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CRTPRO

joshkoltes

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ranchester, wy - nashua, mn
might as well start another project.
picked this up, boosted it, made it most of the year, then t-boned a tree at WOT.
2012-05-01_17-57-00_342.jpg

DAMAGE
2012-06-07_21-16-16_1.jpg

2012-06-07_19-27-42_185.jpg

straightened it out, then put it on the rocks
the track was rubbing, and the rocks vandalized the running board
2012-06-16_18-32-05_398.jpg

time for rework
 

joshkoltes

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new parts

cr racing tunnel, fresh top end, and a few other doodads
2013-01-17_16-08-04_796.jpg

2013-01-18_18-16-59_506.jpg

2013-01-21_00-14-41_897.jpg

pistons looked good but changed them anyhow
2013-01-25_22-47-34_615.jpg

mic'd the bores and the pto was 3.349 top and bottom. mag was 3.349 bottom and 3.350 top
2013-01-27_18-47-37_333.jpg

polished the ex port and sharpened the transfers
2013-01-27_17-06-40_259.jpg

2013-01-26_19-39-21_36.jpg

2013-02-01_17-51-20_378_zps6ffaa62e.jpg

ready for assembly
 

joshkoltes

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its all glue and rivets these days.
rebuild time
2013-01-21_04-33-17_671.jpg

2013-02-01_21-59-16_355_zps9cdd098c.jpg

this wire harness is such a mess. i shoulda took better pics to document where it all was routed
2013-02-02_01-44-48_232_zps5cd7d3fa.jpg

2013-02-03_17-57-06_534_zps2a59f6b1.jpg

2013-02-03_20-59-25_205_zps80f17e67.jpg

and back on it own three feet
2013-02-04_01-20-09_135_zps06dcf499.jpg
 
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joshkoltes

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man my camera really is getting crappy.

im torn between where to head from this point. either just put the kit on as it came off or upgrade it but need to wait for parts. there isnt much snow yet so waiting might not be unheard of.

probably just put it togather as is and wish for new parts.
 

joshkoltes

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started it. idles smooth. was spraying gas bad. fyi those band clamps on the homade fuel filter line need to be cranked down hard!

widdled down my kill switch, mounted the tank and seat. myomy am i sick of turning round holes square with a jewlers file set.

does anyone have a pic of the wires at the top of the overstructure? i have such a rat nest up there, would be nice to straighten out
 

joshkoltes

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looks like it was held togather entirely with zip ties
2013-02-06_19-40-58_307_zps0523216e.jpg

tank and seat on, glad im done filing holes square
2013-02-06_18-04-18_101_zpsfbb216c6.jpg

widdled down the horn switch
2012-10-06_14-58-14_325.jpg

beep beep
2013-02-07_03-18-16_729_zps8200e1a8.jpg

running vid
 

joshkoltes

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thanks, i think that slp led light adds a nice touch too. especially how i hid the wires

it was 1700+320 for powder+ 120 for drop brackets+ 240 shipping+ 136 customs release. +96 for glue+ 80 for rivets
he has a new design bord out, but i didnt wait for it

got a new case thinking it was magnesium, and im not set up for welding that. if you look close the bottom mount tab was broke off.
 

rydningen

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May 9, 2009
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Northern Norway
It sure does, allways good to se the results after numerous hours fiddling with small details!

Have been thinking about the same taillight setup for my VE tunnell, but I have not found a good way to route the wires yet. Theres three sleds in our group riding with the lights under the seat, so far this has cost us two front bumpers this season;)

I see, didnt notice the tab missing. Do you want to get rid of the damaged case? If so send me a PM, I am planning to change the drivers for some 7T and need to get it welded to fit anyway:)
 

joshkoltes

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Dec 16, 2007
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ranchester, wy - nashua, mn
It sure does, allways good to se the results after numerous hours fiddling with small details!

Have been thinking about the same taillight setup for my VE tunnell, but I have not found a good way to route the wires yet. Theres three sleds in our group riding with the lights under the seat, so far this has cost us two front bumpers this season;)

I see, didnt notice the tab missing. Do you want to get rid of the damaged case? If so send me a PM, I am planning to change the drivers for some 7T and need to get it welded to fit anyway:)

Not sure i like the way i routed my wires or if its going to work but it sure took some effort. Its hardly noticeable. From the light i loomed it over to the side via cable clamps on the flap bolts. Through a rubber grommet loomed it down to the rear of the board. Good thing about that is the tunnel has a tiangular box break there to cover it up and re installing the bumper pinches the loomed wire from any movement. The boards are riveted to the tunnel so there is a seam just wide enough for the wires to sit in. I had separated all three and epoxied them into the seam nice and straight. I cut the old tail light lead to solder to my wires at the front of the board so its plug and play.

Simple enough haha
 

joshkoltes

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thought i was at the finish line
2013-02-12_00-13-52_915_zpsaaa80113.jpg


but have a major problem,

with the slp alignment tool it looks like i have over 1/8 gap on the secondarys back when tight on the front. my 3 similar rubber mounts look kinda worn but the left front different one looks trashed. and the touque link rubber is cracked.

i have them all loose following the service manual. and with a pry bar it dosnt seem to help the alignment. and besides when you sinch them back up itll go back to center anyway? if a guy moves the front right mount forward it side loads everything right?
im thinking about building a spacer to go behind the back right mount? might help? any other ideas?

how much spacer does everybody else have behind their secondary? i have about a half inch! somthing isnt right here

is replaceing these going to help this or i wonder if my bulkhead is trashed?
 
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joshkoltes

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i tweaked and torqued things around and got it down to .074 but im still waiting on new mounts.

after i get the new ones i can really start to make some changes.

if my motor has to twist counter clock wise as it does now, i can add a spacer behind the right rear mount bracket. but how much? at the moment i need to move .020- .030 measured from the secondary clutch outside rear. so is the distance realitive in association with my shim idea? if i add .020 behind the mount will that move my alignment tool the same distance added? i think it should, thinking like a teeter toter the left rear mount is the folcrum

but there is still all that spacer washer behind the secondary im curious about. does anyone look at stuff anymore?
 

joshkoltes

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got it!

I added the new mounts and sinched it down. That took me from .074 all the way out to .102! So i tore it down enough to crib the motor up and start shimming. While prying and looking at things i started with .250. That ended up being about double it dang near zeroed the alignment tool. So i cut new shims out of .127 and added a .025 shim to that.
At the end of it all i slotted the front motor mount- mount holes to fit.
!! Ended up with .044!!!! Pretty happy about that

2013-02-16_01-16-57_423_zpsfe225bc1.jpg
 
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