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Camso long travel shock mod

T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
The machinist/ millwright/welder in me couldn't live with the fixed strut in my Camso kit. So this fall's project was finding a full featured shock to replace the solid strut.
Shock had to have adjustable comp, rebound, preload and aftermarket springs w a choice of rates.
Short version of story is that GSXR 1000 shocks fit the bill and are cheap used.
My bike is a PDS KTM 450 so it also needed to be oofset about 1.5" from the Camso centerline.
We just got snow before Xmas and I have 4 more days of work before I get to try it out!!!
hoping for WHEEEEEE
 
T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
Oops.. Clicked post bef adding pics.
In close up view of shock the spring was left out to test range of travel ( 15" at tail of skid)
You can see the lower mount is a 2"alum Puck in place of the solid strut. The suzook shock saddle was welded offset and rearward to line up to ktm upper shock mount
 
T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
Hey, In that close up did you notice you have a crack on your camso sideplate?
Yes both sideplates have small cracks - I have a new pair Camso warrantied that aren't installed yet. I rode all last yr w the cracks. Happened after 2nd ride and never got worse. It seems to be a mis-match in flex patterns so I have left orig sideplates on until it gets worse.
 
M

milo303

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2011
824
199
43
Littleton
I just rode my Camso for the first time last weekend, and found the suspension to be extremely bound up feeling. I'd love to figure out a way to do what you did, perhaps a summer project. Essentially turning a Camso into a Yeti.
 
T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
I just rode my Camso for the first time last weekend, and found the suspension to be extremely bound up feeling. I'd love to figure out a way to do what you did, perhaps a summer project. Essentially turning a Camso into a Yeti.
I would say that adding a real shock from a sport bike is better than yeti or tss air shock. Neither have adjustable rebound or compression.. Nevermind high AND low speed adj.
It was simple.. Narrow down the width of shock eye to fit upper frame bracket on your dirt bike (street bikes are heavier so wider shock end)
For the bottom I cut off a 1 inch slice of alum round bar. Then welded the orig street bracket onto alum Puck.
Drill thru hole to secure Puck n bracket into strut socket on camso frame.
Done.
You may need a travel limit strap depending on your bike and which street shock you get
 
T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
I would say that adding a real shock from a sport bike is better than yeti or tss air shock. Neither have adjustable rebound or compression.. Nevermind high AND low speed adj.
It was simple.. Narrow down the width of shock eye to fit upper frame bracket on your dirt bike (street bikes are heavier so wider shock end)
For the bottom I cut off a 1 inch slice of alum round bar. Then welded the orig street bracket onto alum Puck.
Drill thru hole to secure Puck n bracket into strut socket on camso frame.
Done.
You may need a travel limit strap depending on your bike and which street shock you get
I found pic that shows my set up.
No spring so I could check max 'up' travel
My bike is a pds ktm so upper frame shock bracket is not on center.. So you see lower Puck also need to be offset. Line your parts up however it suits.
I used alum bec that's the u shaped bracket that came w street shock (gsxr 1000) IMG_20200309_115949_01.jpg
 
M

milo303

Well-known member
Sep 16, 2011
824
199
43
Littleton
I like it, thanks

Have you thought about gusseting the offset section of that puck? I'm no engineer but it looks like it there was going to be a weak spot, it would be that puck and bracket coming apart
 
T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
I like it, thanks

Have you thought about gusseting the offset section of that puck? I'm no engineer but it looks like it there was going to be a weak spot, it would be that puck and bracket coming apart
You can't really see the far side of the bracket.. There is lots of bead on the weld. Plus the center of the bracket was drilled out and 'plug' welded.
Its not going anywhere
 
T
Dec 3, 2019
22
15
3
How do you keep the chain tension proper as it moves through its travel?
Just like a regular chain and conventional swingarm.. The tension varies a bit thru the entire arc of travel but less than a full length swingarm because the driven sprocket is closer. Also the total travel is less than oem bike. I use a limit strap on the down travel. ( you don't want too much ski pressure anyway)
And 'rolling' the mounting holes downwards on the attachment point on the timbersled frame reduces the up travel.
Hard to put into words.. See picIMG_20200102_124607.jpg
I chose the location of the 2 blue tabs that I welded onto cross bar of TS frame.

Anyway.. The total swing of arc is less than original swingarm of mc.. So less effect on chain tension.
No problems at all this whole season
 
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