear spots, I found 2 bad wear spots last night on mine and need to replace the hose, see ya, ron
 
At the end of every season, I bust down my clutches, and remove springs so they are not under pre-loads all Summer, also drain Gas from the carbs, drop chain case oil, release tension on torsion springs, and prop up front end so shocks are not under pressure
 
check oil pump.

Another good way to check the oil pump and lines can be donw when checking the water pump belt. When the pull start housing is off you can check the pump while its still conected to the housing. First disconect all the oil lines from the motor. Then use an electric drill to spin the pump. while the pump is spining make sure each line is flowing fluid.
 

flying pig

Well-known member
Jan 17, 2008
607
60
28
34
Wembley Alberta Canada
bulkhead

watch for tunnel warping and cracking near the chaincase. Also if you are running some hp watch the strap on the bulkhead on the chaincase side that runs under your motor for cracks. Also the front motor mount posts on the bulkhead will break off with hp.
 
is it normal to find metal like fuz on the chaincase dipstick magnet?whare is the drain located on my 2000 800 rmk,im a little new to owning my own sleds but im mechanically inclined to the non technical stuff,i was ridding groomers on rabbit ears yesterday and the temp indicator came on e
we were climbing fairly steep grade on groomer,but it went out after we started going back down then climbing out it went on again and started runnin like crap,for a ways our speed was 10 to 15 mph temp was around 25,i dove into some ungroomed snow and it ran fine in an instant,and the temp light went out is there things i can check to make sure things are ok,or is that normal for riddin groomers,any help would be appreciated.
 

X2Freeride

Well-known member
Jan 25, 2009
1,546
580
113
35
What happened was your sled got to the point where it was too hot and the ECU went into limp mode to protect the sled. Trail riding RMK's this situation can occur fairly regularly as the cooling is not good enough on groomed trails or hard pack. If your going to ride alot of trails you may want to look into adding a larger U cooler.


As for the metal shavings in the chain case its normal wear of the chain and gears to see some. Hence the reason why there is a magnet at the end of the oil dip stick. If there are TONS of shavings then you have a problem.
 
Jan 18, 2010
14
5
3
Washington
water pump bearings

Check your pull chord for wear and replace if need be. I also recommend removing the pull start assembly to access the water pump belt. Check over the belt for cracks and replace it if its more than a few years old or you see cracks developing. The belts are expensive but it's alot cheaper than toasting your motor due to overheating and/or losing the lubrication from your oil injection pump. When you have the water pump belt off of the sprockets, turn the water pump by hand and make sure the the bearings are tight and smooth rolling with little resistance. I recently had the bearings seize up on my first ride out this season. When the water pump sprocket stopped turning as the bearings seized, I toasted the belt when it jumped off the sprocket and got twisted up. Shortly after this all happened I overheated. I caught it very quickly so no motor damage but I got lucky. Most folks don't!!! Aside from that hit all your zirc fittings with grease and do a visual inspection for worn parts. I found a bunch of exhaust springs that had almost worn through the hooks which attach them. They get thin from vibration and corrosion and then start breaking off at inopportune times. Good luck.
 

Scott

Super-moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 1, 1998
69,023
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W Mont
After this much time, get those shocks rebuilt, upgraded or replaced.

Keep your hifaxes fresh.
 

C S Fever

Active member
Aug 30, 2009
149
28
28
Saskatoon,SK.
Check the skid suspension, especially the front frame the cross shaft will wear and the tube will crack and in some cases be broken. Every Gen 2 I have owned I have either rebuilt or replaced that front mount frame (weak point in the design)!
 

theultrarider

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,311
888
113
Soldotna Alaska
Just plain replace the bearing on the clutch end of the driveshaft! 2 Years is the longest I will run them even if you grease them. It is a real b!tch to try to get a sled out of the mtns when the tracks won't turn! Cheap to replace, and simple when in a nice warm shop and everthing is clean and dry.
 

judger101

Well-known member
Sep 2, 2008
342
132
43
33
Washburn, ND
i had a 2000 800 rmk for a number of years. here are the things that i had happen to me.

-speedo driveshaft bearing toast
-leaking chaincase cover (get a new gasket)
-blew a belt (make sure when you do to make sure you didnt get any pieces wrapped around your crank, i did and it blew out my seal)
-you must reinforce your steering post or get a new one or you will bend it
-motor mounts busted
-boost bottle got a leak in it, a crack
-shocks, either get new ones or rebuild then, this is often neglected
-check bearings in your idler wheels
 
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