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ADDED: 2005 RMK/FUSION 900 IQ BILLET chaincase option!!!

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Getting closer fellas ! Here is a CAD model of the cover. Its nothing fancy but should be way better than what you have now !as you can see it will have a sight glass like the 06 covers and the fill port will be near the location of the dipstick on the plastic covers .I will be making and test fitting the prototype very soon and I will post pics as soon as its done! I would welcome any feedback you may offer! I am thinking at this point that I will have these anondized in black and clear !

scan0001.jpg scan.jpg
 
Kreg,

Fill point...

make sure it is not obstructed by the muffler etc..

Maybe at the top of the cover???
 
MH,
I used thse pics to determine the location for the holes . I think I understand your concern . I wonder if the SLP or stock can ( I hope nobody still has one) would be more of a problem!

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POST SOME PICS W /SLP, HPS,ETC CANS . HELP ME OUT FELLAS I DONT OWN AN 05

100_2021.jpg 100_2020.jpg
 
SLP can

here is my 2005 RMK 900 with an SLP can when i bought the sled.....BEFORE i switched to the CPI can i have now (love it way more!)

slp can.jpg slp can2.jpg
 
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Wow ! looks like the those of you with SLP cans will have to pull the can to fill the chaincase! There is not much of a way arourd it as far as I can see!
 
Wow ! looks like the those of you with SLP cans will have to pull the can to fill the chaincase! There is not much of a way arourd it as far as I can see!

You gotta lay the sled on the left side to fill it anyway?

Will there be a magnet on the fill cap?

What will anodized do? Raw aluminum will dissipate heat better ... and hold reflective tape better ... plus cost 30 or more less ... correct or incorrect?

Let me add how pleased and greatful I am for you doing this awesome tooling !!!!
 
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DB
Thanks for the input ! Dont know about the heat transfer aspect on the anodized layer or not but it would definetly be cheaper. I hadn't considered the magnet either the dipstick has one but the 06 has none so I never gave it another thought. not a bad idea maybe glue one on the cover ! I have another idea for a a large flat gasketed cap over the upper shaft area that would have a big hole to fill through and hopfully make it easier to fill .Do you have any other thoughts or ideas where the best place would be ? I am all ears this is my biggest concern at this point . The prototype does not have a fill hole for this very reason.
 
DB
Thanks for the input ! Dont know about the heat transfer aspect on the anodized layer or not but it would definetly be cheaper. I hadn't considered the magnet either the dipstick has one but the 06 has none so I never gave it another thought. not a bad idea maybe glue one on the cover ! I have another idea for a a large flat gasketed cap over the upper shaft area that would have a big hole to fill through and hopfully make it easier to fill .Do you have any other thoughts or ideas where the best place would be ? I am all ears this is my biggest concern at this point . The prototype does not have a fill hole for this very reason.

I suggest placing a fill hole on upper half of the cover and a sight glass on the bottom.

IMHO would suggest both holes to be standard holes to be replaced with a standard bolt in case they brake or lost.

I would make the sight glass on the bottom only large enough to see the "full" level so in case the sight glass leaked or fell out the cover would retain some lube instead of running out the sight hole.

Also , makt the cast a slight bit thicker on the entire cover or thicker gradually on the upper half starting between two bolts to compensate for expansion/warping UNLEs the cover is already thick enough.

The slight increased cover thickness will help compensate for the weakness when taping for a screw hole to fill it with oil.

You don't have to get fancy about the fill hole, I would put the hole in the upper half with a standard screw, 3/16 or 1/4 inch. Maybe the common bolt used on the 900 sled chain case cover?

I would prefer a much smaller diameter.

For reliability and a place oil would leak least is in the middle of the upper shaft unless the "common chaincase bolt" is too long.
The centrifical force of the shaft will keep oil from coming out the hole if the screw falls out. So second best place would be just above the tension adjustment on the oyher side of the case and beloow the diameter for the top gear. This should be okay for the extra lenght of the chaincase bolt.

For me I don't know anyone who tries to fill a gear with a quart bottle.
You transfer fluid into something or use a funnel.

I use a food syringe with needle. Cost 99 cents and holds 5 ounces with a 2 inch needle included. The needle can bend some so as long as the hole is greater than a 1/16 inch I can get oil in it.

