• I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

Breaking engine mounts

retiredpop

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 3, 2001
1,202
258
83
Calgary
Better go with the .100" then. There seems to be a lot of confusion about this and the spec changes depending on the year.
 
Feb 9, 2015
12
1
3
It has about 5000 miles/8000km on it.
When i bought it the left front mount was broken so it was replaced.
The guy i bought it from said crank bearings and pistons had been replaced just before i got it.
regarding the crank pin and crank run out?? what is that:)

I have changed the mount 4 times now in about 1000/1500 km.
Could bad rear mounts cause the front one to tear apart?
There has been alot of oil and gas on these ruber mounts so they feels soft.
 

sled_guy

Well-known member
Premium Member
Jul 5, 2001
3,561
839
113
Riverton, Utah
Yes, if one mount is broke then the others can fail.

But to tear that front one apart every 250km is pretty severe.

Crank run out is measuring the crank end to make sure it is spinning true, not wobbling. The 800s have a reputation of breaking the PTO crank pin which holds the PTO crank lobe to the center lobe and the PTO rod is mounted to. When they are starting to fail you will start to see crank runout numbers go up.

Heck, just for grins, take the belt off, open the clutch guard up and start the engine, letting it idle. Look at the clutch and see if it looks like it's wobbling. As I said, if the other motor mounts are ok then it has to be some wicked wobble in the crank or the clutch is way out of balance.

sled_guy
 
Nov 26, 2007
584
150
43
Minnesota
i went through 3 PTO fronts on my 00' 700 until i discovered when I set the motor in the left front was not touching the mount so when i tightened the motor mount bolts it pre-tensioned the mount.

i put a thick washer under the PTO front mount to raise it and that solved my problem. I never broke another mount in the 6000 miles i put on it after this fix.

i suspect either the motor plate or the bulkhead is slightly bent or not quite matchy, matchy with each other from the factory.

Some never tear mounts some do.
 

go high fast

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Lifetime Membership
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May 7, 2008
1,430
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83
Missoula MT
Shouldn't happen. Remember Henry Lee at the OJ trial....."something wrong". I recommend closely inspecting the torque stop as sometimes the rubber degrades to the point where you are not getting any benefit whatsoever from the torque stop. I would also recommend using the SLP torque arm to further secure the motor from twisting under load. A motor plate can also be helpful as it is better than the stock Polaris motor straps. And while you're at it I would just simply replace all four motor mounts and call it good to make sure all four are of the same stiffness to avoid using some soft and some stiff. I would also inspect the female threads for the front PTO motor mount to make sure it is actually mounting properly and securely into the chassis. Put it on a stand and rev it a bit to confirm both primary and secondary work in unison because if the secondary isn't opening up all the way it will put major stress on the twisting of the engine under load. Regardless of the Polaris specs and I tighten the torque stop up against the crankcase as tight as I can get it finger tight and call it good. Final chore is to check alignment and parallel measures and then let it rip.

If you have an iPhone please post a 10 second slow Mo video with sound of the clutch at idle to see if it isolates crank wobble....i wouldn't have thought of this one.
 
Last edited:
Feb 9, 2015
12
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Back with a update on this engine:)
Checked the crank and we found out it had .0044 runout on the pto side.
Added a slp single & holzman atacc at the end of last season and it was strong as hell this old sled:)
Had the engine out and everything looked ok. Changed all off the mounts now so will se how it does.
 
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