Something else to check is the water pump impeller. I have seen the D shaped drive hole round out this allows the impeller shaft to spin inside impeller reducing coolant flow.
BYPASS THERMOSTAT UPGRADE (PREVIOUSLY $28 upgrade)
- Thread starter TRS
- Start date
J
Hey TRS,
No problem on our conversation with the routing. Just haven't had a chance to do it yet.....still searching out the proper hoses and such before I dive into it. The bypass hose reroute is going to be challenging because of how the current bypass hose is routed to the head from the front nose rad.
I'm hoping the thermo bypass kit will bring the temps back down to 120* range....
No problem on our conversation with the routing. Just haven't had a chance to do it yet.....still searching out the proper hoses and such before I dive into it. The bypass hose reroute is going to be challenging because of how the current bypass hose is routed to the head from the front nose rad.
I'm hoping the thermo bypass kit will bring the temps back down to 120* range....
Has anyone tried the Kit from Most wanted performance in Jackson Hole Wyoming?
Listing say 2007 to 2104- but wanted to being this to the top
http://www.mostwantedperformance.com/
I am open
S/C
Listing say 2007 to 2104- but wanted to being this to the top
http://www.mostwantedperformance.com/
I am open
S/C
Terra alps kit is cheaper and not plastic like either of the above kits.
http://www.terraalpsracing.com/product/thermostat-kits
http://www.terraalpsracing.com/product/thermostat-kits
With the additional loops in the Rush cooling system, there are many ways to plumb these up. If it were me I'd make the following changes.
I believe the outlet of the front rad goes to the aux input fitting on the water pump. Correct me if I'm wrong. I do not see the advantage to feeding cooled coolant to the head alone. Especially when it will only travel about 1" and exit thru the now washered stock thermostat neck.
I would instead plug the stock bypass out of the head, leaving the aux water pump inlet. And leave to output from the front rad feeding the aux water pump inlet.
T
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If you are looking for more cooling capacity on the trail you would need to connect all the coolers in a series. You will need to plug the bypass in the head and also the water pump. And install the BRP as we do with the PRO. The last schematic only allows coolant to pass through the radiator when the BRP thermo is closed as with the stock setup.
Edit: you also missed the bulkhead cooler in your schematic.
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TRS, I find one thing wrong with your interpretation of the 800 Bypass circuit. While on the 600 it is controlled by the stock thermostat as it goes out the bottom and is closed off by the extra disk on the stock bypass thermostat. On the 800 it is always open as it comes out the side of the head where in the PRO's it is plugged (symmetrical location to the temp sensor).
I concur that for the ultimate cooling capacity; a series install would be the most beneficial (unless the smallish 5/8" hoses restrict the flow to a point that it is right back to where it was with the stock thermostat). If the restriction of the front loop were to be an issue, another option would be to leave the front loop as is with it free to flow regardless of thermostat position and plumb the BRP in with the "T" to the main water pump inlet hose like the PRO RMK's.
If one only needs the lower temp thermostat, the way I described in my previous post #210 is adequate, and far easier, IMO.
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I understand booth of the 600 systems Polaris offers. One system utilizes the thermostat disk you reference(7052376)the other utilizes one without(7052433), but this is a 2011 800(7052433) he is quizzing about. I don't see a significant detriment with the 5/8 hose bibs. It may slow the fluid down to benefit cooling. If all coolers were hooked into a series it would be an ideal system, utilizing the full potential of the radiator when snow conditions are low. Fluid always takes the path of least resistance, IMO the stock system leaves a lot on the table. The BRP will definitely flow more than the PI stock thermo at full open. The bypass or warmup system doesn't need a radiator, it should be designed to get the engine to operating temp in a timely manner. And I agree your design would be far easier and may be adequate. A simpler system, and may have enough cooling capacity, would be to eliminate the front radiator all together and plumb the system as our PRO's leaving the bulkhead cooler plumbed as is.
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Interesting, i bought my kit used so no first hand experience either. I did have a few email conversations with Ted? without issues last year.
Do you plumb in the Doo t stat the same for a non Pro? Example. 13 800 Rmk with front cooler.
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All depends on what you want to a accomplish. The front cooler can be plumbed to aid the tunnel coolers or it can be plumbed for warmup.
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