Change your ride. Kits in stock. 34.5"
- Thread starter Barcode
- Start date
R
I've had this kit on a Gen-4 for a little while now, and it is as advertised, Awesome!! There's no question, the Gen-4 is a very capable, nimble sled, but this front end makes it way better! There may be a lot of gimmicks out there, but this is not one of them. I've tried to think of a way to demonstrate the benefits, but its pretty hard to illustrate effort and confidence. Carving in power and crossing old hard tracks on edge is way easier and predictable. I couldn't be happier, probably the best improvement I've made to my sled. The customer service at Barcode is excellent as well!!
Don't let the "nay sayers" throw you off. There are so many sheeple that come to the trough and eat what the OEM's offer and think it can never get better. Guys like you (and I) spend big bucks developing products that make snowmobiling a more enjoyable sport. What they don't see is all the failed R & D prototypes that in themselves take the wind out of our sails. Now, guys that spout off that you are providing a gimmick put more pressure to just give up. Just don't listen. What these guys don't understand is that you probably are driven by passion more than the aim of getting rich from your creations.
G
I must say, I'm intrigued by your product. However, I'm hesitant for a few reasons.
1) The G4 chassis has been around for quite a few years now. If your product is as good as you imply, why hasn't Skidoo attempted to duplicate it?
2) Your product has been for sale for a couple of Seasons now, and there are exactly zero reviews on your website.
3) $800 is tough to swallow if it doesn't perform as advertised.
I'm not bashing your product, I'm truly interested. I just need to be sold on the product beyond a video of someone riding a flat meadow on one ski with 3 inches of fresh snow.
1) The G4 chassis has been around for quite a few years now. If your product is as good as you imply, why hasn't Skidoo attempted to duplicate it?
2) Your product has been for sale for a couple of Seasons now, and there are exactly zero reviews on your website.
3) $800 is tough to swallow if it doesn't perform as advertised.
I'm not bashing your product, I'm truly interested. I just need to be sold on the product beyond a video of someone riding a flat meadow on one ski with 3 inches of fresh snow.
He's driving on set-up snow. Its harder to tip a sled on its edge in set-up snow. The more narrow the front end, meaning, the less distance from the centerline of the sled to the skeg, the less "input weight" is required to tip a sled on its edge. Its a rule of thumb that for every 1 inch less from centerline to the ski center, there is approximately 10 pounds less required on the handlebar pull. It makes the sled act as-if it has more degrees of positive spindle caster and raises the roll center.
When you're in a meadow and crossing an old track, like doing a carve or a crop circle, you'll find instead of more feeling of when hitting the old track, the sled wants to tip back up, away from your body, rather instead, the rear end wants to wash out, but you re-learn to overcome this by turning the handlebars, steering into the snow, into the direction you're going; this controls the washout - now you can steer the sled over old hard tracks as the sled is rite leaned over.
shortline) However, myself and my 120 lb son can do that on my stock sled all day long.
joe) You make the sled one inch wider on center (that means go from 36 to 38") and you might do that all day long, but tomorrow you'll be calling in sick because your shoulder muscles are sore a/f. Go from 38 to 40 and even worse, well, you wont make it "all day long" you'll throw in the towel and say "fukkit, lets ride".
Ok, go back the other way from standard 36 to 34 or 33.8-ish and you'll have to somewhat re-learn, re-shape your riding skill because you'll think the sled is more tippy, no, its how you control the sled, so now you'll have to control the sled with new body english, and Mister, your skills will get higher. Ive been running on my own 33.8 front end and now for going on 3 seasons and i can't believe at some of the hard, sharp hairpin turns i can make in fresh snow and riding on set-up snow is much easier to tip the sled on its edge.
Just like "Teth-Air" says, Dont give up Barcode. In fact, you use nay-sayers to give you the motivation to press on. The more knowledge you have about it, the more you'll have peace. ive made my living going against the bashers, (mostly my competitors big mouths) if they say go left, YOU go right. if they say go down, YOU go up. if they say gear up, YOU gear down. and you'll learn more about "how and why" things work and learn their advantages of it. Anyone who listens to "Them", well, that's as far as the listener will get. Never stop working at it.
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Hi Joe, Thank for the kind words and encouragement. Its very much appreciated. By the way we have one of our kits on our shop Summit. Brilliant!
We have sold quite a few kits and every single rider has been very happy. If your looking to make your Summit/Freeride easier to ride and be less tired at the end of the day. This is the kit for you!
Cheers
Allan
We have sold quite a few kits and every single rider has been very happy. If your looking to make your Summit/Freeride easier to ride and be less tired at the end of the day. This is the kit for you!
Cheers
Allan
Why does 34 front end take the twitch out of the bars? Doesn't the twitch have more to doo with the angled steerer post?
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Got it. Thanks.
Less twitch comes from a combination of positive camber with inclined steering axis. When you have spindle angles where the top tilts out away from the chassis a degree, there is less rider handlebar input under low speed turning conditions. What events that cause someone to say "twitchy" a portion of those input forces (ground is not movable) is transferred into suspension movement.
You lean the sled and drive over something that causes feedback into the handlebars. The feedback forces are distributed into the action of the suspension and the rider input of holding the handlebars. When you feel less "twitch" (i dont like that word but i'll use it since its a local word to describe something people have issue with) less twitch then, the resisting forces were distributed more into the action of the suspension than into handlebar feedback.
In other words, the sum of the forces are the same when you drive and hit something to cause the handlebars to twitch, and the forces are distributed between the active parts. Suspension action itself takes up more of the distribution of force and less goes into handlebar feedback.
You lean the sled and drive over something that causes feedback into the handlebars. The feedback forces are distributed into the action of the suspension and the rider input of holding the handlebars. When you feel less "twitch" (i dont like that word but i'll use it since its a local word to describe something people have issue with) less twitch then, the resisting forces were distributed more into the action of the suspension than into handlebar feedback.
In other words, the sum of the forces are the same when you drive and hit something to cause the handlebars to twitch, and the forces are distributed between the active parts. Suspension action itself takes up more of the distribution of force and less goes into handlebar feedback.
What is the cost today in North America? Somewhere between 789 and $839?
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