Carbides or Wear Bars?

[mtnpull]

Whats your personal preference?

I only ride trail to get to the off trail goods, so I really don't care about the on trail advantages to carbides. I prefer just a wear bar. That way if while I am off trail riding and the bottom of my ski hits a rock or stump / log, it is more likely to skim off from them with out damage. Where I think a carbide is more likely to "grab" or "bite" into the rock or stump and potentially cause more damage.

What's your opinions?

 

[PowderStew]

I agree, also carbides chew up your deck, shop floor and anything else you ride over.

 

[Bowtie496]

I've run just the steel runners on powder pros the last few seasons in a variety of snow conditions. I can't recall anytime wishing I had carbides.

 

[Blown Motor]

Just depends on where you are riding is all. Carbdes will help in any condition the snow is hard and your sled is wanting to push, but yes they also leave an edge to catch rocks/stumps/trees etc. Wear bars seem to be the big choice out west here, if nothing else just a small 3" section of carbide.

 

[skibreeze]

I have 3 days on wear bars only, but with the early season conditions, they seem to glide over stuff easier.

 

[Greg B.]

IMO carbides are a waste of money if you are a dedicated back country guy. You can buy 4 sets of wear rods for the price of a decent set of carbides. Carbides will only help you steer on hard pack trails and ice.

 

[line8]

What is on there from the factory?

 

[mtnpull]

What is on there from the factory?

carbides.

 

[wjl]

Where are the pro guys buying the wear bars (no carbides) for the gripper skis 2011 to present?

 

[skibreeze]

Woody's, they also make the stock bars.

 

[line8]

On my M8, I sometimes have some work to do on the trail if it's icy or spring conditions. Same off trail, especially if it's sloped slightly. I've learned to carry more speed than necessary or ride it like I'm on a big sidehill. Carbides are clearly worn out. I'm in the same boat as the OP, trying figure out which is going to be better.

 

[Yamadoo04]

Don't go buy new bars. Just wear out the carbides on your sled by driving down the road a few times. I did this on my first ride this year with the PRO and carbides are now just wear bars. It is surprising how fast you can wear them down smooth. NO JOKE!!!

 

[wjl]

Woody's part # please, according to the dealer and web site they no longer make them.
Ya I welded mine the entire length right over what was left of my carbides.
Just would like an extra set before the price increases.

 

[skibreeze]

Western Power Sports #16-72224

 

[mtnpull]

On my M8, I sometimes have some work to do on the trail if it's icy or spring conditions. Same off trail, especially if it's sloped slightly. I've learned to carry more speed than necessary or ride it like I'm on a big sidehill. Carbides are clearly worn out. I'm in the same boat as the OP, trying figure out which is going to be better.

I am not trying to figure out which one I like better. I go with wear bars for the reason stated. Just thought I'd post up and see what others opinions are. I already know which way to go for my riding.

Woody's part # please, according to the dealer and web site they no longer make them.
Ya I welded mine the entire length right over what was left of my carbides.
Just would like an extra set before the price increases.

They are currently out of stock through wps. I can order you some if you like. They are showing that they will be back in stock in the next couple weeks.

 

[Jay]

I run the biggest carbides I can find, I prefer the 8" 60 degree. When you hit that ice patch at the top of a chute or that nasty sidehill where fnging up simply IS NOT an option, you DO NOT want the front end washing out on you. Trust me, it can ruin your whole day. In the snow your running on the ski, you don't even know they are there and I have ski glides in the truck and trailor, dollies for the shop, no trouble at all.

 

[line8]

^^^this is a problem I had last spring a couple times. 1 was cresting a steep hill and then down the other sider to an equally steep off camber that was heated by morning sun. I didn't have enough time to get it on the side before the front end washed facing down toward a huge downed log that was exposed top and 2' underneath. I was able to muscle it and turn out the opposite direction with about a foot to spare. Another was a corner on the trail in the spring that froze over night. Very surprising as we were not wasting time to get where we were going. That's just a small % of total riding but both could have ruined a few days and $. This is why I've been leaning toward carbides.

 

[Nemesis88]

I actually stopped running carbides years ago after my first trip out with my last sled. I was running wide open with a bunch of buddies across an open area. There was maybe one inch of powder sitting on a solid base of ice. One moment everything is fine, next moment I am sitting on the ground over 100 feet ahead of my sled. After finally getting my bearings I walk back to the sled to find the right ski folded back under the sled. Looking at it, there is a half inch tall rock sticking out of the ice with a perfect squared off lip that my carbide hooked. Stopped the sled dead in its tracks.

Pulled my carbide off and never went back. The best part is I thought I was the only one doing this. Glad to see that I am not

 

[wjl]

For the Rmk pro the woody's part # is HSP - 1125. Hard weld top stock.
Usually under $28.00.
Next step is 4 inches of carbide.
Back in trail riding days 96 studs and 6 or 8 of carbides on the skis. This was also back when skis were steel and track height was a whopping 3/4".