RM Stator will fix your stator and warranty it for a year I believe.
electrical gremlin
- Thread starter kidwoo
- Start date
Stab in the dark....
Something to check, I had a 2001 zrt 800 that had intermittent starting issues. Had a friend who wrenched on the side look into it and he was stumped for 2 days. Ended up being the washers on top and bottom of the throttle flipper. They are plastic and were worn out causing the plunger to be misaligned on the throttle safety switch. I know it's a whole different animal, but it's something worth looking into. Anxiously awaiting the remedy for your sled and hope you get it figured out soon.
Something to check, I had a 2001 zrt 800 that had intermittent starting issues. Had a friend who wrenched on the side look into it and he was stumped for 2 days. Ended up being the washers on top and bottom of the throttle flipper. They are plastic and were worn out causing the plunger to be misaligned on the throttle safety switch. I know it's a whole different animal, but it's something worth looking into. Anxiously awaiting the remedy for your sled and hope you get it figured out soon.
Pull the crank bolt and the washer the three bolts for the puller only turn in 5 full turns hand leave a quarter turn away from the main bolt before you hit it with the air gun
You can draw the polar super tight and add just a little bit of heat right around the end of the crank and nothing more than about a hundred degrees worth. As this is operating temps for the motor
Speaking of which: What's the red almost epoxy looking stuff bonding the crank to the flywheel? Is that just red loctite?
Got the new stator in. The fuel pump circuit on the old one tests 1.50 ohms. Spec is 1.52-2.28 ohms
Everything else is in spec.
I think I might have been over cooking or overworking the fuel pump. Thoughts?
Got the new stator in. The fuel pump circuit on the old one tests 1.50 ohms. Spec is 1.52-2.28 ohms
Everything else is in spec.
I think I might have been over cooking or overworking the fuel pump. Thoughts?
probably just red lock tite from the center bolt. the ohm reading on the coils will change due to temp. you will know your first ride out if its it.
Not sure I will. That's been the joy of this issue, it only crops up after riding for a few hours. Sometimes not at all.
That was a lot of loctite for the outside of the crank.
I'm gonna take some readings after putting the coils in the toaster* for a while.
*sitting in front of a space heater
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riding it again?
saw this, thought maybe could apply to proclimbs...https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=446439
saw this, thought maybe could apply to proclimbs...https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=446439
B
Something to keep in mind as well. A common issue on these sleds is the engine gets flooded after sitting cold overnight or at least for a couple hours. If on the 3rd or 4th pull it starts then immediately dies and wont fire again you need to do the following
Remove the hood. Unplug the fuel line from the top of the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump plug. Start the sled and let it run till it dies, around 5-7 seconds. Plug everything back in and fire it up first pull. Havent figured out why this happens but it does to both my 16 and my buddies 16.
Remove the hood. Unplug the fuel line from the top of the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel pump plug. Start the sled and let it run till it dies, around 5-7 seconds. Plug everything back in and fire it up first pull. Havent figured out why this happens but it does to both my 16 and my buddies 16.
Definitely not a frozen kill switch. The ones on the alpha are different. I could see that one having an issue.
As far as being flooded, yes I've done exactly that when flooded. This isn't from being flooded though.
I replaced the fuel pump and the stator and am taking it out later today. Hopefully that's it.
As far as being flooded, yes I've done exactly that when flooded. This isn't from being flooded though.
I replaced the fuel pump and the stator and am taking it out later today. Hopefully that's it.
It definitely starts easier and even seems to run a little harder now.
I got my gauge reflashed so I can watch the running voltage. Was pretty consistently at 13 before. Now fairly consistently in the 14-14.5 rage when running. I'm going with stator.
I got my gauge reflashed so I can watch the running voltage. Was pretty consistently at 13 before. Now fairly consistently in the 14-14.5 rage when running. I'm going with stator.
Bump. Turns out it's not fixed.
Ran like an absolute champ in over the hood blower all day sunday. Not a single hiccup. Came back on fumes after 3 hours. It was exactly the kind of day where it would have acted up in the past.
I went out yesterday with a buddy riding it and it started doing its thing again after only riding for about 30 minutes. He shut it off and then it wouldn't start. Then after waiting about 15 minutes it would start and then straight up die on him once riding. There's been so much snow in CA, I'm sure there's water getting into the hood but still. It's a snowmobile. That should be okay.
So it did run completely differently with a new stator and fuel pump. Now I'm back to chasing shlt down and throwing parts at it. But it's something cutting the fuel. Spark is always fine.
Ran like an absolute champ in over the hood blower all day sunday. Not a single hiccup. Came back on fumes after 3 hours. It was exactly the kind of day where it would have acted up in the past.
I went out yesterday with a buddy riding it and it started doing its thing again after only riding for about 30 minutes. He shut it off and then it wouldn't start. Then after waiting about 15 minutes it would start and then straight up die on him once riding. There's been so much snow in CA, I'm sure there's water getting into the hood but still. It's a snowmobile. That should be okay.
So it did run completely differently with a new stator and fuel pump. Now I'm back to chasing shlt down and throwing parts at it. But it's something cutting the fuel. Spark is always fine.
B
I don’t know if this may help but I had a F7 that acted the same way. I figured out that the plug going into the ECU would get iced over and when it would sit, it would loose connection. After warming up, it ran awesome but it was always the second ride that caused me troubles. Maybe get some dielectric grease and make sure your plugs going into the ECU are not getting moisture. Also, I had one problem with the ECU pick-up hose (the clear hose that goes into the belly pan by the front right shock) get ice in it and it would throw off the ECU. I had to reposition it so when riding in the deep snow, the pick-up line woudn’t get clogged.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Mine did it as well. It turned out to be wire for the fuel injection had chaffed down to the bare inner wire under the exhaust Y pipe heat shield. When the sled got hot the pipe would expand and touch the inner wire shorting it out and the sled would die. Once the pipe cooled down and contracted, the sled would start and run normally. I repaired and wrapped the crap out of the wires and it hasn't ever happened again.
S
So, I was curious if this year has a pick up filter inside of the fuel tank? It could maybe sucking something up into the filter and clogging it and then after sitting it’s falling out back into the tank causing the filter to be clear. Also, what have you done for wiring checks? Have you checked your wires in your harness for opens, shorts to grounds, and shorts to wires? Is your killswitch plugged in? Even if it’s not plugged in those wires could be grounding out and causing it to kill the engine. Do you know where your main wiring harness ground is at? If you do, I would check to see the condition of that. Try isolating parts of the harness by unplugging it at certain points if possible.
