Anyone running black/purple secondary spring down low?
- Thread starter TheBreeze
- Start date
Black/Purple??
Who makes your spring?
Are you talking about the Team
Part # 210135-007 130-290 Purple ??
.
Who makes your spring?
Are you talking about the Team
Part # 210135-007 130-290 Purple ??
.
The new 2015's come clutched for 6000-8000 which is a black spring. for elevation in 8-10k, it needs a blk/pur driven clutch spring. part number 7043363.
I also would like to know if I rode with the blk/pur and then put 10/68 weights in, how it would act in low elevation. That way when I go out west, I only need to change the weights to 10/60's and not the springs everytime.
D
Danbot
Well-known member
Tried it last season, I found that even up at 7000'+ the engine would flash right through the midrange to 8100, not using the whole power curve. (On a stock engine)
Possibly at higher elevations (9000+?) it might be more effective, but in the range I tried this spring on (3000 to 8000') it was a decrease in performance.
Possibly at higher elevations (9000+?) it might be more effective, but in the range I tried this spring on (3000 to 8000') it was a decrease in performance.
If you don't want to change the secondary spring, you're better off sticking with the black, than riding black/purple down low. Until you're above 7 or 8k, you won't see much/any difference with stock hp with the black spring, and it's more snow conditions dependent, didn't see backshift differences in soft pow. JMPE when I've had stock helix. Black is 155-222, black-purple is 160-240.
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S
i had rpm issues at 9000 ft with a black in the secondary. Couldnt rev over 7900..... Polaris dealer at cooke had a ton of black purples i should have bought one and got them to change it or seen if i could have borrowed his press.
S
yup book stats 8000 ft+ for the black purple. so with your findings thats probably dead on.
D
dan8485
Active member
I always leave my secondary set up for high even at home, 800ft or so. The way I look at it, the sled has twice as much performance as I would get up high so I don't need to use it all. I just adjust with primary weights and spring then call it good, as long as its not over revving I am good with it.
The stock springs are all black now it seems... with part numbers on them.
Although you are adding about 5lbs to the start (a little less than shimming the roller carrier by .070")... you are trying to adjust by using weights in the primary only?? I believe that this will overwhelm the stock 140/330 Primary spring with your intended 10-68 weights, which will throw the clutch "system" out of balance.
Good for the short haul, maybe... but there are better approaches IMO.
If you are going to all of the effort to get your sled out west from Sussex...IMO...the cost of having a well laid out clutching setup with primary weights/springs, helix and springs is small compared to the fun factor of having an ideal setup. A spring compressor is not very expensive and if you go with other buddies... have them chip in for it. IMO..one high altitude setup... one low... and one hour or less to change them back/forth.
Having an ideal clutch setup is the best bang for the buck, seat-of-the-pants noticeable improvement you can make.
Secondary Clutch springs for Stock PRO RMK TEAM TSS-04 clutch
Stock, PN 7043063, 155/222 (this used to be Polaris Black/Red now just black with numbers.)
SLP Black/Purple, PN 50-55 160/240
Team Black/Purple PN 210193 160/240
.
Although you are adding about 5lbs to the start (a little less than shimming the roller carrier by .070")... you are trying to adjust by using weights in the primary only?? I believe that this will overwhelm the stock 140/330 Primary spring with your intended 10-68 weights, which will throw the clutch "system" out of balance.
Good for the short haul, maybe... but there are better approaches IMO.
If you are going to all of the effort to get your sled out west from Sussex...IMO...the cost of having a well laid out clutching setup with primary weights/springs, helix and springs is small compared to the fun factor of having an ideal setup. A spring compressor is not very expensive and if you go with other buddies... have them chip in for it. IMO..one high altitude setup... one low... and one hour or less to change them back/forth.
Having an ideal clutch setup is the best bang for the buck, seat-of-the-pants noticeable improvement you can make.
Secondary Clutch springs for Stock PRO RMK TEAM TSS-04 clutch
Stock, PN 7043063, 155/222 (this used to be Polaris Black/Red now just black with numbers.)
SLP Black/Purple, PN 50-55 160/240
Team Black/Purple PN 210193 160/240
.
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If all clutching components remain equal, why does a black/ purple give you more RPM at high elevation vs. the stock black? Because it hinders the secondary from shifting out. Think about this for a moment, you went from a 155-222# spring to a 160-240# spring. It takes more horsepower to overcome a stouter spring or you remain in a lower gear ratio. Do you want track speed? This is not the way to get it. You will never witness the full potential of your clutching, gearing and engine performance using this philosophy. It's a cheap fix, bandaid. The helix angle is wrong for the application.
Mountainhorse is right on (as usual). It takes about the same time to fuel up a sled as it does to change out a secondary spring and/or helix. Not sure why anyone would want to run with sub-optimal clutching. You can make a compressor tool for $10. Just my $.02
T
Thanks for the input guys. I'm not looking to run sub optimal clutching, just wondering if the black purple worked reasonably well at sea level. I'll be picking up a press, and swap secondary springs appropriately. I was referring to the 10-68's for sea level operation (as per polaris specs)
Spring
I run the black/purple in the secondary in MN and out west. Put it in as soon as I took the sled off the trailer when I bought it, 13' 163". I just change weights and springs in the primary. For the little bit of riding in MN I do it works for me with no problems and works out west also.
I run the black/purple in the secondary in MN and out west. Put it in as soon as I took the sled off the trailer when I bought it, 13' 163". I just change weights and springs in the primary. For the little bit of riding in MN I do it works for me with no problems and works out west also.
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I also run my 6-8000' setup when home (2200') except I re -weight the primary heavier. Why? We have so much less snow and more power that I rarely need over half throttle for running around home. The subpar clutching isn't a big deal for me. I also have my proxr short track if I really want to have some fun when home.
I did try and run the 10-62's for a km or two just to load up at home, was terrible! I would never ride with improper primary weighting again. There are a lot of new people in the sport that don't realize that the weights need to be changed at different elevation (I ride with two of such people :$). The dealer here does a terrible job of informing people. The two running 62 weights here said they couldn't tell the difference, sad.
A
AdrenalineAddict
Well-known member
I have swapped the two time and time again at elevation. I've found if I was running hardpack in the steep I could get away with running the black even at elevation, but the minute we would run deep powder the slower backshift would hinder +9,000 performance and I would switch back to the black/purple. My guess is your trail racing acceleration and top end would suffer a bit at low elevation as in your buddies running the softer spring will smoke you.
