FCX Fan Cooled Xtreem CMX

Idcatman3

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The 141 powerclaw is also a good, light track, comes in 2.25" and 2.6" versions. We have one of those, cut down to ~1.75" on one of our 570 fans.

They also have a 141 Cobra 1.6", that comes in at 41 lbs.
 
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The camso extreme is a 141x2.5x15 3" pitch fully clipped and full cupped weighs in at 47 lbs. The conquer 280 os way light.


Pic is of the conquer data sheet but they don't make one in the 140's yet
 
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Bushwacker1

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I am waiting for the newest track technology to make it to the 141 and or the 144 length. A 141 anywhere from 2" to 2.6" paddle around 36 lbs would be an awesome option to upgrade to if the 1.6 does not meet expectations.
 

Merlin

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The O.P. is planning on running the Cobra 141" X 1.6" on his build.....

The 141 powerclaw is also a good, light track, comes in 2.25" and 2.6" versions. We have one of those, cut down to ~1.75" on one of our 570 fans.

They also have a 141 Cobra 1.6", that comes in at 41 lbs.
 

Idcatman3

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The O.P. is planning on running the Cobra 141" X 1.6" on his build.....

Yup, completely missed that when I edited my reply. I was thinking about the powerclaw, then remembered we have one of those Cobras sitting on the shelf waiting for a sled. Didn't go back and re-read the thread.
 
Here is some progress.
1 Made a template that has common locating holes in it from both the right and the left side of the chassis. This allowed me to lay out the shaft placement for both sides on one plate. Transfer punched the holes to the pto side, the belt drive side, and the shaft bearing holder plates that will attach to the sled.
2 Cut out new hole for drive shaft to slide thru when installing track.
3 Drive shaft installed. I could not believe the fixed bearing placement was only .055" from being in the right place. I found some Polaris bottom sprocket chain case shim washers that were the right thickness and shimmed the bearing to prevent side loading it. The drive shaft is from a fusion trail sled but I believe it is also the same as a 08-10 RMK. I was going to use a hex shaft and shorten it but this one is lighter and the only mod will be the shim to move bearing placement. I also have a 13 PRO shaft that I am thinking about using because it is even lighter than the hydro formed one but it will require a custom spacer be made, as it is not as wide.
4 Driven side bearing plate installed. I am also working on some ideas to get grease into this bearing, and make a new pick up for the drive shaft to send a spedo signal to the gage that came with the sled. I think it just needs a single magnet on the shaft and a pick up mounted to count the shaft revolutions.
5 Belt drive side with brake caliper in place. Still have more to do on the belt drive plate. Some of the bolt holes will need to get counter sunk for rotor clearance.
6 Still working on the new plate for the driven clutch side jack shaft bearing.
Is that the stock steering Collum from the 440 I seen in that picture?

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Bushwacker1

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How did it fit up? What did u use for the rest of the steering ?

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The CMX one had the drag link arm on the other side and I don't think it would have cleared the mount plate for the fan engine. Had to put on the crank arm from the fan also. The 550 engines that were installed in this bulkhead also has the link on this side. There is only two bolts that lined up where it hits the bulkhead. I am not sure if the straight shaft will give me problem's with the air box yet. The project has stalled for many months as other things have come up so the final details on the steering are not yet fixed. I also have a 550 sport that may end up donating its engine and steering post to this project as it will not require motor mount modifications that the 440 will to get this thing completed. I hope to get back to this soon.
 

Bushwacker1

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Any luck coming up with a plan for the driveshaft?
Finally had some time to get back to this never ending project. A few more prototypes and some more time drafting and I think I have what will allow the use of several stock drive shafts, allow a standard cable drive spedo to be maintained, and be able to apply grease to the drive shaft bearing.

Pic #1 Decided that egging out this hole and making the tunnel material with a larger hole was not the best idea as it did not give much extra clearance for installing the drive shaft and will reduce the strength in this area in a stock bulkhead that has not been re plated like this one has.

Using the belt drive back plate for a template, it was mounted to the PTO side of the sled with the common rivet holes in the bulkhead (not shown) and used it to transfer the upper and lower flangette holes for the drive shaft and jackshaft.

Pic #2 Mounted the belt drive back plate to the Mag side of the sled. Installed the rear suspension front shaft into the tunnel and tightened it to put the tunnel into its fixed position that it will be in when the rear skid is installed. Did some checking on the back plate with a framing square and found that my back plate was not square to the top of the tunnel. Jack shaft was falling down hill toward the driven clutch bearing flangette mount. With a chain case this was not always a large issue but it could be corrected with chain case shimming to get your jackshaft and drive shaft back in square with the tunnel. As I want my back plate to be fixed to the side of the tunnel to provide more strength I did not want to shim the back plate as a chain case would have been to correct for this type of misalignment. After some persuasion with some wood blocking and a sledge hammer I was able to get the sides of the bulk head square with the top of the tunnel.

