• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"


    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.


General Edge Issues that result in bad engine performance.


Well-known member
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Dec 27, 2007
[IMG alt="whoisthatguy"]https://www.snowest.com/forum/data/avatars/l/53/53526.jpg?1593366804[/IMG]


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1. Check the front left engine mount as they tend to get torn in the 800, allow twisting of the crankcase, which then causes all kinds of engine problems.
2. If the air suction hose from the bottom back of the crankcase, has been replaced with a red plastic hose, due to the 02 crankcase hose connector not having a bend in it, the red hose can get warm from the engine and kink over causing loss of suction to the fuel pump and fuel starvation.
3. The high beam light connector can cause low rpm engine problems when it burns out. Disconnect it to check.
4. A bad reed in the reed valves causes low rpm engine problems. They need to seal when in the at-rest position. Old ones don't seal and cause loss of compression. Broken ones are even worse requires extremely high rpm to keep the engine running.
5. A leaky VES valve gasket will cause engine problem. Look for tears in both the flat gasket and the rubber diaphragms. While you are at it, check the metal guillotines for impact dents. Replace if has impact dents. If they are not getting stopped at the correct location, they could take out the rings and pistons.
6. Check for choke lever having 1/4" to 3/8" free play before it starts to engage on the carburetor. This problem can appear at any time and cause the engine to rev up slow, not be able to go above 6000 rpm and kick on the DET retard. One mysterious reason can be found at the tiny plastic choke lever box that is attached to the front side of the dash board. The cable feeds into this box through a plastic cap. That plastic cap can become dislodged at any time from just moving the choke cable around or moving the carburetor around. Once that cap comes out of the box, then your choke cable no longer has any free play, which then causes the slow revving and low rpm issues. Another possible reason is the expansion of the casing surrounding the choke cable, when the engine heats up. This may kick the choke just on enough to cause the engine retard to kick in.
7. Look for the suction hoses from the carburetor to the air box to be in place and plugged in at both ends.
8. Look for corrosion inside of the spark plug, rubber plug connector cap. Replace if corrosion is present.
9. Check for idle rpm set too low on top of carburetor.
10. Rear track idler wheel bearings are under extreme stress. All of the rear idler wheel bearings should be replaced with a $10 bearing at 2500 miles or whenever those wheels do not spin freely around your thumb when holding them. All other track idler wheel bearings can be replaced with $3 bearings as required. If you take them off and spin them, you can tell whether there is any grease in the bearing anymore. Replace the bearing if there is no more grease, even though it spins.
11. Front track drive sprocket bearings are also critical. The left side bearing should be regreased with the xerxes fittings every 200 miles. If you have never greased that bearing, it will disintegrate and cause your speedometer to no longer give you speed readings because the key in the middle of the drive shaft axle, has sheared off. Regardless of how often you regreased the left bearing, it will be shot at 2500 miles or sooner. The right side bearings get plenty of lubrication from the chaincase oil and last much longer that the left side.
12. A bad water pump drips coolant out a little hole on the right front of the water pump housing. If you have a serious drip, then it is time to replace the guts of that water pump, which is no easy task. If the engine over heats and you cannot find the cause, the nylon lock nut that holds the water pump impeller onto the pump shaft, may have loosened enough to contact the bottom side of the water pump's top housing. This causes the water pump impeller to seize, engine overheating and a possible broken water pump belt as well.
13. At the large drive sprocket inside of the chaincase, there is a nut and washer that hold the large sprocket on the drive shaft. If this nut is not loctited and torqued as specified, then it could work it's way off the drive shaft, causing the chain case to suddenly seize.
14. A bad temperature sensor thermostat on top of the cylinder cover, will cause the engine to not start. Since a good sensor completes the electrical circuit of the two wires that run into it, the sensor can be checked by unplugging it, and then connecting those two wires in the electrical harness, with a U-shaped wire that has enough insulation stripped to get a connection at the two wires.
15. A thermostat can get so hot that it becomes misaligned and gets hung up in a partly open position. This can cause overheating.
Last edited:


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Lifetime Membership
Nov 2, 2017
Roberts, MT
The two big things I've personally seen on my 600 are disintegrating carb boots and a failed speedo side driveshaft bearing. The dead giveaway on the bearing is if the speedo dies; the 800 I parted out also had a smoked that bearing. The good news is, as long as you don't run it too long, it usually doesn't hurt anything else. The carb boots are something I look at every year now. I noticed something wasn't right at the end of the year a couple seasons back, and discovered both had tears in them, big enough to let air in. I was lucky there: if I'd run it long and hard enough like that, the air leaks would have burned down a piston. I also had a headlight switch go bad, but didn't affect anything – just something to keep in mind and replace when you notice it doesn't feel like it used to. I also had to replace the plunger for the choke cable last season after the starter handle flopped into and broke it. Good idea to have a spare on hand (fortunately, a fellow SnoWester had one on hand), but you can avoid that by following the handle back in rather than just letting it go.

Really, I'd say 90% of the potential problems with these sleds can be avoided by giving everything a look over before the first ride of the season. If you're working on something that requires pulling the motor, that's a good time to replace the fuel and oil lines, motor mounts if they're sketchy, and clean out the engine bay. Most sleds have a bunch of gunk and debris under the motor, and that can be a great fire-starter!


Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 27, 2007
16. Poor compression test below 115 psi means you have ring, piston or cylinder wall issues.
17. Oil can thicken in the carburetor injection holes over the summer, and result in a seizing of that particular piston.
18. Using improper O rings in the cylinder head that are not high temperature, will cause melting of that O-ring, coolant inside the cylinder and piston, ring and cylinder wall issues.
19. Stators and CDI boxes can suddenly go out at any time and with no warning.
20. The oil pump can suddenly stop functioning for no apparent reason. Verify that the oil level is dropping with each ride and that it is using oil at the rate of 40 parts gas to 1 part oil. Reverse oil pumps are not required for engines with PERC reverse. Unless you intend to race the sled backwards for several miles.
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