Bleeding air from cooling system
- Thread starter Hardass
- Start date
A
arcticattach
Member
i don't know if it's the same but on my m7 i left the overflow lid off start the the sled warm it up when its warmed up lift the back of the sled up and down slowly this should burp the system.
Even after lifting the front I would still warm it up on a stand, no more than 5800rpm then let it cool a couple times.
Changing pistons is not to bad in the sled, you can get quite abit of crap out of the way. Like wyo said run on a stand or just let run on ground a few different times make sure rear cooler is getting warm and keep an eye on coolant bottle as it will empty a couple of times. When filling coolant initially just have front elevated so coolant bottle is highest point.
Main thing, don't go full throttle out of the box. run easy for the first mile, check coolant, easy for the next few miles and check again until you are sure its burped and not dropping the coolant level. But no WOT pulls for at least 5 miles. IMO
Yes you can do pistons in frame. But hard to get torqued perfect unless you have fancy tools
Yes you can do pistons in frame. But hard to get torqued perfect unless you have fancy tools
I've found that craftsman wobble ext work pretty good for getting into the back and torquing the backs of the cylinders, can be tricky. A little trick I've found is when putting nuts back on the cylinders is to put the nut in the socket and then put two small pieces of electrical tape from the socket to the nut to hold in place. Takes away having to have little magic fingers.
S
sledbasher M7
Member
air
i had a heck of a time with my M7 Big Bore.Instead of lifting the front get it warm and lift the sled so the coolant resivore is the highest point.It girggled and the coolant dropped and it was perfect after that.
i had a heck of a time with my M7 Big Bore.Instead of lifting the front get it warm and lift the sled so the coolant resivore is the highest point.It girggled and the coolant dropped and it was perfect after that.
I use a small piece of blue paper towel or masking tape.
BTW, if the system is dry, it only holds so much and you can measure it to make sure you get the right amount in.
I've found it easiest to leave the sled on the dollies I use to move it around the shop, fire it up and let it idle. Fill the coolant bottle as needed. Then once the cooler is warm, take the rear rollers out from under the track and fill the bottle. I've done it this way a number of times without any issues.
Ok..this is how I bleed a sleds cooling system..works better then any other way I have seen.............fill system, and cap, start sled, pull sled up on its side(you want the side the upper rad hose goes to down for this....) as you hold it over on its side bring the rpm up until the track tries to turn, let sled back down on skies, then pull up on other side and repeat..then set down flat and check coolant level..repeat above 1-3 more times until coolant level doesnt change and it has all air out of system..
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