Few questions about ny new 2016 m6

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I dug into it this afternoon and know jackdoodly about them so...where the jackshaft goes through from drivers to passengers side (?) Theres a tube that in my life looks like a breather or a vacume line but is it an oil line for the jack shaft housing? See attached photo .There was no line attached or found. Iam installing a kill switch tether and noticed this little gizmo on the drivers side top panel (?) What is it? See attached photo. Also I was wondering if there is a air filter enclosed in the hood ? And if so (should be right!) Does it get serviced? I have a ton of questions but I'll just ask one more. Can a dealer service fuel injectors like a car shop does and at 1400 miles should a guy do it. Never really messed with a two stroke. Just car engines. The openings of throttle bodies are dirty in my experience. Just a thorough run through before I venture out. Oh and there is some light surface rust on and around the weights on the primary clutch? Iam not used to these parts but wonder if they should come apart and be cleaned.oh and should a guy replace the exhaust doughnuts while hes in there? And why is there fluid in the bottom of my muffler ? Didnt smell it so dont know what it is lol.Thanks sorry for all the new guy questions . 20210112_162643.jpg 20210112_162702.jpg
 
Breather tube for chain case normal no line. And I believe that's the beeper for reverse. No air filter but make sure your frogskinz on the intake up by gauge are intact on top and look closely underneath I had to reglue a little on the lower screens.
 
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So many opinions on maintenance! I'll just ask the loaded question....what should be done around 1400 miles? I've researched now and know a bit more how this engine works lol. What I've done- new plugs, change chain case oil, checked gygax, aligned and tensioner track, aligned skiis. The steering is sloppy but I'll do that next summer. Should I check Reed's? Clean exhaust valves? I noticed to that iam low on coolant. Should I drain it and start over or just top it off. Seems silly to be this deep in it and not do the other stuff but I dont want to for fun inky if you guys experience says you should. Sorry for dumb newb questions. I've ordered a service manual so I can finger out how to without asking.thanks
 

boondocker97

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I only change the exhaust doughnuts when they are worn down to where the steel fibers are showing on the mating surfaces. Otherwise they can be re-used with a thin coat of high temp silicone until they bed in to their new resting place after being re-installed. The fluid in the exhaust is probably just oil. If the engine has been idling or just started and ridden a short distance and shut off it won't get hot enough to burn off all of the 2 stroke oil.

What you've done so far is a good start. Check the upper a-arm bushings for play where they attach to the bulkhead (frame). Check that the bolts are tight where the frame spars all attach and the bolts in the rear suspension. Just top off the coolant. Reeds should be fine at that mileage. You can pull an exhaust valve quick and check it if it gives you piece of mind. Blow the clutches off with compressed air. Make sure to get in the rollers and weight pin area. Check that the rollers in the primary clutch on the motor are free spinning. Then remove the belt and clean the sheave faces with a scotchbrite pad followed by a quick wipe with a rag sprayed with brake cleaner. I don't spray it directly on the clutch because I don't want to take the chance of it damaging any of the bushings. I wouldn't worry about surface rust on the weights.
 

bgraff1

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1st picture is the chaincase vent, second is your backup beeper. clutch can show some rust on the weights as they are steel, not aluminum. throttle bodies will look dirty, thats how the slobbering zuke engine is lol. just top up the coolant and carry on with life. no air filter in the hood, just make sure the intake is sealed up properly. sounds like you already cleaned and inspected the chaincase, i would pull the clutches apart for a good cleaning and inspection. the primary just remove the 6 cover bolts and pull the cover off. this will gain you access to the weights for a good cleaning, just mark the orientation so it goes back together the same. the steering post bushings are garbage on these sleds, canada sled parts makes updated ones you can install.
 
