Garbage clutch pullers?

[cortez]

has anyone else experienced absolute garbage primary removal tools like I recently have? I made the switch over to Polaris this year (2017 AXYS 155-3”) and was quick to pick up a SLP stage 2 kit. When it came time to install it I went down to my local dealer (to remain nameless... for now) to pick up a primary removal tool. I was a bit surprised to find that the tool was nearly double what the cost was on the Polaris parts site ($75 vs $40CAD), but I was told it was a more robust tool than the polaris tool for $40. Take it back to the shop to pull the primary, give it the tension/tap/tension routine with a 16” breaker bar, never seize on the threads and tip.. starts to get fairly tight but not excessive by any means.. remove the tool to inspect and it’s bent?! Clutch is still on the sled.

So I take it back to the dealer to discuss, they basically laugh me out of there.. telling me that “they all bend, nothing we can do for you”. I’ll be honest this pissed me off. Ended up using it again, and getting the primary off, and now the tool is Bent even more and actually contacted the internal threads on the crank.

So now I’m looking at the tool. It appears to be a machined piece of cast hex bar. What a joke, so glad I paid double for it.. lucky the thing never snapped when it bent.

So, now that my rant is over. Who would be interested in a primary removal tool that is more durable (actually useful for more than one removal)? I work at a machine shop and I’m going to use this piece of junk as a sample to machine a proper tool, if there’s interest I can figure out what they would cost and can start making runs of them. Thinking 4140 bar or similar, hoping to keep them under or around the $100 mark.

Any interest let me know!?

Cheers.

 

[WAsledder]

My removal tool bent and actually damaged the threads on my crank...luckily I was able to rethread it. After that I cut the bent tip off my tool and used the water method. It's way easier and you don't need an expensive tool!

 

[nosman4]

I'd be interested in one that doesn't bend, but in my experience they all do. Would have to be pretty stout not to. I tighten my puller in quick pulls and it usually pops the clutch off pretty easy, going slow seems to bend the puller more.
Ian

 

[WAsledder]

Just buy a bolt and use the water method...it's 10x easier

 

[Richracer1]

I've not had any issues with my SLP clutch tool.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Any idea what brand of puller it was? If it was some off-brand, made in China puller, you got ripped off – your sled aught to have a restraining order on that tool. I've got the same type of puller made by EPI Performance, and it's pulled my clutch several times plus the clutch from another sled without any issues. So you might want to look into a different brand (SLP would be another good one). Another option, depending on how the DIY version works, is to cut the end off the junk puller and use the water method.

I'd also ask the dealer if they're using similarly bent pullers on customers' sleds. If their answer is yes, then avoid them as much as possible; if it's no, then ask them what puller they're using and how they could sell you the one you've got in good conscience. Either way, even junk from Harbor Freight has a 90-day warranty, so the dealer should at least give you a replacement. Whether you'd use it is another question. If they're really trying to tell you it's all good, then at least remind the dealer that they're inviting all the bad press you can generate by 1) Selling a garbage tool 2) Trying to give you the worst excuse in the book instead of at least giving you another one.

 

[TRS]

The best puller on the market is from Dalton Industries. I have used them all.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Take the bent tip one, cut a few inches off it and now just use it for the water trick. Works awesome for me every time and gets off even the WORST stuck clutches. And your not actually pushing n the tool so they dont break then.

 

[joshkoltes]

Years ago I had the same problem when I bought a cheepo puller, I replaced it with SLP and never bent it yet

 

[Boreal]

What is the water trick? Can someone explain how to do this.

 

[off trail mike]

X10 on water trick.

Pullers are passe. The water trick can be done slowly with relatively low pressures. If you have a good seal (lots of tape) you can really finesse off clutches that have been on forever. Even seen oil used for jammed/rusted on clutches. Takes more time....that's all

Works on all brands. You may need to find a bolt at Fastenal that matches diameter, thread pitch and length for threads in clutch, but these are normally well known..

The water trick is to apply teflon (plumbers) white tape to the threads of your clutch bolt or a bolt that matches the internal threads inside your clutch that the stock puller uses.

You fill the clutch bolt hole with water, insert bolt and start wrenching. You MUST, MUST, MUST make sure you have a few threads engaged to ensure no damage, but this is normally what happens as the water compresses.

Basically the water method turns your clutch and clutch bolt into a hydraulic ram which pushes the clutch off engine.

Here is one video Louis Skebo (PowerModz) put together showing the method. THere are many.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cc0wAMjNgow


Cheers

OTM

 

[GoBigParts]

Most of my pullers have bent but never enough to damage the threads on crank or puller. So if the clutch has been on a while, most of the year. I always use the grease trick. Typically will pop right off. No over torque your engine mounts and all that.

 

[TRS]

X10 on water trick.

Pullers are passe. The water trick can be done slowly with relatively low pressures. If you have a good seal (lots of tape) you can really finesse off clutches that have been on forever. Even seen oil used for jammed/rusted on clutches. Takes more time....that's all

Works on all brands. You may need to find a bolt at Fastenal that matches diameter, thread pitch and length for threads in clutch, but these are normally well known..

The water trick is to apply teflon (plumbers) white tape to the threads of your clutch bolt or a bolt that matches the internal threads inside your clutch that the stock puller uses.

You fill the clutch bolt hole with water, insert bolt and start wrenching. You MUST, MUST, MUST make sure you have a few threads engaged to ensure no damage, but this is normally what happens as the water compresses.

Basically the water method turns your clutch and clutch bolt into a hydraulic ram which pushes the clutch off engine.

Here is one video Louis Skebo (PowerModz) put together showing the method. THere are many.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cc0wAMjNgow


Cheers

OTM

I have been using rubbing alcohol lately instead of water. Saves on rust and clean up. Evaporates quickly. Eliminates belt slippage if your headed back on the snow in short order.

 

[1Mike900]

Video says to be used on Ski-Doo only? Is the tape to be at front of bolt as he showed or further up? If at front, is it not compressing in the crank tapered threaded snout only? Otherwise what is grabbing on the clutch threads and pushing against the crank to extract? Or is there a different set-up used for the Polaris/Cat? Thanks

 

[1Mike900]

Sorry, re-read the post above and it is using the threads in the clutch only, makes perfect sense now!

 

[greatone]

Bent puller

Yep its bent ,pissed me off

 

[mtncat1]

i use the epi pullers and have never bent one the water trick works fine just stand back

 

[SRXSRULE]

The best puller on the market is from Dalton Industries. I have used them all.

THIS!

 

[cortez]

Thanks for the responses guys, I will check the brand of the tool they sold me and post here soon, I need to get home and dig it out of the toolbox to confirm.

I did look into the water method but given that the sled only had 700km on it i figured how tight could it be.. As it turns out, pretty tight..

As for the dealer selling junk pullers, they told me that they continue using their bent tool(s) on customers sleds, in fact they also told me that they just tighten them up and then hit the end HARD with a 5lb sledge. When I questioned them on the technique and the effect on the crank bearings they started to back track quite quickly although they had already lost my confidence for any future servicing.. what a joke, these guys are experts??

I also agree that there should be some guarantee on a tool that bends and doesn't even get the job done, even the cheapest tool stores will provide you with this. Oh well!

 

[Indy_500]

Ive always used EPI pullers and NEVER bent one. And would NEVER touch the end of the crank with a hammer...