Clutching help

[Toad face killah]

HI everyone. I have a buddy that is all of a sudden having some clutching issues and since I ride Polaris, its all just a little out of my realm of knowledge so I'm hoping for some help.

Sled: 2010 ski doo summit 800 cc 154 track. 3000 or so miles. we ride anywhere from 4,500 ft to 8,000 ft. He has never touched the clutches. not a clean, not a new spring.

He's getting better as a rider and was realizing his rpms were garbage up high so we started moving the clutch clickers to higher numbers to get rpms back. That worked great. But now his belt is sitting about 1" low on his secondary clutch at idle. lots of slop in his belt. Im assuming either he has a broken spring or too much dirt and grime inside the clutches to allow them proper movement.

Primary clutch: Im assuming its time to take off his primary clutch for a good cleaning and new springs. What clutch puller do I need him to get? according to SLP website, theres 2... I think P drive is only on the new 850s? so go with the other option? should I just have him put in stock spring or go with SLP kit for weights and springs? If going SLP kit, can you lead me in the right direction? Can I do all of this work without a clutch press? When pulling off clutch, is there anything I need to know different than doing it on my Polaris? I usually use the tighten, pound, tighten, pound method until it pops off. I have seen some methods for pulling it off with water and teflon tape as well.... is that a good option?

secondary clutch: Ill take this one off sled too. Should I e replacing spring on this one too? Can I get by without clutch press? I have used a stick of all thread with washers and nuts before to tighten it ack together as means of a homemade clutch press.....

Anything else I should be looking for? On the shaft of secondary clutch, there is a black metal collar piece that I assume goes in and out to change height of belt in secondary? what do I need to know to approach messing with the collar.

 

[jdrmx]

Sounds like theres a secondary clutch problem if the belt is way low in the sheave. But a rebuild kit for the primary from skidoo. Or at the very least just clean it. Do the water trick removal on the clutch. Its been well documented here.
Also more than likely theres either a broken spring or broken axles in the secondary clutch. The primary is probably fine.


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[winter brew]

Sounds like a broken secondary roller. they break and a piece gets lodged, holding the sheaves apart. Hi-Torque (brand name) makes a roller that will not likely ever break for about the same price as stock.
He should replace both springs and do a primary maintenance kit from Doo...WAY cheaper then buying the individual parts. At 3,000 miles it is past due for some love. It gets expensive if let go too long.

 

[yamikilr]

after the fix ..tell him to" blow out" both clutches every two rides .

 

[Toad face killah]

sounds great. thats all about what I figured on all of the suggestions. I will give him some guidance on getting things fixed

 

[Toad face killah]

Okay this may be a stupid question, but how do you pull of the secondary on a ski doo xp? it looks way harder and more involved than my Polaris.

We watched a quick video online and it shows pulling off the rubber plug on the chaincase to remove a bolt and then use a clutch tool to remove the clutch and shaft?? then what tool do I need to remove the helix?

 

[Toad face killah]

Okay this may be a stupid question, but how do you pull of the secondary on a ski doo xp? it looks way harder and more involved than my Polaris.

We watched a quick video online and it shows pulling off the rubber plug on the chaincase to remove a bolt and then use a clutch tool to remove the clutch and shaft?? then what tool do I need to remove the helix?

 

[slednfool]

Yep, pull the plug, remove the bolt. Careful there's a spacer behind the gear. I use a propane torch to warm the bearing support behind the secondary up a little. Then thread in a longer bolt for something to tap the shaft out without ruining the threads. I use an extension to hold the gear and spacer if I'm not pulling the cover. Once the secondary and shaft are out break the four helix bolts loose, a little heat helps again. I can set it up in a press to hold the helix then remove the four bolts and carefully relieve the pressure on the spring.

 

[winter brew]

QRS compressor ideally. Or a piece of wood with a hole to put the threaded portion of the jackshaft through and a extra set of hands to hold the movable sheave down as you remove helix bolts. There are 4 #40 torx bolts. Heat them up to avoid breaking bits and loctite when it goes back together.
Note the reverse notches on the helix that align with the rollers.
It's actually pretty easy once you do it a few times.
Don't miss the spacer behind the top gear. I would remove the chaincase cover the first time to get a better feel for whats going on.