Cleanest way to add 25hp?

BD-Xtreme

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Arctic Cat Ctec Mods

Assume pipe mod requires fuel controller?

Do you have dyno runs for this kit as is and with the pipe mod by chance? Would be interesting to see.
The new Ctec motor runs quite rich actually. You can do the whole bolt on kit with no fuel controller. The 2.5 degree timig key works perfect with it too.

Dynotech will be posting some independent results in the near future.
They already have the pipe mod listed on his page from last year.
 

niner

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What are you running for weights with the y pipe?

Looking at doing the Y Pipe as well as pipe.
I’m running a custom cut multi angle helix from SSI also. You can go to Altitude Power Sports Facebook page and ask Ben what he came up with. Make sure it works for your elevation. We have been working all winter on fine tuning this set up.
 

Frostbite

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based on my past experiences on my 09 M8 and my 15 M8000. I would be adding looking very hard at this as a start.

https://www.startinglineproducts.com/snow/arctic-cat/exhaust/arctic-cat-800-pipe-set1-8021.html

I addition I typically add either Boyesen Rage Cages or V Force Reeds, a high compression head and MDS clutching to match.

Or

to knock it all out in one shot: Saves 21 lbs and adds 21 horsepower.

https://www.startinglineproducts.com/snow/arctic-cat/ac-stage-kits/stage-4-for-2018-19-arctic-cat-m8000.html

As a secret trick and to get your other 4 horsepower. I add this to most tanks of gas.

http://www.klotzlube.com/power_additives.html

I also have these in each of my sleds and bikes: I think it helps keep the fuel from getting stale but, others may think it's snake oil.

https://fitchfuelcatalyst.com/recreational-vehicles
 
Last edited:

ak

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based on my past experiences on my 09 M8 and my 15 M8000. I would be adding looking very hard at this as a start.

https://www.startinglineproducts.com/snow/arctic-cat/exhaust/arctic-cat-800-pipe-set1-8021.html

I addition I typically add either Boyesen Rage Cages or V Force Reeds, a high compression head and MDS clutching to match.

Or

to knock it all out in one shot: Saves 21 lbs and adds 21 horsepower.

https://www.startinglineproducts.com/snow/arctic-cat/ac-stage-kits/stage-4-for-2018-19-arctic-cat-m8000.html

As a secret trick and to get your other 4 horsepower. I add this to most tanks of gas.

http://www.klotzlube.com/power_additives.html

I also have these in each of my sleds and bikes: I think it helps keep the fuel from getting stale but, others may think it's snake oil.

https://fitchfuelcatalyst.com/recreational-vehicles


What I find on Facebook is the Slp pipe doesn’t have very good reviews, on the
Ctech motor. Several people say it doesn’t make a noticeable difference unless you go stage 3 are stage4. The speedwerx and the bikeman pipe have better reviews.
 

Frostbite

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That's interesting, SLP pipes have always had great reviews on the Suzuki motor. I don't think I have ever read a bad review.

From what I understand, the CTEC engine is based on the very best attributes of the Suzuki engine which were incorporated with the latest technology to bring us a modern version of the laydown engine. Maybe there is a good reason but, I don't know why the SLP pipes would all of a sudden not perform as well on what is essentially an updated version of the same engine.

Based on my past experiences, I would love to see the SLP pipes stacked up against the rest because I would guess they would perform at least as well as the other brands mentioned.

Sadly, sometime internet buzz creates more sales than real world results.
 
Feb 26, 2008
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The poor SLP reviews are due to the complete garbage they sent out for mapping. They run pretty strong once theyre tuned correctly.
Looking at the maps it would appear that they either have no idea how to map or just used autotune on one sled and figured that was enough.
 

Frostbite

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That makes sense. I think if mapped properly, their pipes would perform right with the very best for the CTEC engine.

Did they send a poorly calibrated Power Commander pre programed with their tailored mapping for their pipes for testing? Yes, if they missed the mark by that much, shame on them!

It would be interesting to test their single pipe setup with a good mapping program from one of the other brands that perform well. I think people might be surprised at the results.
 

HCR10

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I'm running 2 alphas both 154 first one has light weight seat, tank, hood, mvm belt drive, balanced lighted clutches, full bikeman pipe and silber reflash. This sled feels stupid light and runs amazing pulls really hard and is so fun to ride and gives my other sled thats a turbo a run for its money.

Second sled is alpha 154 light weight seat, tank hood, mvm belt drive and silber turbo running 8lbs and now that we got the mapping right it is incedible and will go anywhere you point it o ly thing i wish it was a 165 because it likes to pack the skis even locked out.

My opinion is it don't matter which sled you decide to ride that day they both rip and have plus/minuses but the more all around sled would be the non turbo. You can ride it 3 days straight in 3 foot powder and not get fatigued and it floats on top so it climbs like a tubo just not as fast but it will get there every time. Now if you were riding deep powder every day all season i would say the turbo is what you want. That being said your only about 2k difference between the two to build them.

Maybe that will help you find your way to 25 hp
 

ak

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I'm running 2 alphas both 154 first one has light weight seat, tank, hood, mvm belt drive, balanced lighted clutches, full bikeman pipe and silber reflash. This sled feels stupid light and runs amazing pulls really hard and is so fun to ride and gives my other sled thats a turbo a run for its money.

Second sled is alpha 154 light weight seat, tank hood, mvm belt drive and silber turbo running 8lbs and now that we got the mapping right it is incedible and will go anywhere you point it o ly thing i wish it was a 165 because it likes to pack the skis even locked out.

My opinion is it don't matter which sled you decide to ride that day they both rip and have plus/minuses but the more all around sled would be the non turbo. You can ride it 3 days straight in 3 foot powder and not get fatigued and it floats on top so it climbs like a tubo just not as fast but it will get there every time. Now if you were riding deep powder every day all season i would say the turbo is what you want. That being said your only about 2k difference between the two to build them.

Maybe that will help you find your way to 25 hp
Who lightweighted and balanced your clutches?
 

otist

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Your running a bmp pipe set and the silber reflash? With no fuel controller? With no issues
 

otist

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I'm running 2 alphas both 154 first one has light weight seat, tank, hood, mvm belt drive, balanced lighted clutches, full bikeman pipe and silber reflash. This sled feels stupid light and runs amazing pulls really hard and is so fun to ride and gives my other sled thats a turbo a run for its money.

Second sled is alpha 154 light weight seat, tank hood, mvm belt drive and silber turbo running 8lbs and now that we got the mapping right it is incedible and will go anywhere you point it o ly thing i wish it was a 165 because it likes to pack the skis even locked out.

My opinion is it don't matter which sled you decide to ride that day they both rip and have plus/minuses but the more all around sled would be the non turbo. You can ride it 3 days straight in 3 foot powder and not get fatigued and it floats on top so it climbs like a tubo just not as fast but it will get there every time. Now if you were riding deep powder every day all season i would say the turbo is what you want. That being said your only about 2k difference between the two to build them.

Maybe that will help you find your way to 25 hp








Your running a full bmp pipe set with a silber reflash? With no fuel controller? With no issues?
 
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