Check this one out! (chain case failure)

[nkaibrown]

We have a 2019 rmk 155 3" (with an intercooled boondocker running 100Ll and 10ish psi) that blew a chain yesterday. I even have it on video! I kinda "ass-u-me'd" that the chain was tensioned right by the last guy, but I'm betting it was loose... Anyhow, I jumped off a wind lip and landed hard in some dense snow with an over excited thumb, digging in and stopping in place. Snap! But, check this out. It shattered the lower pulley! Ever seen that before?



I think imma go ahead and get the tki belt drive conversion kit now, since both the chaincase cover and the chaincase itself are damaged, and it would cost just as much to repair as it would to buy the tki. Hopefully it'll be up and running by this weekend with all the fresh stuff we've got!!!

Imma find the video and put it in here hopefully, but it's not too exciting

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

We have a 2019 rmk 155 3" (with an intercooled boondocker running 100Ll and 10ish psi) that blew a chain yesterday. I even have it on video! I kinda "ass-u-me'd" that the chain was tensioned right by the last guy, but I'm betting it was loose... Anyhow, I jumped off a wind lip and landed hard in some dense snow with an over excited thumb, digging in and stopping in place. Snap! But, check this out. It shattered the lower pulley! Ever seen that before?

View attachment 382163

I think imma go ahead and get the tki belt drive conversion kit now, since both the chaincase cover and the chaincase itself are damaged, and it would cost just as much to repair as it would to buy the tki. Hopefully it'll be up and running by this weekend with all the fresh stuff we've got!!!

Imma find the video and put it in here hopefully, but it's not too exciting

All the oem chaincase gears need swapped to venom hardened steel.

The powder metal stock ones are crap and will all break just like that with n/a power. (Much less with boost)

It’s been the same since they went to the lightweight “thin” lower gear……. 2016….

 

[nkaibrown]

All the oem chaincase gears need swapped to venom hardened steel.

The powder metal stock ones are crap and will all break just like that with n/a power. (Much less with boost)

It’s been the same since they went to the lightweight “thin” lower gear……. 2016….

Oh shoot really? That's good to know. You're sayin the pulley probably broke before the chain?

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Oh shoot really? That's good to know. You're sayin the pulley probably broke before the chain?

That’s usually how they go.

Those lower pulleys shatter easy.

 

[nkaibrown]

That’s usually how they go.

Those lower pulleys shatter easy.

Wow, alright... Had no idea... Where do I find those gears you were talking about? I was looking online but didn't see any (stock ratio)

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Venom Products - Shop Our Products

Venom Products manufactures and sells drivetrain and CVT parts to make your ATV, Side-by-Side, Snowmobile or Golf Car perform.

venomproducts.com

 

[Ultrasauras]

my sons turbo 800 did the same thing this Saturday took him all day to get it out Sunday absolutely nothing is reuse able except for a few bolts. We to wish we would have know about this as we would have addressed it. Now do we go TKI or Stock Polaris belt drive?

 

[Over budget]

TKI FOR SURE

 

[nkaibrown]

Venom Products - Shop Our Products

Venom Products manufactures and sells drivetrain and CVT parts to make your ATV, Side-by-Side, Snowmobile or Golf Car perform.

venomproducts.com

Thanks dude.

Okay guys so I think I'm going to go with the tki belt conversion. I just need to decide if I need to replace the driveshaft bearing. (And maybe the entire chaincase but hopefully not)

There is a bit of damage to the seal of the driveshaft bearing as seen below, and a crack in the chaincase where the chain blew it out on the right. Otherwise no hairline fractures or other damage



So, if it were you, how much would you replace? How hard is it to get that driveshaft bearing out? Thanks

 

[PSI 800]

Replace both bearings as its not hard to do and especially since 1 has visible damage. 40 dollars in parts and a little bit of time saves a lot of headache in the mountains. Correct me if i'm wrong, doesnt the TKI system use the stock chain case as part of the system? since there is no need for oil now with a belt drive the crack in the case should not matter.

 

[nkaibrown]

Replace both bearings as its not hard to do and especially since 1 has visible damage. 40 dollars in parts and a little bit of time saves a lot of headache in the mountains. Correct me if i'm wrong, doesnt the TKI system use the stock chain case as part of the system? since there is no need for oil now with a belt drive the crack in the case should not matter.

Yes yes and yes. That's what I was leaning towards. I guess I'll just remove the driveshaft then? Is that necessary? Or do I pop them out from behind? Thanks

 

[nkaibrown]

my sons turbo 800 did the same thing this Saturday took him all day to get it out Sunday absolutely nothing is reuse able except for a few bolts. We to wish we would have know about this as we would have addressed it. Now do we go TKI or Stock Polaris belt drive?

From my research, the tki seems super rad. Biggest thing for me is how cheap and easy to replace the belts are

 

[Ultrasauras]

Yes replace the stock brgs they are cheap junk. I had a TKI on my 2012 and the stock brgs didnt last long.

 

[Ultrasauras]

Installing a TKI today the instructions do not tell you to pop the seal out of the bearings and grease them if you are reusing the old bearings like the old instructions did for my pro rmk. I replaced them with new bearings anyway as the original one felt rough

 

[nkaibrown]

Installing a TKI today the instructions do not tell you to pop the seal out of the bearings and grease them if you are reusing the old bearings like the old instructions did for my pro rmk. I replaced them with new bearings anyway as the original one felt rough

Gotcha. Good to know. My kit is coming in the mail in a couple days along with a new bearing, and I'll slap it in then

 

[Ultrasauras]

Check the bottom shaft spline for damage we had to clean ours up a bit to get it back through the bearing while removing the shaft

 

[mtncat1]

Yes yes and yes. That's what I was leaning towards. I guess I'll just remove the driveshaft then? Is that necessary? Or do I pop them out from behind? Thanks

you can remove the bearing from behind if the track is loosened

 

[nkaibrown]

Check the bottom shaft spline for damage we had to clean ours up a bit to get it back through the bearing while removing the shaft

We got lucky, ours was pretty clean. The old top gear slides on easy

you can remove the bearing from behind if the track is loosened

Got it. I already took the driveshaft out, since I wanted to check all the bearings on the suspension and driveshaft. Very good to know tho

 

[nkaibrown]

Alright y'all one last question. I ordered a bearing with the exact same numbers and it showed up with only one side sealed instead of both like the original. So:

I'm thinking that I'll just pack it with waterproof grease and slide it against the old oil seal for the driveshaft where it enters the chaincase, and it will be just as effective.

Or, I have the old bearing, and I could pull one of the covers out, pack the new bearing, and install the old cover into the new bearing, installing as usual.

What would you guys recommend, also, even more importantly, how should I pack it? Just fill it all the way up with good waterproof grease? Or should I not pack it at all? Thanks

 

[HECKS]

Yup, guy in our group never tensioned the chain since new, and shatter bottom gear on a landing, stripped teeth off of the top gear aswell.