Clutching

[150+ or nothin]

Would bottom end/mid range be snappier with clickers on five clickers or on one with the same peak RPM? I am looking for strong bottom end/midrange and can load pins with washers as necessary to hit peak RPM.

The application is trying to decrease turbo lag for a second while waiting for the boost to build.

 

[kanedog]

Try a 20 tooth top gear. Stock is 21. It will make it snappier without spending $500 for a clutch kit.

 

[caper11]

Would bottom end/mid range be snappier with clickers on five clickers or on one with the same peak RPM? I am looking for strong bottom end/midrange and can load pins with washers as necessary to hit peak RPM.

The application is trying to decrease turbo lag for a second while waiting for the boost to build.

Getting fresh air is critical for throttle response.

You will loose trackspeed on higher clickers. What turbo is it and, Whats the clutch setup your currently running. In a turbo, the helix is the key at reducing turbo lag.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Look at your secondary clutch spring start force.
Raise the secondary clutch spring start force.
IF you have a 160/xxx, THEN go to a 200/xxx start force.
Like say the red 210/305 that is a popular secondary spring.

Aaen rule; the higher the spring force, the higher the rpm.

You can leave the engagement speed alone in the primary clutch. Raise the "part throttle engine speed" by taking the secondary spring start force and raise it. So now going from a 160/xxx to a 200ish/xxx secondary spring start force; youll find that running around at low track speeds, picking your way through the trees, the engine speed will be higher at part throttle. The engine will have more rpms built up, ready to rev up quicker at part throttle speeds.

You can also choose a primary clutch ramp (cam arm) that is less aggressive in the bottom end that will rev quicker off the bottom end.

 

[kanedog]

Dynamo Joe has returned from a hiatus. Welcome back Dynamo Joe!

 

[caper11]

The BD turbo I installed on a G4 had no lag, felt like a 200hp stocker.

Still wondering what kit it is, I refused to use BD recommended clutching, its also important to use the stock head on the G4.

 

[150+ or nothin]

The BD turbo I installed on a G4 had no lag, felt like a 200hp stocker.

Still wondering what kit it is, I refused to use BD recommended clutching, its also important to use the stock head on the G4.

Hi Guys,

Its a 2020 expert 155 with a new silber setup with Silber recommended clutching with stock head on a 5 psi setup at ~9,500 feet. 3 psi at 1,500 feet and bottom end is awesome. It’s not bad at 9,500 by any means, but I am just looking to see what the easiest options are to make bottom end a little sharper. Running 60% 91 pump / 40% 100LL so I am a bit over-octane for 5 psi at 9,500. The helix idea makes sense to me. I will have to think about the gearing change.

I am looking for the easiest/cheapest thing to do to wake up bottom end. I was hoping somebody would say run more pin weight with clickers on 5, but I don’t fully understand how the clickers effect bottom end.
Thanks to everybody for trying to help.

 

[caper11]

Do you know what the clutching setup is???

 

[kanedog]

Put a 20 tooth top gear in. It will have more zing down low and won’t affect top speed. $60.

 

[kanedog]

Dynamo Joe has returned from a hiatus. Welcome back Dynamo Joe!

Screw you DJ. No likes for me, no love for you. I will have to expose the truth about your “mountain clutching” now. Haha

 

[150+ or nothin]

Put a 20 tooth top gear in. It will have more zing down low and won’t affect top speed. $60.

There must be some merit to what you are saying but I just don’t fully understand it yet. It looks like the 2020 n/a stock gearing is 21 tooth top and 51 tooth bottom. The 2020.5 ski doo turbo sled is 21 tooth top and 53 tooth bottom. They went about it in a slightly different way but it would have the same gear down effect you are saying to do. I am having a hard time understanding how since the secondary is “load sensing” it wouldn’t just react to the decrease in load but maybe it takes some time for the “load sensing” shifting to occur? I have been told that the most efficient clutching is when the belt is running on the same effective sized primary and secondary sheaves so maybe it achieves that?

I am trying to learn here and I have plenty of humility when it comes to clutching. I can check tomorrow night exactly what the current setup is.

 

[kanedog]

Olav Aaen’s clutching handbook will explain it better than anyone. Cheers!

 

[skank]

I think I would try less octane for starters. My BD setup gets quite lazy on the bottom if I put only one extra gallon of race gas in. It’s pretty touchy.
I stick to 20% AV gas and that’s on 6-8 lbs boost.

 

[caper11]

Do you have lag like you hit the throttle and nothing is there or is your bottem end lazy?


Things to check, too much tip weight in a adjustable flyweight kit will produce a lazy bottom end.

The sled I turboed and tuned had 21/51 gearing in it and it was mint. super responsive. The owner started adding tip weight cause he thought it was a good idea and made the bottom end very lazy. Got even worse when a pump gas head was put on. Oh well, some people.

 

[150+ or nothin]

Do you have lag like you hit the throttle and nothing is there or is your bottem end lazy?


Things to check, too much tip weight in a adjustable flyweight kit will produce a lazy bottom end.

The sled I turboed and tuned had 21/51 gearing in it and it was mint.

super responsive. The owner started adding tip weight cause he thought it was a good idea and made the bottom end very lazy. Got even worse when a pump gas head was put on. Oh well, some people.

Primary is stock weights with purple/yellow spring. Secondary is orange spring with 43-47 helix. I am trying to find a chart showing what spring rates those colors actually are.

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

Screw you DJ. No likes for me, no love for you. I will have to expose the truth about your “mountain clutching” now. Haha

Its flatlander clutching. Im a flatlander.....flat....like your a$s

 

[kanedog]

I love you now anyway. I watched a Dynamo Joe you tube clutching vid and it saved me at lifetime of tuning and clutching pain. It was the spacer inside the spring cup that prevents the galling. I was looking for Tra full shift out and I had to machine the sheave for full shift out but I didn’t know about the spacer so I was able to take a bit off off it. Now I get full shift out and no galling. Man, I know I thanked you a thousand times in my head. Thanks for the vids! I have a bubble butt tho!

 

[MDS]

MDS Clutching has a kit that this issue was the main focus for tech/tree riding. Very responsive throttle response! If you'd like more info mdsclutching@yahoo.com

 

[millnoff]

I love you now anyway. I watched a Dynamo Joe you tube clutching vid and it saved me at lifetime of tuning and clutching pain. It was the spacer inside the spring cup that prevents the galling. I was looking for Tra full shift out and I had to machine the sheave for full shift out but I didn’t know about the spacer so I was able to take a bit off off it. Now I get full shift out and no galling. Man, I know I thanked you a thousand times in my head. Thanks for the vids! I have a bubble butt tho!

I pulled that spacer completely on mine to get full shift. Note I'm wondering if I should just mill it out sooner? Glue much did you take off of yours?

 

[Dynamo^Joe]

millnoff. What is your gearing? What is the top gear? What is the bottom gear?
Joey