Force turbo on ptek

Nov 2, 2008
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I came across a complete Force kit for a good price. It will be going on my 2010 XRS extended to 146”/2.25” track.

Bryce at Force has been giving me some tips along the way and he indicated the entire kit is intact yet. Sent him a couple pics for review. It’s awesome he’s still willing to back his old products!

I am at about 1200’—flat lander mostly. Talking to the guy selling the kit, he indicated a 3 psi boost spring to run pump gas. I can get race gas is needed but would rather not. Does that sound about right? The guy I am getting it from went up to 12psi and race gas. I won’t be doing that, at least for now.

Bryce indicated I should replace all the fuel, coolant, and boost reference hoses. I’m not entirely sure as to why. Maybe just preventative measures?

The kit comes with the turbo reeds but stock rave valves. Again, Bryce mentioned to get a rave valve fix it kit. I am not sure what that is or where to get one. I’m probably just not searching google quite right. How about jetting? Starting point would be great.

I believe I have the skills to get the turbo on the sled, but am worried about the little details. I’ve read like 100 pages on turbos on this site.

This is my first adventure into turbo sleds. I fix Outboard’s and rebuilt a bunch along the way, and done my Ptek twice now. First repair was due to the pto bearing giving out. Second repair was caused by a lower rod bearing failure and the rod actually spilt the entire case in half.

I am waiting for an install guide from Bryce so I’ll have something to go off of.

I would appreciate any guidance and help along the way for this Northern Wisconsin rider. I know this is an old sled but it seems like fun, so why not? I’m usually about a decade or more behind in technology!
Dman
 
Nov 2, 2008
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Also looking for a set of install instructions.

Bryce looked for them but couldn’t come up with them, although he was confident the turbo will work out well.

Would like to do 3-4 psi boost but I can’t find a 3psi wastegate actuator. Lowest is 4 as a complete, sealed unit. Maybe I’ll have to just get a unit that is adjustable by changing springs.

I’ve conquered nearly every Ptek Carbed turbos and learned a lot.
 
Oct 1, 2020
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On the older ptek’s and etec’s, the valves didn’t like boost so that’s why he’s recommending to change them. Should be able to find some on boyseen or buy another stock set and stack them. For the boost hoses. They do crack over time and not deal correctly as with anything plastic or rubber related. If the kit has been sitting for awhile it could have some small cracks that can leave to boost loss which can make an already difficult system to tune even greater. As for the installation I’m sure if you post pictures of it I or someone might be able to help.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nov 2, 2008
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Thanks for the heads up and replying to get this thread moving. I do have a set of turbo reeds that are doubled up. Came with the turbo. As for Rave Valves, maybe I’ll try them in a ways. Pinned wide open, stock, and try without the
solenoid controller. Doesn’t seem there is a consensus on what it best.

What about flat lander jetting? Stock main is 480, and I think the pilot is 17.5. Or is the extra fueling coming from the power jets only?

Are the boost reference lines made of anything special? Figure I’ll replace everything now as it’ll be a pain once it gets installed.

I’m going to try and read through all the threads again and pull out what is the most important nuggets of info.
 
Oct 1, 2020
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Thanks for the heads up and replying to get this thread moving. I do have a set of turbo reeds that are doubled up. Came with the turbo. As for Rave Valves, maybe I’ll try them in a ways. Pinned wide open, stock, and try without the
solenoid controller. Doesn’t seem there is a consensus on what it best.

What about flat lander jetting? Stock main is 480, and I think the pilot is 17.5. Or is the extra fueling coming from the power jets only?

Are the boost reference lines made of anything special? Figure I’ll replace everything now as it’ll be a pain once it gets installed.

I’m going to try and read through all the threads again and pull out what is the most important nuggets of info.

Tbh I’m not familiar with jetting for a boosted 800 or about the rav valve. The valve should be very similar to the xm in a sense and don’t see why you’d have to touch it. Unless you get some weird surging But I’d try without anything. I can’t remember the name of the thread but one guy completely went through how he built his. You should be able to use any low psi line for the waste gate or bov. I’ve used 50psi 1/4” or 3/8” line depending on the fittings. I’d probably change your weights while you’re at it. Depending if you’re in Canada I’d talk to ibackshift. The extra fueling will be coming from the power jets but you will have to rejet your mains but like I said I have no clue what would be best
 
Nov 2, 2008
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I can also say the secondary helix and spring are an iBackshift kit. Want to say the helix is a D2.
Gearing is like a 20/51 I think. Around 21g weights.....again I think.
 
Oct 1, 2020
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I can also say the secondary helix and spring are an iBackshift kit. Want to say the helix is a D2.
Gearing is like a 20/51 I think. Around 21g weights.....again I think.

Might want to do a few runs and see what your rpms are like. If my memory serves me correct it should be 8100. Depending on what you want/need you might want to regear it
 
Nov 2, 2008
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I realize there are going to be adjustments and modifications that will creep up in the first ride or

2. I’ll keep an eye on the rpms with my current clutch setup. The sled was extended last year so at a bare minimum, I know it works fine, but I’m not terribly picky on the setups.

As for jetting, I looked up the 2010 Summits,
et al., are running the same jetting as mine. 480/17.5. I assume the parts diagram uses flat lander jetting? Thought they may have put in jetting for a higher elevation .
 
Nov 2, 2008
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Another question, not about the turbo however. I extended the SC5 skid to 146” with extensions. Skid has the big KYB Adjustable shocks, that comes with the XRS. It just seems to have very little weight transfer and not very playful if you will. Perhaps that is the nature of extending the rails or could there be something I’m missing. I’ve tried a lot of the rear scissors Blocks, spring settings, etc.

I do have in my stable 2 144” M10 skids. One is very basic and the other is a full Airwave setup. Problem with that is having to take out the brackets in the tunnel that give the boards extra strength. Maybe someone has done that on here? I do know however, M10s keep the front end down really well.
 
Nov 2, 2008
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Been doing a ton of reading as there are many old threads about this very install. Appears that people running about 5 psi and lower, are pump gas safe. I’ll be starting at 3-4 with some higher octane for starters and move from there.

I was able to find a single post about jetting. Bryce indicates the jets can stay the same and adjust with the power jets. I think it was on a Rev turbo that he replied .

There are many threads about blown bellows. After reading dozens, I am in search of a 5 psi pressure relief valve. No clue where to find. Someone said an Airlogic something something with a part number but that doesn’t come up with anything since it’s so old. Or what is the solution? Some talk of drilling out the exhaust valve hole, the tiny one and making it bigger. Lots of talk about the exhaust solenoids too. Doesn’t seem to be a silver bullet solution. I’ll have to go back and read.

Air/Fuel ratio should be about 12-12.5 at wide open throttle it seems. Correct me if I’m wrong.
 
Nov 2, 2008
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After many attempts in the garage, the kit is ready to rock. Built my own smoke machine to test for boost leaks. Got a light spring in the BOV. Using 50% 100LL and 50% 91 Gas for 5 psi boost to start to be on the safe side at low elevation. We are supposed to get a reasonable amount of snow today and tomorrow. At least I’ll be able to test on the lake a bit for tuning purposes.
 
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