• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Engine-Tech 900 BIG BORE (polaris edge)

BILTIT

Well-known member
Premium Member
Apr 9, 2011
1,654
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Lloydminster, SK
Here is my clutching but with a team tied so the helix is very different. I run 490 jets at 2100ft with twins and atacc so mine is different again. 30%avgas/premium.


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2XM3

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Premium Member
Oct 6, 2008
3,261
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Bitteroot valley,MT
i've ran slp 903's back to back with race twins vs there single, the single killed it for sure, may not be your issue but FYI
 

lyspera

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Jan 12, 2016
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Took the 900 engine out and installed the oem 800 engine, still have this problem. Wide open pulls up a hill then suddenly it drops from 8200 down to 7200-7500, but when i pump the throttle it will run strong again.

plugs look fine
fuel filter is changed
The cases is ported
clutches is fine
new belt
tried another temp sensor (no change)
tps is adjusted to 4 volts
case vaccume line is properly seated

maybe the fuel pump?
 

lyspera

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Jan 12, 2016
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Remove case vacuum line and look for kink. Fuel pump next.

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Checked the vacuum line, no kinks in line just a little curve to it. yes i will replace the fuel pump next!
 

lyspera

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Jan 12, 2016
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fuel pump and fuel filter changed still drop in rpm. seems like it happens when the engine is hot, when i let the sled cool for a couple of minutes and then ride it again it works good for a few minutes then it drops in rpm again
 

whoisthatguy

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Dec 27, 2007
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There are two nickel size clear plastic diaphragms in the fuel pump, that act as 1 way valves. They get rough on the side where they contact the aluminum, in a circular pattern around the outside edge of the diaphragm. After perhaps 2500 miles, they need to be flipped over so that the top smooth side is now in contact with the aluminum and makes a tight seal. Or you can buy a complete rebuilding kit on Ebay, which contains all of the other gaskets and diaphragms as well. The engine will run a lot smoother with this rebuild. Replacing one non-rebuilt 2500+ mile fuel pump with another non-rebuilt 2500+ mile fuel pump, will not help things.
 
Last edited:

whoisthatguy

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Lifetime Membership
Dec 27, 2007
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Also, a defective hi-low beam switch can mess with the stator voltage, which will then mess with the engine voltage. You can unplug the hi-low beam switch, to take it out of the system, just to see whether that helps. Other items to substitute with the same electrical item from another working sled, include the CDI box and the coil. Also, at the coil leads to the spark plugs, you can remove the spark plug connectors and clip off about 1/2" of the wire, and then hand screw the connector back on. The copper wires inside the connector, get brittle and lose their conductivity.
 

lyspera

New member
Premium Member
Jan 12, 2016
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Also, a defective hi-low beam switch can mess with the stator voltage, which will then mess with the engine voltage. You can unplug the hi-low beam switch, to take it out of the system, just to see whether that helps. Other items to substitute with the same electrical item from another working sled, include the CDI box and the coil. Also, at the coil leads to the spark plugs, you can remove the spark plug connectors and clip off about 1/2" of the wire, and then hand screw the connector back on. The copper wires inside the connector, get brittle and lose their conductivity.
Will try the hi-low beam switch. thanks!
 

lyspera

New member
Premium Member
Jan 12, 2016
18
0
1
There are two nickel size clear plastic diaphragms in the fuel pump, that act as 1 way valves. They get rough on the side where they contact the aluminum, in a circular pattern around the outside edge of the diaphragm. After perhaps 2500 miles, they need to be flipped over so that the top smooth side is now in contact with the aluminum and makes a tight seal. Or you can buy a complete rebuilding kit on Ebay, which contains all of the other gaskets and diaphragms as well. The engine will run a lot smoother with this rebuild. Replacing one non-rebuilt 2500+ mile fuel pump with another non-rebuilt 2500+ mile fuel pump, will not help things.
Brand new fuel pump installed, as mentioned no change!
 

whoisthatguy

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Dec 27, 2007
624
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Maybe the rear idler wheel bearings are toast and on long pulls, they really heat up and start to disintegrate, causing a horsepower demand. Same thing with the drive axle bearing on the front left side.
 
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