Ctec2 Crank part numbers

Goinboardin

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1905-004 is the part number for a 2018-2021 Ctec2 crankshaft. I noticed one site (Babbits) lists that it was superseded by 1905-018. I see that's the number for the 2021 engine. Anyone know what was changed to the crank itself? Can I drop the 2021 crank into my 2018 cases? Rod bearing failed on my '18 and need to replace the crank (or have it repaired). Amazingly the top end is OK, otherwise it would be long block time.
 

Goinboardin

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After some looking around at long block and short block part numbers across the years it is evident these are interchangeable cranks, and another person in the know said the new number does supersede the old.

So the remaining question: what's different? Is this an improvement or just Textron cutting more costs? The newer part number is notably cheaper.
 

Goinboardin

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New crank is made in India, old was made in Japan. Almost identical. Well, at least the bearings are Indian and Japanese, can't actually say the crank itself is from either country.
PXL_20210108_013117546.jpg
PXL_20210108_013236289.jpg
PXL_20210108_013303119.jpg
Big difference is that the Mag side outer main bearing is different; can't use the old style bearing on the new style crank. New crank has a 0.008" larger diameter at the bearing location.

The rod pins appear to be peened or something. Maybe that's an improvement.
PXL_20210108_014159862.jpg

I didn't know the bearings weren't compatible, so another week of "special order" wait times. Yippee.

Seals are all the same. Pto bearing is the same.
 

CO 2.0

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Thanks for the info. Put the BDX filter system in your hood. Your failure is the exact same as the 3 18-19 motors I've blown. Matt and me were talking and we think that my failures were water ingestion. And I have my hood and intakes sealed up well. 2 of my failures happened on deep up to the hood snow days. These motors are already not getting enough oil to the crank, so any added water vapor into the engine on top of it is not good.
 

tenacious84

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New crank is made in India, old was made in Japan. Almost identical. Well, at least the bearings are Indian and Japanese, can't actually say the crank itself is from either country.
View attachment 365055
View attachment 365056
View attachment 365057
Big difference is that the Mag side outer main bearing is different; can't use the old style bearing on the new style crank. New crank has a 0.008" larger diameter at the bearing location.

The rod pins appear to be peened or something. Maybe that's an improvement.
View attachment 365059

I didn't know the bearings weren't compatible, so another week of "special order" wait times. Yippee.

Seals are all the same. Pto bearing is the same.
yes, the two parts numbers are 100% interchangeable. the crankshafts are assembled in st. cloud. the japan/india markings are simply for the bearing manufacturers as that is typical markings in the bearing industry. I'm guessing the other components come from different locations.

just a little clarification, that is a bearing race that you are showing/referencing in your photos. since you took it apart, you already know there are two parts to the bearing, the race and the roller section, but for other people i thought it appropriate to point out. typically when someone buys this type of bearing (across all industries) it comes with a new race as the tolerances are ridiculously tight. in this instance AC must have decided to install the bearing race for the consumer. therefore, the bearings (old vs. new) would not necessarily be different because both would still have the same ID (diameter around the crankshaft), OD (crankcase cavity), and width. however, you are correct in that you can't typically use one bearing's roller section with another bearing's race. i know it's really just semantics because you still have to get the new bearing to make it work. hopefully things go smoother going forward.
 
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Goinboardin

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Jordan,
Yeah could be that, steam cleaning bearings under load certainly isn't good for them.

This sled had about 1200 miles on it when I bought it (cheap), and I wouldn't say it was looked after. I pulled the hood off to find it wasn't seated right, the main plenum wasn't sealed, and it still had the crap '18 upper intake setup with huge gaps. Before I rode it I fully sealed the hood, updated the upper intake to the '19+ style, and replaced the main rubber seal (then greased the crap out of it). Premixed fuel at about 100:1. Airbox was dry last season but I'm sure the bearings had already had a hard life. The pistons visually looked pretty good but the skirts were pretty much collapsed to the wear limit.

I had injector issues end of the year last season, sled was pretty weak because of that. First ride this season had fresh injectors (properly programmed) with a new harness, and it ran hard. I wonder if that didn't finish off the crank during that last long hard pull. Mag rod bearing was squared, PTO rod rollers were blue, other bearings look great. No codes and oil pump functions.

Anyway, $100 is cheap extra insurance. I've got one ordered, thanks for the tip.
 

Goinboardin

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New crank with correct mag bearing went in Saturday, along with the Protectair. Purged the pump. Filled the tank too the top. Rode Sunday, pretty mellow day. 5 gallons fuel, 8 oz oil burned from the oil injection, 80:1. Crazy. Had the fuel premixed at 85:1 as well. Going to continue doing that moving forward.
 

tenacious84

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New crank with correct mag bearing went in Saturday, along with the Protectair. Purged the pump. Filled the tank too the top. Rode Sunday, pretty mellow day. 5 gallons fuel, 8 oz oil burned from the oil injection, 80:1. Crazy. Had the fuel premixed at 85:1 as well. Going to continue doing that moving forward.
just curious how you measured the oil? fill to the bottom of the throat on the oil reservoir, then use a metered container to refill to the same point?
 

Goinboardin

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just curious how you measured the oil? fill to the bottom of the throat on the oil reservoir, then use a metered container to refill to the same point?
I filled the tank to the top of the neck, as full as I could. Rode for the day. Refilled with fuel using the same pump. Then put 16oz oil in a plastic measuring cup, refilled the oil tank back to the top, as full as I could, and noted how much oil (of the 16oz) I used.
 
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