Gearing down...

[kanedog]

So what's a definite answer for my 2017 with 21/53 154 3inch on clicker 3 and riding 7 to 95 elevation with hot belt temps

20 tooth top gear for a 154 and smile! More power to the ground, more acceleration, less belt heat. What could go wrong?

 

[kanedog]

I did the gear down on my 175 recommenced on this thread. I’m pretty picky about who I take recommendations from on the internet and rarely take advice from guys named Ace or Dog but I wanted to try this. Did the gear change right before the huge snow dump we had a couple weeks ago, rode 4 straight days in 4-5 FEET of pow.
This is actually the first time I’ve made a clutching change and felt a dramatic improvement. I’ve done ALL the updates available from new and the only thing I could really feel was adding weight last year. This gear down actually feels like the sled is making more significantly more power. My engagement is 3800-4000 but on the snow it’s super smooth. I ride a lot on the G4 1/4-1/2 throttle, this engine makes so much torque you can get 8000 rpm on half throttle a lot. Going flipper to the bar just digs DEEP holes most of the time.
One thing I also noticed is it feels like the sled is using all of the primary now, like is has an extra gear on top and it just rolls so smoothly thru the full range. I was getting 40-41 mph track speed on the gauge in bottomless pow at 275 lbs ready to ride and another 20lbs on the tunnel.
I had a 19 tooth from my XM so it was essentially free for me but I’d highly recommend this $30 upgrade. Thanks Ace and KaneDog

Haha, I don’t blame you for being skeptical. A couple clowns on the internet called Ace and Dog, you never know what can happen!
The $30 gear down always amazed me also. It does so much for the performance and heat. I haven’t done a side by side with a $500 clutch kit but I can’t see a clutch kit doing as much for heat. For 30 bones how can you go wrong, right?
Thanks for the ride report. Others can use your experience to guide their performance decision !

 

[Ox]

Depending on your riding location, and how often you ride in heavy snow, going with the 20 may be a good choice.
I have the 19, and while it's fine, I don't go too fast.
It's been said - prolly in this thread - that you can somehow shred a belt if you bottom out the clutch.
I haven't had the new clutch apart, so not sure what is going to doo that?
20 may be a fair compromise?

19 and no chain change.
I think the chain is pretty tight at 21, so you would need to drop [four] teeth before you could put a smaller chain on.

The 19 is stock gearing for the 175 I think.

.

 

[jcjc1]

i ended up ordering the 19t as i figure if i get the 20t i'd still be wondering about how much better the 19t performs since it seems no one goes with the 20.
i have zero interest in trail riding other than to get from one area to another, or top speed and the trails get pretty whooped out anyway. plus i don't want to be shedding 3" lugs off the track.
i think the danger of bottoming out the belt in the secondary is from hitting the pivot studs. i've had my secondary apart and remember thinking it was odd that i could feel the tops of those studs above the jack shaft but it obviously works fine so i didn't worry about it.
thanks for the input!

 

[kanedog]

i ended up ordering the 19t as i figure if i get the 20t i'd still be wondering about how much better the 19t performs since it seems no one goes with the 20.
i have zero interest in trail riding other than to get from one area to another, or top speed and the trails get pretty whooped out anyway. plus i don't want to be shedding 3" lugs off the track.
i think the danger of bottoming out the belt in the secondary is from hitting the pivot studs. i've had my secondary apart and remember thinking it was odd that i could feel the tops of those studs above the jack shaft but it obviously works fine so i didn't worry about it.
thanks for the input!

Right? You look at those studs and think “this is dumb!”
I deepened the space where the stud heads go in by .100” and shaved off some bolt head to get around it. I never got around to installing it tho.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

BRP gear chart shows 19-53 with 116p chain. I can say the chain gap in the case will be about 1.0 inch apart from each other. No big deal because there is no tension on the arc of the chain going around the slider shoe in the case on full or part throttle. Only time there is tension on the adjuster shoe is on reverse and/or engine braking.

I used the 114P (P/N 504153393) chain it does not come close to touching each other

https://www.dootalk.com/forums/uploads/monthly_08_2018/post-4800-0-54964900-1535472369.jpg

article on belt hitting pivot studs and the "ridge" on the transition from angle to relief.

iBackshift.com - Gearing

Primary clutch spring engagement forces
1/2 of previous winter and all this winter, with the help of Daltonindustries, I've made different primary clutch springs with lower start forces to lower engagement speeds. Right now have all my test guys at 27~2800 rpms, except in CO because of the lesser pivot weight there, engagement at 3000 rpms.

I can bring the sheave to touch the belt at 2700 and the sled starts to budge at 2800~2900.

Heh...I even got the 2020.5 x 850 turbo now at 2700 rpms and it moves the sled at 2900 and stands that som-beotch up on its tail if you want.

 

[Pownar]

Does anyone have the part number on the 20T?

 

[jcjc1]

Venom has them-I got my 19T from them.

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