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Excessive distance between kit and frame 2019 ARO

N
Mar 21, 2016
599
213
43
NW oregon
Has anyone tried to iron out the large gap between kit and track on a TS? I’ve got like 4” air on mine and I think it could improve handling to bring that forward. Looks like re drilling the long thru bolt holes would do it, but I’m nervous that I might regret for some reason.
 
C
Apr 22, 2019
191
135
43
I was wondering this as well. It looks like if I drill (relocate) the three large bolts per side (rearward) on the aluminum side panels...that I could move my whole ARO 3 kit easily forward a couple of inches and still have an inch between the tips of my paddles and the rear of my motorcycle frame. I have been curious as to what this would do for handling. The only thing I don't like about my whole bike setup (and yes I am very aware of the multiple adjustments) is that is just has too much ski pressure in my opinion. I am anxious to try one of the new RIOT 3 kits.

Just my thoughts,

Chris
 
E
Dec 19, 2007
1,039
657
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I've already done it but it's more than just drilling 3 holes farther back on the side panels. The whole jack shaft bearing flange needs to move back with the bolts hence I had to make new side panels. See the panthera build. I think that one was 4 inches but couldn't go as far forward because of the 3"paddle. I also did my own on a riot that was 5 inches forward and yes it works great. The factory should build them this way. Keep in mind every bit helps so if you have to buy 4 different sprockets to get your chain adjuster as short as possible it's probably worth it. You might have enough real estate on the side panels to go an inch back on the 3 bolts and then build a backing plate to hold the bearing flange and juggle/cut some jack shaft spacers to move the bearing inward a bit. Keep in mind as soon as you move the bearing flange back the chain cover won't fit and you need a longer chain.
 
N
Mar 21, 2016
599
213
43
NW oregon
Well I decided to creep up on it with minimal intrusion and did get one link out which is nice. I cut the bumps off the inner slider mount to get a little more clearance but the third bolt was not messed with. So only drilled first two bolts. Hopefully a new chain will set up even tighter and I won’t have to move it back more. I don’t think I want to make side plates for this one. It already runs sweet.

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Zad

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jan 8, 2017
143
98
28
This is one of the advantages of the CMX kit which is designed to sit as close as possible to the frame and why the CMX seems to have light ski pressure and playful easy turning. I’ve got the Selkirk armour system on my husky and there is less than 1/8” gap between the paddles and the back of the Selkirk armour which wraps tight to the bike frame. Good on you guys for taking this on, quite a project. I also don’t understand why Timbersled doesn’t design their kit to sit further forward...maybe there is a good reason but I don’t see it.
 

CATSLEDMAN1

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 27, 2007
2,630
1,207
113
75
Missoula, Montana
Hard to search this forum, but pictures posted and process when moving an ARO or RioT tight up against the KTM. The process on the ARO and 'RIOT was to:
get the track system more up under the bike
have a normal chain from bike to kit without the plastic rub blocks rubegoldberg TS design nite mare.
done 3 ARO and 2 RIOTS
regear and have a working kit

After 2 years of riding the snugged up kits, I don't recall how they rode stock, got used to my RIOT this way, ok never rode it stock. NOT a huge game changer if you ride a 120, seemed to make a bigger difference on the older kits with long tracks. Done them tooo.
 
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