Diamond Drive oil alternative?
- Thread starter benjfire
- Start date
AMS OIL chaincase oil claims to be Diamond Drive compatible
B
Dude just get the 15oz bdx oil on ebay for $20 or the arctic cat oil is like $15 at a dealer. I would not mess around with something so cheap that is under $20. You do not want your DD to fail in the middle of nowhere, believe me I have had it happen 5 miles in at 12,000 feet, its a bitch.
atf all the way.
Lubrication Engineers 7500 oil. Best oil I have ever used. Been using in chain cases and diamond drives for years. Helps repel moisture and stays on the gears even over the summer.
C
ATF..
I have about 1,000 miles on a switch to the double row bearing at ATF. Haven't had any issues so far. I'm a firm believer that most diamond drive issues are related to bearing failure and people failing to split it apart and inspect it.
I have about 1,000 miles on a switch to the double row bearing at ATF. Haven't had any issues so far. I'm a firm believer that most diamond drive issues are related to bearing failure and people failing to split it apart and inspect it.
M
Correct. I run Amsoil in all of my other sleds. I was glad to see it is compatible with the AC Diamond Drive. I plan on using it for my next change.
B
I've used the AC stuff, used the amsoil for a while, but now use royal purple gear oil. So far I like using the royal purple the best, oil changes are very clean, almost like new oil is coming out.
T
Hy Gard
I have had no issues running John Deere Hy Gard. I know several others who also run it. There is also a low viscosity version. I work at a dealer so finding a little leftover in Jugs in the shop is easy. Makes changing the oil free for me. I think it's about $18 a gallon so you'd have plenty to change it often if needed. Deere calls for it in tons of applications. We have a service truck that has been running it in front and rear diff for over 120,000 miles, no issues.
Just a thought for an inexpensive alternative.
I have had no issues running John Deere Hy Gard. I know several others who also run it. There is also a low viscosity version. I work at a dealer so finding a little leftover in Jugs in the shop is easy. Makes changing the oil free for me. I think it's about $18 a gallon so you'd have plenty to change it often if needed. Deere calls for it in tons of applications. We have a service truck that has been running it in front and rear diff for over 120,000 miles, no issues.
Just a thought for an inexpensive alternative.
A Little History
The founders of the Diamond Drive were John Deere Employees and the first Planetaries were off the shelf John Deere parts. So it stands to reason that the John Deere Oils would be fine.
I did have a phone conversation with them once and they claimed to have tried a bunch of oils to find the right one, as the Diamond Drive turns roughly two times faster than it ever would have in the donor tractor. It could have just been a sales pitch for their oil, but in the short conversation we had it was hard to tell.
The founders of the Diamond Drive were John Deere Employees and the first Planetaries were off the shelf John Deere parts. So it stands to reason that the John Deere Oils would be fine.
I did have a phone conversation with them once and they claimed to have tried a bunch of oils to find the right one, as the Diamond Drive turns roughly two times faster than it ever would have in the donor tractor. It could have just been a sales pitch for their oil, but in the short conversation we had it was hard to tell.
IMO the brand of oil isn't the issue, most are very good. As long as it's fairly thin (low viscosity). I run Amsoil synthetic chain case oil, which is great and expensive. ATF or hydraulic oil would probably work just fine.
The main problem is the little 6203 / 5203 / 3203 bearing fails due to thrust loads from the aluminum tunnel and track drive shaft mismatch. Some sleds have the problem and others don't. The track drive shaft should be in tension between the two main support bearings attached to the tunnel. When the track drive shaft is too long, it jams back into the DD and ruins the little radial bearing.
The 6203 bearing was never intended to take thrust loads. It's only real purpose is to center the planetary gears. The 5203 can take much more thrust load, and the SKF 3203 can take several times more thrust load (3203 has the same overall dimensions as the 5203, with better metallurgy, better internal dimensions and precision surface finish).
The main problem is the little 6203 / 5203 / 3203 bearing fails due to thrust loads from the aluminum tunnel and track drive shaft mismatch. Some sleds have the problem and others don't. The track drive shaft should be in tension between the two main support bearings attached to the tunnel. When the track drive shaft is too long, it jams back into the DD and ruins the little radial bearing.
The 6203 bearing was never intended to take thrust loads. It's only real purpose is to center the planetary gears. The 5203 can take much more thrust load, and the SKF 3203 can take several times more thrust load (3203 has the same overall dimensions as the 5203, with better metallurgy, better internal dimensions and precision surface finish).
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