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Just want to send a big F.U to the artic cat engineer who designed the tether switch!!! My god lord jesus, they should have made it where you had to pull the motor lol! Well now I know how to disassemble the thing anyway. Thanks for the advice !
 

bgraff1

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Just want to send a big F.U to the artic cat engineer who designed the tether switch!!! My god lord jesus, they should have made it where you had to pull the motor lol! Well now I know how to disassemble the thing anyway. Thanks for the advice !
assuming you installed the old school button style id take it off and throw it in the garbage. ive had them fail so many times or fall apart. buy the adaptor harness and install the new magnetic tether. 100x better
 
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Other dumb thing I did was loose a exhaust spring into the abyss. What's the secret trick to getting them out? My snowmobile mechanics life jas started poorly lol
 

boondocker97

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Make sure you get that spring out. If it finds it's way into your clutches you'll have a bad time. I can usually go through the side and get anything out from under the engine with the pen magnet. Putting a small dab of dielectric grease on the tether that pops onto the socket on the sled makes it much easier to put on and prolong the life of it. The new tether will probably make it through one season for you if you don't want to mess with it right now. Mine made it several years before I upgraded to the magnetic one.
 
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Awsome tip thanks!! Was harder than expected to work on. Not much room to spare! Fussed over electrical contacts and used dialectic grease then tested it and everything worked. So I taped it up good then tested again lol. Only thing I saw that looked like unusual wear was the secondary sheaves had what looked like chatter Mark's and an obvious pattern of wear? I used to paint cars so I took 2k grit to it but I didnt go all the way through the mark's so hope that's good enough for now? I ordered a puller and will do a service or maybe an overhaul soon. I cleaned it all up anyway lol. Need to organize a lift cause stooping over got a bit painful. Man I hope I find that spring...I saw that it could get in the clutch and I figured that would be my luck as a new rider. Shop wanted an hour and a half for the tether. I would have won on that lol but now iam ready to dig in deeper and iam sure I'll have to. Hate when guys tell ya "it's a cream puff" when they know shi@s broke. Now I know more so I'll move on. Good news is it starts and runs easy so well see. Hopefully no rod soup this year!
 
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Wow that's a great lift! Simple. Are they easy to "lift" with a built machine? That looks like a ground up you got going there! Crazy that's the "chassis " more like a unibody lol. Ism allways torn with projects, when your finished it's all ne ees so why buy in the middle? I allways over buy my "project" then completely re do it! I like your start! Now sandblast it and send it to the powdercoater? Are the skeletons aluminum or steel? Huh. Crazy. How far out are you on it? Always just money huh lol! Very cool I want one!!! Finished this one this summer frame off lol
 

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boondocker97

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Nice truck you got there!

The sled all torn down in my picture above had the front part of the tunnel get bent/cracked at the front skid mount from some rear suspension damage. Insurance paid to replace it and I did the work myself. That was back in the spring of 2017. Long been put back together. Gave it a pretty extensive makeover with a bunch of updates while I was at it. See before and after photos below. It is the same sled I have in the other thread I'm doing the top end on now. My sled lift was out of town at my dad's place so I had to improvise with dirt bike stands for now. Little bit of work to get it up on those by myself!

They are pretty easy to lift up when they are assembled. My stand is an older type that has a framework that slides into the front with a hand crank cable winch that does the lifting. Once the sled is up and pinned in place you take that part off so it's out of the way. Works kind of like this style: https://www.discountramps.com/snowmobile-jack/p/SNO-1508-W/

Most of them that you see now have a crank jack mounted within the frame like this: Amazon.com: Extreme Max 5800.1045 PRO Snowmobile Lift: Automotive

Before (on the right):
M7_2.jpg

After:
138897056_10222605741225955_2849076268103232417_o.jpg
 
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Holly crap that came out good!! Thanks man I'll definitely be getting a lift If i gotta dig in there. Iam all ready planning to lengthen my track (in my hot rod mind) lol. Iam not surprised that guys have to modify stuff alot. They take a beating the way rippers ride them. Kinda cool to have a toy your supposed to give hell instead of baby.
 
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So how hot are these guys supposed to run to avoid damage? Mine will run around 140-150 ? Seems hot as far as the scale on the display? I try to hit deeper snow as I go along the trail but it and I dont do a very good job of cooling it. Is it basically mandatory to use scratchers every time your on a packed trail even if it's a couple of miles? Dont want to mess stuff up getting it hot. Thanks
 
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