As far as the magnet goes ... the easiest and cheapest would be to tap one more hole at the bottom away from the current/flow of the oil spinning on the chain and screw in a magnetic drain bolt . A magnetic drain bolt with gasket stardard for a motorcycle cost around $7.00 retail or you could get a fancy CNC anodized one for $15.00
 
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I suggest placing a fill hole on upper half of the cover and a sight glass on the bottom.
Fill hole location is all I am worried about right now. The sight
glass is where it the level gauge on the dipstick would be.


IMHO would suggest both holes to be standard holes to be replaced with a standard bolt in case they brake or lost.

Standard ? The sight glass is press fit and the plug is TBD. Where does one find the anoodized ones you mention ?

I would make the sight glass on the bottom only large enough to see the "full" level so in case the sight glass leaked or fell out the cover would retain some lube instead of running out the sight hole.

it may not be perfect where it is but better than the plastic junk that warped and dumped all the oil.


Also , makt the cast a slight bit thicker on the entire cover or thicker gradually on the upper half starting between two bolts to compensate for expansion/warping UNLEs the cover is already thick enough.

the cover will be .125' and will be left thicker wherever there is a penetration

The slight increased cover thickness will help compensate for the weakness when taping for a screw hole to fill it with oil. It will be thicker in areas like this
You don't have to get fancy about the fill hole, I would put the hole in the upper half with a standard screw, 3/16 or 1/4 inch. Maybe the common bolt used on the 900 sled chain case cover?

I was thinking about a O-ring sealed plug or a simple flat cap with a gasket and 1/4" screws ( I can waterjet these dirt cheap)


I would prefer a much smaller diameter.

For reliability and a place oil would leak least is in the middle of the upper shaft unless the "common chaincase bolt" is too long. Maybe
The centrifical force of the shaft will keep oil from coming out the hole if the screw falls out. So second best place would be just above the tension adjustment on the oyher side of the case and beloow the diameter for the top gear. This should be okay for the extra lenght of the chaincase bolt.

I was thinking about a cap over the upper shaft end for or a plug under the gear but above the tensioner .




For me I don't know anyone who tries to fill a gear with a quart bottle.
You transfer fluid into something or use a funnel. yep

I use a food syringe with needle. Cost 99 cents and holds 5 ounces with a 2 inch needle included. The needle can bend some so as long as the hole is greater than a 1/16 inch I can get oil in it.

As far as the magnet goes ... the easiest and cheapest would be to tap one more hole at the bottom away from the current/flow of the oil spinning on the chain and screw in a magnetic drain bolt . A magnetic drain bolt with gasket stardard for a motorcycle cost around $7.00 retail or you could get a fancy CNC anodized one for $15.00


I hear ya don and I agree . I would love to just tap a dam hole in the side of the case and be done with it and if it where just mine that is what I would do .But you know not everybody should be drilling holes in to there chaincase.:eek:
 
DonBrown.

you bring up very valid points and I appreciate your inputs as well..

To piggy back on Kregs post...the fill plug is whats being a PINA for him to work..for those with stock cans (hopefully NONE) and the SLP cans, i think they will be the only ones with ANY issues on where the fill plug will be located...

I would like to have my cover anodized Balck, and i am sure some other guys would like to add some color or a different look as well..but i was not planning on using any heat tap on my billet cover since this is the reason for making these covers..there would be no concerns of heat warping the cover, or even heating the fluid in the case...

but i am sure if you wanted to get your cover raw finsih, i am sure its very easy to get them set aside while others where colored...

KREG..should i contact the potential buyers on their personal inputs on color vs raw material??

the fill plug does not have to be super small..i personally would like to have it about 1/2" myslef..you never know what you may have to rig up in the field to get fluid in, and a super small hole just might not work when you need to get fluid in there..IMO..just a simple plug like you see in the 06 chaincase is perfect for myslef..

a magnet would be great in the bottom..but like Kreg said..if he doesnt drill it for me..IM NOT DOING IT..lol..

hope all is well Kreg..keep doing what your doing...
 
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Wholesale oil plugs

http://www.oildrainplug.com/index.htm

kind of cheap ... http://www.pointe-products.com/?src=overture

more detail about the plug

http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/

Fancy anodized plugs ... retail

http://hausmanfamilydesign.com/

http://www.xrsonly.com/content/inde...rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=451&Itemid=77

for an endless view of anodized plugs type this into EBAY.

