bushings in primary clutch

[wheelierida]

Can I measure the bushings in the primary with a caliper? or is it nessecary to use a bore gauge to get correct #'s? The manual says to replace the sliding sheave if the bushing is bad...is that neccesary?

On the governor cup there is 2 tamper proof torque screws. It looks like there should be three but the spot where the other would go doesn't have any threads in it. My cousins only has one and the two other holes arn't threaded either. Are they for balancing or what??

On another note.... don't use cotter pins from the hardware store!! they seized in my weights. I had to cut the arms to salvage my rollers. I'm pretty sure I wont be able to save my weights either.

Thanks again guys!

 

[winter brew]

Yes, you can use a caliper....if they are close to the limit or they just seem too sloppy, replace them. You can change just the movable bushing as long as the circlip groove isn't broken out or peened over. It's fun getting that circlip out, just break out the old bushing to make it easier. On the other bushing replace the spring cap assembly.

Those little screws are for balance....some have them, some don't.

 

[badass1000]

on the cotter pins...
Are you sure you don't have a weight screwd into your pin and it is holding the cotter pin in. When you screw a weight into the weight pin it goes all the way in until it hits the cotter pin. with the weight tightened in the pin you can not pull the cotter pin out.

 

[wheelierida]

on the cotter pins...
Are you sure you don't have a weight screwd into your pin and it is holding the cotter pin in. When you screw a weight into the weight pin it goes all the way in until it hits the cotter pin. with the weight tightened in the pin you can not pull the cotter pin out.

I'm a dumba$$. That was expensive!

 

[badass1000]

No problem.. Over the years and working on enough different things I have done stupid little things like that.

I had a few kawasaki zx9r street bikes. a 99 and a 00. in 01 when the gsxr 1000 first came out I got one and completly striped it to nothing. powdercoat frame, swingarm, wheels, custom paint job, head work and cams, yosh ecu, revalved front forks, rear shock, etc... complete dissasembly and re asemble a new bike. Got it all put back together and it would not start. Thought something was put back together wrong, not pluged in, etc... Looked over every thing and couldn't find any thing. then got out a wireing schematic and my meter. traced it back to the clutch lever switch.... spent over 4 hours.
On my zx9s if the bike was in neutral you didn't have to have the clutch lever pulled in for it to start. you had to have the clutch lever pulled in on the gsxr 1000 for it to start.

 

[sledmaniak]

moving sheave bushing

Yes, you can use a caliper....if they are close to the limit or they just seem too sloppy, replace them. You can change just the movable bushing as long as the circlip groove isn't broken out or peened over. It's fun getting that circlip out, just break out the old bushing to make it easier. On the other bushing replace the spring cap assembly.

Those little screws are for balance....some have them, some don't.

Circlip came out easy enough. Old bushing came out easy enough. What is the trick to getting the new bushing back in? I already broke the new one tring to get it to go.

 

[winter brew]

Circlip came out easy enough. Old bushing came out easy enough. What is the trick to getting the new bushing back in? I already broke the new one tring to get it to go.

I made a aluminum driver that fits inside the bushings to drive it in without distorting.

 

[diamonddave]

I made a aluminum driver that fits inside the bushings to drive it in without distorting.

I figured every TRA-7 owner would have a bushing driver set and arbor press by now. Makes changing those a snap. Watched another one of those clutches bite the dust last weekend. Can't believe it didn't fly off the crank before we made it back to the truck.

If you're in a bind, go to your local transmission shop, they should be able to help you out.

 

[winter brew]

I figured every TRA-7 owner would have a bushing driver set and arbor press by now. Makes changing those a snap. Watched another one of those clutches bite the dust last weekend. Can't believe it didn't fly off the crank before we made it back to the truck.

If you're in a bind, go to your local transmission shop, they should be able to help you out.

Lol....no kidding, they have had their issues the last few years. They seem to be making progress though, I have been measuring everything in my '11 tra every 100 miles and after 800 miles everything measures same as new with less than .001" wear on spring cap bushings.
Can't say if that's due to materials, tolerances, less crank runout, different harmonics in the etec? Good news though.

 

[gus bohne]

Out here Paul the bushings are good for maybe 400 miles ..
those who clutch to a lower cruise rpm have less heat induced issues.

then there's the guy who towed his buddy home,, after a tow trip,, rebush and replace rollers before the next ride or YOU are on the end of the rope....

that plastic like moveable bushing scares me.. I chamfer the housing a whisker before install too..same for spring cup..


Gus

 

[sledmaniak]

bushing

Thanks for the replies guys. I will make a driver for that bushing. Also was wondering if freezing the bushing on dry ice would help?

 

[sledmaniak]

bushing

All went well with a bushing driver and a arbor press. The Dry Ice thing was a waste of time.

 

[9 Iron]

what is that black plastic bushing for in the spring cup??? Just a govinor so you cant over shift the belt?? i pulled mine out.

 

[sledmaniak]

black plastic spacer

Yep it is just so that the two halves dont slam into each other. You should put that back in. I have read on here that it can do quite a bit of damage without it.

 

[winter brew]

what is that black plastic bushing for in the spring cup??? Just a govinor so you cant over shift the belt?? i pulled mine out.

I leave it in or replace it if it gets mushroomed. It helps to keep the sheaves from hitting at full shift which will eventually destroy the thin area that retains the movable sheave bushing.