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Found a hole in crankcase, now what?

kiliki

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Dec 27, 2008
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Its a wet sump system. You ever run it upside down with the pump out of the oil and wonder how it primes again?
Put 2 oz of oil into each cylinder before you start it and the pump will prime
 
Last edited:
D
May 24, 2012
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If you go away from OEM, go to MCB. You will be able to choose between piston types that made to their own specification.

Remarkable story with the hole into the crank chambers. I once rode an 800HO with a caped pulse fitting that broke. It gave it a big problem with hanging idle, but otherwise it worked fine.
 

kiliki

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forged are denser in the 4 corners (just on each side of the wrist pin) and when not warmed up with the whole motor tend to grow faster then the jug. this gives you what is called a cold seize. sand cast are less dense and don't swell as fast giving the jug time to expand with it. this is why you always warm up you sled to operating temp before hammering on it.
 

Dynamo^Joe

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www.iBackshift.com
THAT IS THE MOST MINTY PICTURE...im sorry for the loss of it though. I might get it welded or some kind of super dooper epoxy to put on it.
The reason it did not burn down is because the engine did not go lean.
There is no fuel traveling from the reeds to the opening of the transfer ports when the piston is at BDC. There is only induction air. If anything, the AFR at TDC is more rich, because of a charge air loss pisn out that hole. So instead of say 12.6 to 1, with that hole it might be 11.6 to 1, less air with 1 part fuel then BANG...fire.

Years ago when i was testing the 872 with dobeck fuel controller, I asked at the Race Dept why my AFR Gage shows 16 to 18 at part throttle speed compared to a Cat or Poo or Carbureted Doo.
I was told, with direct injection, fuel spray on top of the piston in the minimum cavity area, little to no fuel goes into the squish band although there is oxygen in the squish band. Piston goes down and exhaust goes into pipe and also that portion of oxygen that was in the squish band so then at part throttle the AFR will show more oxygen in the pipe and its because it came into the pipe from the squish band.
If I wanted to make my AFR go down at part throtte, then i would have to turn on my piggy back injectors and add in fuel at part throttle settings. I could add fuel with 1000 rpm increments and it worked. i could make the AFR reading go rich so now fuel is being introduced into the reeds and and into the transfer ports like a carbureted engine, but this made the response sluggish. I adjusted the controller to just piss the rite amount of fuel that made it have a nice punch throttle feel.
To prove it, can shut the controller off and the engine still ran.

No fuel is going through the intake charge air tract from reeds to piston ring, so it can't run lean. if anything, it'll run slight rich now because some of the charge air flowed out the "new port".
 
I
Dec 21, 2016
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If in doubt if you have a good prime job just mix a little oil in your first tank of gas while the system is purging itself. 50 to 1 ratio is safe enough. Then look after the first ride to see if you can find any air pockets left.

Doesn’t work like that on an eTec.
 
W
Sep 8, 2015
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looking at the hole I would have JP Weld it... and ran it...

i can explain why this is just plan a bad idea.

1. there is a lot of pressure being pushed out that hole when sled is running, almost hard to keep your thumb over it, who knows how long that would hold.
2. I did not know this right away, but that hole looks much worse on the inside of the case that it does on the outside, which means there are chunks in the case just floating around waiting to do damage
3. would if the chucks in the case do more damage, like cause a crank bearing failure, now I am looking at more $$
4. I am in the midwest, which means I drive too damn for to get to the mountains, if I am driving that far the sled needs to be reliable for me.
5. would if i sell it, would you be ok buying a sled a sled with JB weld on the motor?
 
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