MAGNETIC OIL DRAIN PLUG or use
or for the short list

Billet oil plug




Standard bolts and nuts

http://www.pointe-products.com/subcategory/Standard-Cap-Screws-Threaded-Rod
 
Standard bolts which ... I forget most of the stuff on the sled is metric.

A standard bolt is coarse thread.
 
DonBrown.



I would like to have my cover anodized Balck, and i am sure some other guys would like to add some color or a different look as well..but i was not planning on using any heat tape on my billet cover since this is the reason for making these covers..there would be no concerns of heat warping the cover, or even heating the fluid in the case...

Black absorbs heat. Silver reflects heat.

A magnet will "catch" the metal shavings and is vital for the longevity of the chain and gears.

They make "self taping" threads already on some drain plugs so as long as the case is thick enough I am gonna put a magnetic drain plug on the cover.

The cover has bolts holding it on the gear case. You could use the same bolt "thread pitch" "size" "headsize" etc for the fill and drain plug so there is no additional tools required to work on the cover. Maybe there is a place where the fill and drain bolts can go on the cover and allow the same length of bolt to be used as the cover.

The most important thing is getting a metal cover ... this is all about style.

Or as they say in a "heated" church meeting ... the devil is in the details.

Could you put a thicker solid spot in the bottom "a little thicker to place a magnetic drain plus .... and put a thicker solid spot on the top to drill and tap for a fill plug?

Can someone verify where would be a good place to place them where the plugs don't get in the way or gear / chain and tensioner?

Thank you so much for doing this.
 
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The 2005 chaincase ALREADY has a drain plug in the bottom of the chaincase.

No drainplug on the cover is necessary or even desirable.

If I recall correctly... you can replace the non magnetic 2005 with a later model magnetic plug.

As for the fill plug.. this should, IMO, be mounted high on the cover and have a fairly large diameter to fill easily. A simple aluminum, socket hex pipe plug... 1/2" NPT would work great for this, be easy to machine and be cost effective.

Something like this... $8 for set of 4 plugs.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1488R/

The red color would stick out as the fill location.
sum-g1488r.jpg


If you want to get fancy... one of these
rus-660280_w_m.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-660280/

No matter how you look at it.. filling will be difficult with the muffler in place, so location is not really that important...as long as it is above the normal oil line.


With the high cost of production and stocking so many different colors... I would just leave the anodizing to the buyer... as pointed out above... the most important part is that it is metal and not prone to warping.

Besides the cost... you cant see the cover behind the muffler for the most part.
 
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As always excellent input fellas!! I appreiciate it ! I help to get a feel for what people like and what everyone is willing to pay for. I do think I will leave finish to the end user . I am still uindecided on the exact fill point details.Maybe one of you fellas would take your cover off and snap me a pic of the gear /chain assembly in place. Again thanks for the help,opinions and links i hope the result will be somethin everyone is happy with .
 
As always excellent input fellas!! I appreiciate it ! I help to get a feel for what people like and what everyone is willing to pay for. I do think I will leave finish to the end user . I am still uindecided on the exact fill point details.Maybe one of you fellas would take your cover off and snap me a pic of the gear /chain assembly in place. Again thanks for the help,opinions and links i hope the result will be somethin everyone is happy with .

Most excellent idea ... anybody taking or have pics of the gear area with the cover off?

As you know I am not wanting it anodized ... BUT maybe you can offer it to be anodized for those wanting it anodized? You probably have resources others do not. Also ... you know exactly what you are doing ... people like me know it on paper but would mess it up during the CNC process. Guess that is why I am an administrator / Program Manager and not out in the shop making things happen. If you get enough guys wanting it anodized maybe you could make a few more dollars. Just a thought.

Here is a thread with pics of the chaincase are with the cover on.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89264

The pic is Motor900 006.jpg
attachment.php
 
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The 2005 chaincase ALREADY has a drain plug in the bottom of the chaincase.


Besides the cost... you cant see the cover behind the muffler for the most part.

Is the drainplug magnetic to collect harmful metal shavings?

I guess I could replace the drain plug with a magnetic one?
 
Wow this is turning into a big PITA huh Craig? As for the fill hole in the cover, years ago Arctic Cat used a 3/4'' hole and a rubber grommet simalar to the belly pan grommet for the Gen II chassis that covered the clutch bolt hole. I see no reason why that would not work and will make it easy to fill.
 
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