Now that I slapped the new Adapt clutch on my 2020 Hardcore, how does one perform a clutch alignment? I have the Cat alignment tool for the Team primary but, I doubt it will work with the Adapt since it's so much thinner? Does anyone have the alignment information?
Adapt Clutch Alignment
- Thread starter Frostbite
- Start date
CHECKING DRIVE BELT ALIGNMENT
1. Elevate the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
safety stand high enough to raise the track off the
ground.
2. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only
enough throttle to turn the track several revolutions.
Shut engine off.
NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. Do not
apply the brake because it could produce an inaccurate
drive belt alignment condition.
3. Set the brake lever lock; then start the engine and
allow to idle. If the drive belt does not squeal with
the brake lever locked, the drive belt alignment is
correct.
4. If the drive belt squeals with the brake lever locked,
proceed to Adjusting Drive Belt Alignment.
ADJUSTING DRIVE BELT ALIGNMENT
1. Thread the Belt Removal/Installation Tool clockwise
into the driven clutch until the movable sheave opens
far enough to remove the drive belt. Remove the belt
and the tool.
0755-112
2. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven clutch to the driven shaft; then remove the stationary
sheave from the shaft.
3. To move the stationary sheave inward on the shaft,
remove alignment washers located on driven shaft.
4. To move the stationary sheave outward on the shaft,
add alignment washers to the driven shaft.
NOTE: Available shim washers from Arctic Cat are
p/n 0648-850 (0.090 in.) and (p/n 0648-849 (0.030 in.).
When adding or removing washers, the thickest
washer in the stack needs to be the most inward on
the shaft.
5. Arrange washers so drive belt does not squeal when
the brake lever is locked and the engine is at idle.
6. Shut the engine off and open the left-side access
panel; then using a feeler gauge make sure there is
approximately 0.010 mm between the stationary
sheave and the drive belt.
ZR-469
CAUTION
Make sure the drive belt is installed after the driven
clutch is completely installed and torqued to 60 ft-lb
(81.6 N-m). Failure to do this will cause damage to the
driven clutch.
! WARNING
The tips of the skis must be positioned against a wall or
similar object for safety.
! WARNING
DO NOT stand behind the snowmobile or near the rotating
track. NEVER run the track at high speed when the
track is suspended.
1. Elevate the rear of the snowmobile on a shielded
safety stand high enough to raise the track off the
ground.
2. Start the engine and accelerate slightly. Use only
enough throttle to turn the track several revolutions.
Shut engine off.
NOTE: Allow the track to coast to a stop. Do not
apply the brake because it could produce an inaccurate
drive belt alignment condition.
3. Set the brake lever lock; then start the engine and
allow to idle. If the drive belt does not squeal with
the brake lever locked, the drive belt alignment is
correct.
4. If the drive belt squeals with the brake lever locked,
proceed to Adjusting Drive Belt Alignment.
ADJUSTING DRIVE BELT ALIGNMENT
1. Thread the Belt Removal/Installation Tool clockwise
into the driven clutch until the movable sheave opens
far enough to remove the drive belt. Remove the belt
and the tool.
0755-112
2. Remove the cap screw and washer securing the
driven clutch to the driven shaft; then remove the stationary
sheave from the shaft.
3. To move the stationary sheave inward on the shaft,
remove alignment washers located on driven shaft.
4. To move the stationary sheave outward on the shaft,
add alignment washers to the driven shaft.
NOTE: Available shim washers from Arctic Cat are
p/n 0648-850 (0.090 in.) and (p/n 0648-849 (0.030 in.).
When adding or removing washers, the thickest
washer in the stack needs to be the most inward on
the shaft.
5. Arrange washers so drive belt does not squeal when
the brake lever is locked and the engine is at idle.
6. Shut the engine off and open the left-side access
panel; then using a feeler gauge make sure there is
approximately 0.010 mm between the stationary
sheave and the drive belt.
ZR-469
CAUTION
Make sure the drive belt is installed after the driven
clutch is completely installed and torqued to 60 ft-lb
(81.6 N-m). Failure to do this will cause damage to the
driven clutch.
! WARNING
The tips of the skis must be positioned against a wall or
similar object for safety.
! WARNING
DO NOT stand behind the snowmobile or near the rotating
track. NEVER run the track at high speed when the
track is suspended.
Thank you Woody67. Are these instructions specifically for the 2022 Arctic Cats with the Adapt primary clutch?
Yes out of the 2022 Arctic Cat service manual.
Thank you very much! However, it seems strange that there is no definitive offset measurement. The procedures are very generic.
Are those who retrofit an adapt primary to their sleds finding there is no offset adjustment necessary?
Are those who retrofit an adapt primary to their sleds finding there is no offset adjustment necessary?
Last edited:
2022 6000 / 8000 Series Service Manual
Wow, that was very nice! Thanks Dave!
It's exactly what Woody said. It's still puzzling to me that after all these years of shimming my secondaries to get the perfect clutch alignment, now if the belt doesn't squeal we're good to go? It must be the self adjusting roller bearings in the primary coming into play?
It's exactly what Woody said. It's still puzzling to me that after all these years of shimming my secondaries to get the perfect clutch alignment, now if the belt doesn't squeal we're good to go? It must be the self adjusting roller bearings in the primary coming into play?
Yeah, before the roller bearing primary a squealing belt at idle likely meant it was just too tight. Now that's out of the equation so a squeal from where it's sitting side to side can be used more reliably.
Team to Adapt Drive Clutch Cross Reference Chart
Good info there Dave- Thanks for digging that up.Team to Adapt Drive Clutch Cross Reference Chart
support.countrycat.com
I hope there is a new alignment tool like the one we had for the Team Boss - for the new adapt. It was quick and spot on.
It get confusing to some to remove washers behind the secondary ( Belt alignment)-
When you remove the outer half of the secondary and add/remove washers between the sheaves for proper alignment of the clutches ...
Z
That wont work with the bearing on the primary as it wants the Secondary to be closed as much as possible for the self adjustment to work properly
Doesn't matter as the outer sheave you are measuring off is the fixed one and the one that gets adjusted for offset, not belt deflection.
