Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Bleeding air from cooling system

Hardass

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
What is the best method to bleed air out of the cooling system and get all the air out of the head on a m/1000
 
i don't know if it's the same but on my m7 i left the overflow lid off start the the sled warm it up when its warmed up lift the back of the sled up and down slowly this should burp the system.
 
I believe you want to raise the front of the sled so you do not trap any air in the cooler. Get the coolant reservoir higher than the rear cooler.
 
Even after lifting the front I would still warm it up on a stand, no more than 5800rpm then let it cool a couple times.
 
And this will get all the air out of the head? i had a polaris before and it was much more involved than that. Hey wyo or any one is it very difficult to change pistons while the motor is still in the sled?
 
Changing pistons is not to bad in the sled, you can get quite abit of crap out of the way. Like wyo said run on a stand or just let run on ground a few different times make sure rear cooler is getting warm and keep an eye on coolant bottle as it will empty a couple of times. When filling coolant initially just have front elevated so coolant bottle is highest point.
 
Main thing, don't go full throttle out of the box. run easy for the first mile, check coolant, easy for the next few miles and check again until you are sure its burped and not dropping the coolant level. But no WOT pulls for at least 5 miles. IMO

Yes you can do pistons in frame. But hard to get torqued perfect unless you have fancy tools
 
I've found that craftsman wobble ext work pretty good for getting into the back and torquing the backs of the cylinders, can be tricky. A little trick I've found is when putting nuts back on the cylinders is to put the nut in the socket and then put two small pieces of electrical tape from the socket to the nut to hold in place. Takes away having to have little magic fingers.
 
air

i had a heck of a time with my M7 Big Bore.Instead of lifting the front get it warm and lift the sled so the coolant resivore is the highest point.It girggled and the coolant dropped and it was perfect after that.
 
I've found that craftsman wobble ext work pretty good for getting into the back and torquing the backs of the cylinders, can be tricky. A little trick I've found is when putting nuts back on the cylinders is to put the nut in the socket and then put two small pieces of electrical tape from the socket to the nut to hold in place. Takes away having to have little magic fingers.

I use a small piece of blue paper towel or masking tape.

BTW, if the system is dry, it only holds so much and you can measure it to make sure you get the right amount in.
 
I've found it easiest to leave the sled on the dollies I use to move it around the shop, fire it up and let it idle. Fill the coolant bottle as needed. Then once the cooler is warm, take the rear rollers out from under the track and fill the bottle. I've done it this way a number of times without any issues.
 
Polaris' and ski-doo's there are screws in the head for bleeding the coolant system, cats just sort of do it on their own conveniently.
 
Ok..this is how I bleed a sleds cooling system..works better then any other way I have seen.............fill system, and cap, start sled, pull sled up on its side(you want the side the upper rad hose goes to down for this....) as you hold it over on its side bring the rpm up until the track tries to turn, let sled back down on skies, then pull up on other side and repeat..then set down flat and check coolant level..repeat above 1-3 more times until coolant level doesnt change and it has all air out of system..
 
A tilt trailer works good for getting the front of the sled higher than the rear.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top