Clutch tool

[Turbotim2]

05 XC 800 SP


I went to remove the belt today using the clutch tool. It threaded in about 3/8" and broke off. Never budged the clutch. Any thoughts on why this would happen?

 

[GoHiSK1]

Maybe Maybe the the helix in the secondary is/was engaged in reverse . Clutch will not open if indeed it is in the reverse portion of the helix.

 

[kanedog]

Can you post a pic? Thx

 

[Turbotim2]

Here's a picture, not sure if you can see much.

 

[kanedog]

Thk u for posting. I can’t tell from the pic but it could be cross threaded, or something might be blocking the threads in there. Take your time and it’ll workout for you. I’ve had this happen too but I can’t remember. I think I was rushing and cross threaded.
Post what the fix was so others can learn. Cheers!

 

[Turbotim2]

It's not cross threaded, I got it out. It turned in easily about 3/8" and then made contact. I continued turning to open the clutch, it was kind of hard turning then it broke off. I used vise grips to release tension on the broken end and then spun it the rest of the way by hand.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Maybe Maybe the the helix in the secondary is/was engaged in reverse . Clutch will not open if indeed it is in the reverse portion of the helix.

That's one potential culprit. I always make a point not to just turn off my sled after reversing (my newer sled; my EDGE doesn't have reverse ). I just know I'm going to forget some time and try to take the belt off with it in the reverse detent otherwise. Moving on from that, did you feel like you were twisting pretty hard on the tool? It could just be it had a weak spot and broke. Doesn't sound like a cross-threaded or mis-threaded problem. If it were me, I'd run it forward to make sure it's not in the reverse detent, then try a long bolt with matching thread. It shouldn't take much torque though, so don't try to force it.

 

[Turbotim2]

It was definitely in forward gear when I shut it off. Can you remove the belt using the old method?

 

[Turbotim2]

When using the tool it took quite a bit of force. I also ttried the bolt idea as well.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

Hmmm, it sounds to me like something's damaged internally causing the back sheave to bind up. I can't think of any reason you couldn't use the old method, but I've never tried it; I've always used the tool on my newer sled.

 

[Turbotim2]

It was acting strange, I thought I had burned the belt up in it which was the reason I was trying to remove it. VVery high revving before engagement sometimes but not others and the smell of burning belt.

 

[Turbotim2]

I managed to get the belt off by using a pry bar to separate the shieves. I pulled the clutch aand removed the helix. Nothing appeared broken or damaged. With the helix out, I tried using the bolt to separate the shieves and it still wouldn't budge. I cleaned it and reassembled and went for a ride. It's working fine but I probably won't be able to change the belt on the trail.

 

[retiredpop]

Did you remove the roller assembly and spring while you had the clutch off?

 

[Turbotim2]

No, I don't have a spring compressor (by looking at it, one would be needed) that would work on that.

 

[BeartoothBaron]

You can buy a dedicated tool to compress the spring, but I was able to get mine apart and back together with some all-thread, nuts and washers, and a ball joint tool with an opening big enough to get at the snap ring. I've been able to get the older button clutches apart using my foot to compress the spring, but those come apart a little differently; you might be able to get it by hand with one person compressing the spring and the other handling the snap ring though. Either way, the snap ring pliers is the only dedicated tool you definitely need. You won't hurt anything as long as you're careful about it: make sure you're compressing roller assembly evenly, and don't force anything. A copy of the service manual would be helpful. Anyway, I can't say something's definitely broken; it's just that if it were me, I wouldn't want to take it very far until I got it all apart and made sure nothing was broken (or obviously, take the secondary to a shop that can check it over and fix if necessary)

 

[retiredpop]

Yes, that spring is pretty strong.

 

[Turbotim2]

Yeah, I can probably make one just as easy and get that off.

 

[whoisthatguy]

Squirt a little lithium spray grease into the tool hole and it will improve the process significantly.

 

[Turbotim2]

Well after taking it apart and reassembly, I can now open the sheaves with a bolt. I must have loosened something up in the process. Thank you all for the help!