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Bought a 1999 RMK 600 and I need some help.

G
Jan 10, 2020
29
4
3
I purchased a 1999 RMK 600 136" L/C with 864 miles, from the original owner. I took it for a test ride and it ran perfect. The exterior of the sled is like new, no scratches or paint chips, the windshield is the same. I inspected the engine compartment, it was rather dirty, oily, nothing like the exterior. The owner showed and explained the engine to me, as I have not had a sled for over 30 years. The chaincase oil needs to be changed as it really dirty, but the manual does not explain the procedure, so could someone explain that to me? Also what product is best to use to clean all of the oil and crap out of the engine compartment? Also is there anything that I should be aware of or things that I should do before putting any miles on it? Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge!
 
J
Jan 20, 2009
351
83
28
Northern Utah
I haven't had an rmk that old but some had a drain plug on the bottom of the chaincase, otherwise you just have to remove the entire cover and let it ooze all over. I just use ATF in mine or you can purchase the expensive Polaris stuff. There might be an adjuster in there as well that needs adjustment, just take the slack out but not too tight. Some have a sight glass for level, or a filler plug level on the side. Otherwise fill it through the vent in the top. Only the bottom sprocket needs to be immersed, doesn't take much.
For degreaser I use purple Walmart style. Don't pressure wash the interior as you could compromise seals and such but it's ok to use a hose and rag. Be sure not to saturate the intake and probably stay away from any obvious electrical, make sure the clutches are dry before you ride it. Have fun.
 
G
Jan 10, 2020
29
4
3
Thank you so much for all of the very good information. It looks like I am gonna hafta do the ooze thing, just 4 bolts, no plug. I just picked up some Lucas synthetic, should do fine. Looked at the adjuster in the manual, looks easy enough. Fillin it is thru the dipstick hole, manual says 9 ozs. I think I will go with an old favorite, a rag and some varsol for the engine bay. I can do this now knowing exactly what to do! Thank you for your time, and good information..
 
G
Jan 10, 2020
29
4
3
I did the job without finding the drain plug, but I am glad I took the cover off. There was a coating all over the inside that I easily cleaned up. Adjusted the chain properly according to the manual, added the oil, and I am ready to hit the trails once again. I will locate the drain plug for my next oil change. Thanks again
 
G
Jan 10, 2020
29
4
3
I don't think that there is a drain plug because I couldn't get a finger under it, barely slide a rag under it to catch the oil. Is it like, put it on a lift of some kind to access it? Could still be there, i would need a special tool just to find it, lol, but that's me.

ANYONE KNOW WHY I CAN'T POST A PICTURE???
 

BeartoothBaron

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 2, 2017
1,243
1,320
113
Roberts, MT
If it's got a drain plug, there'll also be a hole in the belly pan to access it. Just feel around for it under where the bottom of the chaincase is, shouldn't be too hard to find if it's there. The old Indys didn't have it, you jut took the cover off, but not sure when it came in. It's nice because it minimizes the oil mess, but otherwise not a big deal. While you're in there, look for any signs of trouble with the chains or sprockets, and some guys check the alignment of the sprockets with a straightedge. Not a high failure item though, so don't overthink it. I use Polaris synthetic chaincase lube. Not sure if there's anything better out there, and while I hear ATF or lightweight motor oil works fine, the Polaris stuff only costs a couple bucks more per year (I change at the beginning of every season).
 

retiredpop

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 3, 2001
1,350
295
83
Calgary
It's #19 on parts diagram. As Beartooth says you access it through a hole on belly pan. It has a hex key head on it for removal. I had two of these exact sleds and they ran flawlessly for my entire ownership. I did the top end at 7500 miles and they had over 12,500 miles when I sold them. If it has been stored properly over it's lifespan so far you should have no problems from here on out.
 

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