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No it was meant for the carbon fiber looking one. I guess you get what you pay for.
Engine Jacket / Engine Wrap
- Thread starter kinneyt
- Start date
Selkirk is $675 so cheaper if the Profound will be $700 - $800. Plus selkirk has a heat exchanger. The profound looks absolutely amazing, though.
[Edit: looked at their website and they noted $875 canadian. So about $669 U.S. which is almost the same as the selkirk. I bought my Selkirk when they were $660. Doubt they will ship for free like the selkirk, but maybe. Or maybe within canada but not to U.S.] Great to see more options regardless.
I had a carbon fiber skidplate on my last sled and while pricey, was a work of art and bombproof.
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but do you think if there was a $1000 bet on the line that you could set it up on a driveway, or a perfect jig to hold it at the perfect height nice and solid, you could smash it with a framing hammer as hard as you possibly could and put a hole through it?
After playing with engine covers the last 6 or 7 years, I made the biggest heat improvement by totally enclosing my right hand radiator . Any time I cut a nice flowing right side sidehill my temp would plummet as snow flowed up over my right leg /. over the tank. Snow going down inside my covers and covering the radiator/thermostat/ hoses. Covered that, huge help.
Also totally covered the bottom of my engine / up under my plastic skid pan.
I run heat exchanger so radiator is just a fill convenience . this early season cold fine grained powder is tough to combat.
Also totally covered the bottom of my engine / up under my plastic skid pan.
I run heat exchanger so radiator is just a fill convenience . this early season cold fine grained powder is tough to combat.
Testing my reflective aluminium bubble wrapped engine today, my bike stayed at 184 degrees in 16" of new fluff, even cutting long downhill side hills. At one point my riding partner and I stopped after a long downhill through powder coming up in our faces the whole way, my KTM500 was 184, his KTM 520 big bore was 94 degrees, same plastic side covers/Acerbis plastic skid pans, foam on the back of our motors. Dan is home wrapping the critical areas as we speak and tomorrow morning in fresh powder we will re test this improvement. I could ride directly in the blizzrd coming off his track, no change in engine temps.
Recommended for radiator bikes ? well maybe not everyday, but with heat exchanger wow. My ktm 500 will pull often times another gear when its running around 190 degrees.
Recommended for radiator bikes ? well maybe not everyday, but with heat exchanger wow. My ktm 500 will pull often times another gear when its running around 190 degrees.
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I just deleted my left radiator. It improved the temps, they are still low. Which heat exchanger are you running? Custom or off a sled? What size is it?
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Nevermind, CatSled, I just saw your post about building your heat exchanger. I ordered the materials and will build one too.
another day of testing my foil wrap job and my riding partners freshly foil wrapped KTM450.
Embarrassing to say but we never realized the last 7 years how much power we were losing on the last four bikes we've used as snow bikes when running in the powder at 150 degrees or less. This morning we were both shocked at the power of dans big bore running 190 degrees in knee deep powder..........very humbling, I didn't expect that when we dreamed up this mod.
The material we used from LOWES is REFLECTIX 16" BY 25' $16,25 and a roll of sticky back aluminum tape the HYVAC guys use.
Couple of pictures. We didn't stick the stuff to the engine, we just layed sheets up under the tank and tucked it in the skid pan and then put our plastic race car plastic side panels on. We wrapped our right side radiators like a x mas present and wrapped our thermostats. Again, shocked at the engine performance in deep snow, downhill new powder coming 1/2 way up the forks, a mile of that at bottom of hill still 182 degrees.
The idea is that snow sifting in around any open joints can't fall on any motor aluminum, ditto for the front of the motor etc.
Pictures with the wrap painted black is Dan's SX450/520 big bore.
Had to throw in a picture from this morning, new dense powder 30 degrees and SUNNY......what a life.
Embarrassing to say but we never realized the last 7 years how much power we were losing on the last four bikes we've used as snow bikes when running in the powder at 150 degrees or less. This morning we were both shocked at the power of dans big bore running 190 degrees in knee deep powder..........very humbling, I didn't expect that when we dreamed up this mod.
The material we used from LOWES is REFLECTIX 16" BY 25' $16,25 and a roll of sticky back aluminum tape the HYVAC guys use.
Couple of pictures. We didn't stick the stuff to the engine, we just layed sheets up under the tank and tucked it in the skid pan and then put our plastic race car plastic side panels on. We wrapped our right side radiators like a x mas present and wrapped our thermostats. Again, shocked at the engine performance in deep snow, downhill new powder coming 1/2 way up the forks, a mile of that at bottom of hill still 182 degrees.
The idea is that snow sifting in around any open joints can't fall on any motor aluminum, ditto for the front of the motor etc.
Pictures with the wrap painted black is Dan's SX450/520 big bore.
Had to throw in a picture from this morning, new dense powder 30 degrees and SUNNY......what a life.
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I am new to snow biking and as far as sealing the engine i have the pst blanket and that's it. I haven't had time to try my bike yet to see where temps will be. I am curious about your race car plastic side panels. A guy from my area makes engine wraps out of logging skidder tube and has a grommet press for making brass rings to run zip ties through. Apparently it works quite well and cheap. Just another way to do it.
Keep in mind, sometimes you need to take your engine jackets off if you were running extended trails to your riding area. Hard to store hard plastic.No problem if you are running a tunnel cooler with ice scratchers.
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Good point
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The skidder tube idea sounds interesting lots of that around here
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Yes tough as nails and water proof. Guy could get away with just zip ties and holes poked through the rubber if no grommet press. Was just thinking it would be easy to make rad blockers out of it too. Another thing is it rolls up nicely.
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Well I'm going to talk to some friends and aquire myself a skidder tube and play around with it.
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Skidder is a big machine with tires that drags or "skids" logs. We are just talking about the large heavy duty tubes for the tires. Would be similar in size to a large front end loader.
Familiar with a log skidder. didn't realize it was a tire tube being discussed
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go to any fountain tire or auto tire shop. theyll give you popped inner tubes for free. I used to do it all the time back when I was on studded rubber on the dirtbikes and wed cut those tractor tubes into 4" wide by 24" long strips and line the inside of the tires with them. they let me take a dozen popped tubes from their bin in the back no problems. one mans trash is another mans treasure.
Made my own from a seat cover, zip ties for now. Bungees later.
Seems to work fine so far. No melting issues.
Seems to work fine so far. No melting issues.
Avoid the bungees with the ball on the end. They are ice and snow collectors. Here are some better alternatives for homemade or for replacing the bungees on the retail engine covers.
These are rubber ties. I used these on my last snowbike on a PST engine blanket. Got rid of the bungees because they were always collecting snow. I trimmed them to length. Never had one break when I was removing them for oil changes/maintenance. Lost one every now and then out in the field, but they are cheap (I bought the 25 pack of 8") and handy to carry a few extra with in the toolkit anyway as they have many uses.
https://www.ericksonmfg.com/product/tie-it-bundling-ties-®/
I thought about releasable zip ties (rubber lined) like these, but ended up using the rubber ties. But these might make a clean install as well.
https://www.griplockties.com/
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