Pic #3 Took more material off of the bearing mount so the shaft would clear for install. The plan was to use the two studs to hold it into place while the shaft was installed and then add a spacer shim behind it after the shaft was installed. Final shimming to provide for no bearing side loading would be accomplished with 25 mm shaft shims between bottom pulley side bearing and the drive shaft.

Pic #4 Slide in shim to make up needed space after drive shaft has been installed. What I found at this point was I could install the bearing holder and the shim into the sled just by removing the studs and rocking the bearing holder a few degrees in its flangette. This bearing mount and shim has now become another prototype and I will be making a new one that is thicker so no shim is required. Currently this newest revision will allow the use of several types of stock drive shafts. Aluminum Pro Shaft, Steel hydro formed pro RMK shaft with integral spedo drive inducer, pro steel hydro formed driveshaft with no spedo drive inducer, and a fusion RMK era steel hydro formed drive shaft. A standard steel hex drive shaft could also be shortened to fit this also but would be the heaviest. These will all work without any provision to grease this bearing or to attach a cable driven spedo. The 2 drive shafts with bolt on inducers will require some adapter parts to get a standard cable type spedo drive and a surface for the grease seal to ride on for provision to grease the bearing. The pro steel hydro formed shaft with permanent spedo inducer will require drilling the shaft end to be able to press in the spedo drive insert and a press on sleeve for grease seal surface. The aluminum pro shaft and the pro steel hydro formed shaft with no spedo inducer would require drilling and tapping the end to accept a shaft extension for grease seal and a place to install the spedo drive insert. I have some ideas on all these that would work but have not made any yet.

Pic#5 Attachment bolts and studs on PTO side of the sled. Studs will be used to attach a spedo drive adapter. Note the drive adapter with one ear trimmed off. The drive shaft was lowered as far as possible by rotating the flangettes. The studs are in the original index position so the drive adapter will point the correct direction.

Mounting the complete bearing support on the inside of the tunnel has worked out well to minimize the size of new holes needed into the side of the tunnel. The .250" center hole should be all that is needed for the spedo drive key to get from the shaft to the drive adapter. If this was being installed on a non modified tunnel, a plate will need to be installed on the inside of the tunnel to cover the original drive shaft hole, so future bearing holders will need to be made to accommodate the cover plate.

Pic #6 Spedo drive adapter install mock up.
 

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Bushwacker1

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Well this thing has been gathering dust for a long time now with other things taking up my time. Not certain when or if this will get completed as another project jumped in front of it. I came across a used 2013 800 Pro RMK and have been able to install a custom built single cylinder water cooled engine in it that I was working on for a while now. I stole the 141 skid from this project and installed it into the new build. I was able to get the new build on the snow out west a few weeks ago, but had a few setbacks while tuning it and am currently working on fixing those issues before I can say it has been a success. I will be starting a new build thread to share how a lower Hp Pro RMK 141 can be built for a young rider with an actual finished weight around 370 Lbs without gas but full on oil and water.
 

Reeb

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My latest variation of my 440 fanner came in at 375lbs. I'm gathering parts to put a 570 in her.....the 440 spins the 141x2.25 track really well however he extra HP will be ideal I believe. Need to wait on Aaen for another round of pipes....I missed out on this years batch he made for a bunch of guys racing. Maybe next winter the 570 will finally be in its new home.

As is tho, it's an amazing machine. It's always WFO and not one person that rides it comes off it with less than a huge grin.

Can't wait to see what you did for the single cylinder Pro!
 

WyoUltra

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My latest variation of my 440 fanner came in at 375lbs. I'm gathering parts to put a 570 in her.....the 440 spins the 141x2.25 track really well however he extra HP will be ideal I believe. Need to wait on Aaen for another round of pipes....I missed out on this years batch he made for a bunch of guys racing. Maybe next winter the 570 will finally be in its new home.

As is tho, it's an amazing machine. It's always WFO and not one person that rides it comes off it with less than a huge grin.

Can't wait to see what you did for the single cylinder Pro!
If you can find one, the pro x 440's were rated pretty high as far as fan HP goes. From what I've read the engines in the 02s and 03s were a bit hard to get running right, arguably not very reliable, but i've seen numbers online stating they could put out upwards of 75hp on them.
 

Reeb

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If you can find one, the pro x 440's were rated pretty high as far as fan HP goes. From what I've read the engines in the 02s and 03s were a bit hard to get running right, arguably not very reliable, but i've seen numbers online stating they could put out upwards of 75hp on them.
I have one of those, however the pistons are no longer available. Hence the 570 thinking....Aaen said 90hp out of a 570 is reliable at elevation and not hard to do, carbs, porting, head work, pipe. Just time and money. I was thinking a single cylinder liquid cooled engine like Fastrax has done, but adding liquid cooling etc and I think the fan is still the way to go for mtn riding.
 
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